V
r^
Lp
o.NoSoo^ft/.^M
^
3^
THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
BOOKS BY MRS, C. S, PEEL
WAR RATION COOKERY (EATLESS
MEAT BOOK) ~
THE LABOUR SAVING HOUSE
NOVELS:
THE HAT SHOP
MRS. BARNET-ROBES
A MRS. JONES
THE BODLEY HEAD
THE VICTORY
COOKERY BOOK
BY
Mrs. C. S. PEEL
UNTIL RECENTLY DIRECTOR OF WOMEN'S SERVICE,
MINISTRY OF FOOD; EDITOR OF LE MANAGE (''tHE
queen"); DIRECTOR OF THE "DAILY MAIL " FOOD BUREAU
AND
IWAN KRIENS
CULINARY EXPERT AND FOOD SPECIALIST ; MEMBER OF THE
GORDON ROUGE (gOLDEN) ORDER OF MERIT FOOD AND COOKERY
ASSOCIATION ; MANY DIPLOMAS OF HONOUR AND SEVERAL
MEDALS ; MEMBRE DU JURY, PARIS SALON CULINAIRE
WITH A FOREWORD
BY THE RIGHT HON. J. R. CLYNES, M.P.
FOOD CONTr'^I.LE^
LONDON JOHN LANE THE BODLEY HEAD
NEW YORK JOHN LANE COMPANY MCMXVIII
'■%\f''l^
PRINTED BY MORRISON AND GIBB LTD., EDINBURGH
A FOREWORD
BY THE RIGHT HON. J. R. CLYNES, M.P.
FOOD CONTROLLER
To shun waste, to get out of our foodstuffs
the full measure of nourishment — these
are essential principles in war-time cookery ;
and I should like to see the w^ords '^Make
do " on the walls of every kitchen in the
land. Good, careful, thrifty cooking adds
attractiveness to food, and none does it
concern more nearly than the Food Con-
troller, whose interest it is to see that food
is put to the best use. A book which helps
to that end should be widely known. Here
the good housewife (whose goodwill and good
temper have been a national asset in these
times of shadow and anxiety) is shown the
way by which to make the best of war-time
foodstuffs.
Let us remember at all our hearths the
bravery of the men who through perils of the
seas bring food to our shores. Remember-
ing that, we shall practise economy in a
thankful spirit.
CONTENTS
CHAP.
I. General Notes on Food : Its Value and
Preparation
II. Soups, Stocks, Gravy and Sauces
III. Fresh, Dried and Freshwater Fish
IV. Meat Dishes : with but Little Meat
V. Meatless Dishes — Cereals, Pulses, etc.
VI. Vegetables, Vegetable Dishes and Salads
3
17
51
87
115
145
VII. Pastry, Puddings and Sweets : with but
Little Fat or Sugar , . .175
VIII. Egg Dishes ..... 205
IX. Bread, Cakes and Scones . . .215
X. Sundries, including Pocket Lunches and
Invalid Dishes .... 227
CHAPTER I
GENERAL NOTES ON FOOD:
ITS VALUE AND PREPARATION
Fools can waste: it needs intelligence to
cook economically.
CHAPTER I
GENERAL NOTES ON FOOD:
ITS VALUE AND PREPARATION
The Art of Making Do
The object of this Cookery Book is to help
those who now have to cater and cook under
circumstances which they have not formerly
experienced. Conditions with regard to food
change almost from week to week, and the
housekeeper must take advantage of the
market, buying intelligently of what is
offered and then using it to the best ad-
vantage. The art of substituting, of '' mak-
ing do," must be largely practised ; if one
material cannot be obtained then another
must be employed. If there is but little
meat, then we must turn our attention to
those foods which best take its place ;
when fat is difficult to procure (the most
serious loss of all), we must, by taking full
advantage of fatty foods, make up for a
lack of butter, margarine and cooking fats.
4 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
Economy in Material^ Fuel and Labour
The recipes which are given in these pages
are war recipes, framed to economise
material, and, where possible, labour and
fuel; but as regards labour every cook will
realise that made dishes, such as are now
necessary, require more time and attention
than the roast joint and plain pudding style
of cookery so prevalent before the war.
Various Kinds of Waste
The recipes here given are lacking neither
in nourishment nor in attractive appear-
ance. The latter is an important point,
for food which looks nasty, and, therefore,
is not eaten with the good appetite which
leads to good digestion, is wasteful. The
word " waste " is one which has been heard
often of late, and truly we were a terribly
wasteful people, for not only did we throw
food fit for human consumption into ash-
bins and pig-tubs, but vast quantities of it
were wasted by bad or improper cooking
and by careless eating and treatment at
table. Bread was crumbled and food left
on plates. Bones, skin and gristle should
not have found their way on to plates
GENERAL NOTES ON FOOD 5
thence to be thrown away, but have come
to their rightful end in the stock-pot. In
addition, we wasted by failing to masticate
our food thoroughly, and therefore allowed
a considerable portion of it to pass out of
the body undigested. With greater know-
ledge, care and skill, and an understanding
of the fact that there is nothing to be proud
of in waste and extravagance, it may well
come to pass that we fare better though we
eat less.
Food consists of five important parts :
1. Proteid.
2. Carbohydrates.
3. Fats.
4. Minerals.
5. Water.
Proteid
Proteid is of the greatest importance. It
is essential to the growth of the young and
to the maintenance of the frame and muscle
of our bodies. It is found in animal as well
as in vegetable foods. Meat, fish, eggs,
cheese and milk are animal foods and nuts,
pulses, cereals and vegetables are vegetable
foods. The proteid contained in these foods
acts in more or less the same manner, but
6 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
naturally much of their ultimate value
depends on the method of their preparation.
All these foods contain water ; some lose
part of this in the cooking, others gain, and
some gain much more than others.
Carbohydrates and Fats
Besides the proteid, carbohydrates — ^viz.
starch and sugar — are present in most foods,
particularly in pulses and cereals ; also in
fat. These foods act on the body like
fuel on a fire ; they produce heat and
energy.
Starch and sugar have the same food value.
All starch must be changed into sugar
before it can be absorbed into the system.
Fat has 2 J times the value of starch or
sugar but is not so easily digested.
Minerals and Water
Mineral salts are present in all foods;
they are medicine to the body, keep the
blood healthy, and, with the assistance of
water, keep the system clean.
Protein Foods
The foods containing a high proportion
GENERAL NOTES ON FOOD 7
of protein are : Nuts, cheese, meat (lean),
fish, eggs, lentils, beans, peas, oatmeal,
maize and wheat.
Starch Foods
The foods containing a high proportion
of starch are : Arrowroot, cornflour, tapioca,
sago, rice, barley, wheat flour, macaroni,
oatmeal, pulses.
Fat Foods
The foods rich in fat are : Nuts, bacon,
meat, cheese, yolk of egg^ eels, salmon,
mackerel, herring, olives, maize, oatmeal.
Minerals
The foods rich in minerals are : Cereals,
vegetables and fruit.
Sugar in Vegetables
Th vegetables especially rich in sugar
are : Beetroot, parsnip and carrot.
Water
There is more water in meat and vege-
tables than in cereals, and more water in
8 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
a marrow, cucumber, turnip or cabbage
than there is in milk, although the latter is |
a fluid and the former are solids.
Soups
Soups are an economical food because
they may be made of material which could
not well be utilised in any other way. Meat
stock is not so economical as vegetable,
and, unless the meat is served with the
soup, is not so nourishing. Vegetables to-
gether with cereals are the best materials
to use for soup. To extract the flavour
from the vegetables they should always
be '' stoved '' first, then the water added,
and cereals, potatoes or pulse added to
thicken. Vegetables by themselves do not
bind a soup ; some starch substance is
necessary, and soups (except when clear)
should always be of a fairly thick con-
sistency. There is very little nourishment
in liquids, however expensive they may be,
and a clear meat stock contains no more
food value than a clear vegetable stock.
Stock made from meat and bone is ex-
pensive in the use of fuel, whereas vegetable
stock is quickly made and the vegetables
are available for other dishes after the
GENERAL NOTES ON FOOD 9
stock has been extracted — a fact which the
recipes in this book amply illustrate.
Purees
In purees (that is soups passed through a
sieve) the use of a mincing machine is ad-
vocated instead, because this method saves
labour and sieves. Purees should always
be finished by a slight additional thickening,
viz. 1 teaspoonful of corn or potato flour
mixed smoothly in milk or water, to each
quart of soup, added at the last moment
and boiled once. This will prevent the
thickening from sinking to the bottom of
the pan, which it would otherwise do.
Too many ingredients should not be used
in one soup ; the flavour should be distinct.
Four oz. of onion or leek and | lb. of vege-
tables, together with 1 oz. fat and 1 to 2 oz.
of cereals, will make 1 quart of good vege-
table soup. To finish, 1 gill of milk and
1 teaspoonful of flour must be added for
the final thickening. Soups should not
overcook ; the flavour will be spoiled and
unnecessary fuel used.
Fish
Fish is a food of high value. The most
10 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
nutritious are salmon, herring, sprats,
mackerel, eels and shad. Fish should not
be boiled. Cooked thus it loses much of its
nutriment, which is washed out into the
water. Boiled fish also loses its flavour.
The best methods of cooking fish are steam-
ing, baking and " stoving," stewing or frying.
Meat
There is about 75 per cent, of water in
meat, some of which evaporates in the cook-
ing ; therefore the meat weighs less after
cooking, but its value as a food has increased.
Cooked meat becomes a concentrated food,
which should be used as sparingly as possible.
As a nation we have hitherto eaten too
generously of meat. There is always fat
present in the meat (even when it is what is
termed lean) of a healthy animal, so that
when we cook meat a certain amount of
fat will become available for use with fatless
foods, such as vegetables, fresh or dried.
Eggs
Eggs are dear, but the dried eggs now
placed on the market are excellent food value.
They can be used in the same manner as
fresh eggs, but care must be taken not to
4
i
GENERAL NOTES ON FOOD 11
add too much water, otherwise they separate.
The correct amount is generally three times
as much water as egg by weight. If a dried
egg is needed in a hurry, soak in warm water
on the stove, and when the egg begins to
rise beat it up well over heat.
Cheese
Cheese, raw or cooked, is a concentrated
food, and should be used most carefully.
It contains a large amount of fat, about
30 per cent, more or less, so to eat any
other fat with cheese is extravagant and un-
necessary.
MUk
Milk should be used sparingly by adults ;
it is the food for children. There is about
3| per cent, fat and 3| per cent, proteid
present in milk. Some people regard milk
merely as a drink, but it is a food, and after
it has been swallowed the casein becomes
solid. Blended with well -cooked starchy
food, milk is an ideal food for the nursery.
Nuts
Nuts contain a large amount of proteid
and fat ; they should be chopped or grated
12 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
finely and mixed with other food poor in
both these properties. Slightly grilled, they
increase in flavour.
Pulses
Pulses should not be boiled in water ;
such a method is too expensive in fuel
and they absorb too much water, thereby
enormously decreasing their value as a food.
The best method is to soak them until they
have absorbed sufficient water to fully ex-
pand them, and then to steam them. In
this manner they do not absorb more than
their own weight of water, thereby retaining
a high food value. They should be eaten
with food containing fat, or cooked with
some fat, as they are deficient in that parti-
cular food. They are the substitute for meat
of the vegetarian, and with fat or the addition
of meat gravy they must now be employed
by everyone to assist in economising meat.
Some people suffer from flatulence after
eating pulses, owing to the sulphur they
contain ; if, however, potato or rice is eaten
at the same time this trouble may be avoided.
Also, many persons digest pulses which
have been sieved who find it difficult to digest
them when served whole.
GENERAL NOTES ON FOOD 13
Cereals
Cereals are amongst the cheapest foods
available. Nearly all foods, except cereals,
contain a large amount of water. Cereals
require water added in order to cook them.
The smallest amount necessary for this
purpose is the weight of the cereal. Some
cereals, however, absorb much more than
others, taking as much as four to five times
their weight in moisture.
The more moisture absorbed in the cooking
the lower the food value, for water has no
feeding value.
All cereals should be well but not over
cooked, and need to be thoroughly masticated.
New and Revised Methods of Cooking
Now that it is so necessary to economise
fuel as well as food, our methods of cooking
must be revised.
Various little known methods are sug-
gested in this book, because they are
economical of fuel and of labour as well as
of food ; and although good results were
obtained in former days from other styles
of cookery, now we can only practise those
which are economical.
14 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
Casserole cooking is highly to be recom-
mended, if for one reason only, which is, that
the food being served in the dish in which it
was cooked, washing-up is saved. For the
same reason advantage should be taken of
the many attractive fireproof dishes now on
the market.
Sweating
Sweating means cooking very slowly in a
covered pan so that the moisture in the food
is extracted and then evaporates, while it
helps to cook the food.
Fat and Oil
When oil is not procurable, use clarified
fat, or vice versa.
CHAPTER II
SOUPS, STOCKS, GRAVY AND SAUCES
»5
A bad cook wUl spoil the best materiaL
x6
CHAPTER II
SOUPS, STOCKS, GRAVY AND SAUCES
^/
^ \ Soups
In these days meat soups (unless the "pot-
au-feu or the Scotch broth, which is meat
and soup in one) cannot be permitted ;
therefore, when a clear soup is required, it
must be a clear vegetable soup (see p. 22).
All bones, gristle and skin, however, should
be used for stock in which to cook cereals
and pulses, and to make a foundation for
thick soups, gravies and sauces.
A thick soup is a good beginning to a
meatless dinner, and, provided there is a good
supply of vegetables, a clever cook will seldom
find herself unable to serve an appetising soup.
When bread is mentioned, rice or dump-
lings might in many cases take its place.
Bone Stock
If bones, raw or cooked, are available for
stock, break them small, place in cold water,
18 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
allowing about 1 quart water to 1 lb. of bone,
and for every quart of stock to be produced
add I oz. of salt. Bring to the boil and
skim, then simmer on a slow fire with the
lid on the pan until all gristle and meat
adhering to the bones falls off easily. This
may take as long as 12 hours in the case of
beef bones, 4 hours for veal bones, 2 hours
for chicken bones ; it is therefore impossible
to give one time for stock-making. Vege-
tables should be added only during the last
hour of simmering, for if they were allowed
to cook for as long as the bones their flavour
would be entirely lost, and they would
be useless for other purposes. Vegetables
added during the latter part of the cooking
flavour the stock fully, and are then still
available for the table either as they are or
in pies, salad, etc.
The correct quantities of vegetables to use
per quart of stock produced are 2 oz. carrot,
1| oz. turnip, 2 oz. onion stuck with a clove,
2 oz. leek, | oz. celery and J oz. of parsnip,
also 1 dozen peppercorns and a savoury
faggot of half a bay leaf, an equal amount |
of thyme and about | oz. of parsley stalks
tied together.
Trimmings of vegetables should be used
for stock, but only such as will not destroy
SOUPS, STOCKS, GRAVY, SAUCES 19
the stock flavour. Carrot trimmings or peel-
ings, outside pieces of celery, are good, and
even onion peeling may be used. The green
tops of celery should be carefully used, or
the flavour would overpower all the other
flavours. The peelings of turnip are useless
for stock, and the dark green of the leeks
would also destroy all other flavours. This
also applies in the preparation of vegetable
stock.
When the stock is finished the fat should
always be skimmed off first and carefully
placed in a basin with water, left until cold,
then removed and cleared for use. The
stock is then strained.
All gristle and meat must be carefully
taken off the bones, and should, when
spiced and seasoned, be used for patties,
pies and potted meat, so that nothing
whatever is wasted. There is a good deal
of food value in this gristle, and yet more
often the stock, with hardly any nutriment,
is used and the remainder is thrown away
as waste.
This stock is then available for soups and
sauces, and can be used in any of the recipes
mentioned, instead of water, to the ad-
vantage of the dish both as regards flavour
and nutriment.
20 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
Fish Stock
To make a quart of fish stock, place in
a saucepan a Httle oil or fat, then 2 oz. of
sliced onion, half a bay leaf, an equal amount
of thyme, a dozen peppercorns (crushed),
1 clove, some mace the size of a pea and
I oz. parsley stalks. Place on this 1 lb.
fish bones, sprinkled lightly with salt and
the juice of half a lemon, cover with the
lid of the pan, and cook gently until the
juice from the fish bones is extracted, then
make up the quantity of liquid to 1 quart.
Simmer for 10 to 15 minutes, then strain
the liquor, draining well to extract it all.
Place the fish bones on a dish to cool,
and if there is any fish, carefully pick it
off with a fork and use for fish cakes. One
lb. of bones sometimes gives 2 or 3 oz. of fish.
Vegetable Stock
(For Soup or for a Foundation for
Gravy or Sauce)
Materials. — Carrots, turnips, onions, leeks,
celery, cabbage (1 lb. of these vegetables
mixed), | oz. fat (if possible allow 1 oz. of
fat), J oz. salt.
SOUPS, STOCKS, GRAVY, SAUCES 21
Method. — Cut the vegetables in small
blocks about | inch square. Place the fat
in the pot, add the vegetables and salt,
cover with a lid and place over a very gentle
heat. Stew, stirring from time to time
until the vegetables become quite tender.
Remove the lid, and when the fat is clear
and a sediment has formed at the bottom
of the pan similar to the dried gravy which
forms in the tin when roasting meat, cover
the vegetables with 1 quart of water and
bring slowly to the boil. Do not stir, as
that would cloud the stock. Let the
mixture simmer for 15 minutes. Drain
the stock well so that all the liquid filters
through the vegetables. Stand for a few
minutes to allow the fat to rise, and
carefully skim it, reserving it for future
use.
The stock will be perfectly clear, not
unlike meat stock, except that it is sweeter,
which many people like, but which if neces-
sary can be counteracted by adding a
tablespoonful of Worcester sauce*
The vegetables must not be thrown away
but employed for vegetable cutlets, pies, or to
serve with meat.
.Vegetables cooked in this manner have a
far better flavour even after the stock has
22 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
been extracted, than when boiled in water
in the usual way.
Treated as described, 1 lb, of mixed vege-
tables and 1 oz. of fat provide soup and
the main part of a vegetable dish. The
stock should be used in the making of
sauces in place of meat stock.
This stock may be thickened by using
corn or potato flour mixed smoothly in
cold stock and then added by degrees to
the boiling stock.
Clear (Vegetable) Soup
This stock can be used for all clear soups
by adding whatever garnish is desired.
Vegetable Gravy
A gravy can be made by frying the
peelings of carrot and onion and a sprig of
celery together in a little fat. When nicely
coloured add a bunch of savoury herbs, cover
with water, season with salt and pepper and
simmer for 15 minutes. Strain, and if too
sweet add a little Worcester sauce or vinegar.
Brown Vegetable Sauce or Gravy
Materials. — | oz. fat, 1 oz. flour, Ij pint
SOUPS, STOCKS, GRAVY, SAUCES 23
of vegetable stock, 1 tablespoonful of
Worcester sauce.
Method. — Fry the flour in the fat until it
becomes nut-brown. Let it cool, and then
add the vegetable stock. Stir until boiling-
point is reached, then add the Worcester
sauce and simmer very gently for about
15 minutes. The fat used will rise to the
surface, and must be skimmed off and added
to the store of cooking fat.
This preparation tastes and looks like a
meat gravy.
For sauce boil the stock down until the
thickness desired is reached ; season to
taste, and it is then ready for use. When
sauces are made in this way there will be
no lumps, and straining is not necessary,
except when a skin is allowed to form after
cooking is finished.
If available a tablespoonful of tomato
puree or one or two fresh tomatoes can be
added, or the sauce may be varied by
adding a spoonful or two of chutney, mixed
pickles, mushrooms, etc.
Meat Gravy (Stoved)
Slice or shred 1 or 2 oz. of fat, place it
at the bottom of a saucepan, cover with 2 to
24 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
4 oz. sliced onion and then | lb. trimmings
of meat or slices of shin or ox cheek.
Sprinkle with salt, cover with a lid, place
over gentle heat and allow the contents to
sweat so that the meat throws out its
moisture. Continue to simmer until cooked ;
turn from time to time until the moisture
evaporates and the whole is thoroughly
brown. If the evaporation is too rapid
add from time to time a tablespoonful of
water, but not more. Add 1 pint of cold
water, bring to the boil and simmer for
15 minutes, but do not stir, otherwise the
gravy will be cloudy. Strain the gravy,
let it stand for a few minutes, then remove
all the fat, which should be added to the
cooking fat and afterwards purified ready
for further use.
This gravy is available for all sauces and
vegetable dishes. The remaining meat, with
onion and fat, can be used for pies, curries,
stews, etc.
Meat prepared in this way instead of
stewed retains its flavour and produces a
much larger amount of gravy, which can be
utilised to serve with dumplings, potatoes,
pulses or vegetables.
SOUPS, STOCKS, GRAVY, SAUCES 25
SOUPS
Pot-au-Feu made with Ox Cheek
(A Soup and a Meat Dish)
Materials. — 1 lb. ox cheek, J lb. carrots,
1 lb. cabbage, 6 oz. turnips, 4 oz. shredded
bread, 4 oz. onion, 2 oz. celery, ^ oz. salt,
2 quarts of water, 2 leeks, a pinch of pepper.
Method. — Cut the ox cheek into six slices,
place in the boiling water, add salt, and
simmer for 1 hour. Then add the carrots,
turnips, cabbage, leeks, onion and celery,
and cook until done. Remove the vege-
tables. Dish up the meat, garnish with the
best parts of the vegetables, cut the re-
mainder small and return to the liquid,
season, and add a pinch of pepper. Toast
the shredded bread in the oven and serve
separately, or add to the soup before serving,
or prepare dumplings and add them to the
soup and boil for 10 minutes.
Serve the soup first, then the meat and
vegetables, with steamed potatoes in their
jackets.
Farmers' Soup
Materials. — J lb. mixed vegetables, | lb.
sliredded potatoes, 2 oz. toasted bread,
J oz. salt, quarter-teaspoonful freshly ground
26 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
pepper, 1 teaspoonful chopped parsley, 1
quart of water, 1 oz. fat.
Method. — Place the fat in a saucepan to
melt, then shred the vegetables and add
these to the fat but do not mix. Sprinkle
lightly with salt and cover. Let the vege-
tables cook over a gentle heat until the
water contained in the vegetables flows,
then mix with a spoon. Let the mixture
evaporate until the vegetables take a very
light colour at the bottom of the saucepan,
then cover with the water and salt and boil.
Add the potatoes, and boil until the whole
is tender. Toast the shredded bread and
place in a soup tureen, adding the pepper.
Taste the soup, correct the seasoning if
necessary, and pour over the bread, adding
the chopped parsley.
Dumplings may be added to the soup
instead of bread,, or small savoury balls.
The reader will observe that the pepper is
not cooked but added just at the last.
Onion Soup
Materials. — 1 oz. fat, 4 oz. onion, \ oz.
flour, 1 quart water, 3 oz. bread, 2 oz. cheese
(grated), J oz. salt.
Method. — Shred the onion and fry in the
SOUPS, STOCKS, GRAVY, SAUCES 27
fat to a light colour. Add the flour, and bake
together until a nice brown. Add the water
and salt and cook for 15 minutes. Cut the
bread in slices | inch thick and toast ; place
these in an earthenware casserole, sprinkle
with grated cheese and pour the soup over.
(The onion may be removed and used else-
where.) Sprinkle again with grated cheese
and bake in the oven until of a golden brown.
Cabbage and Onion Soup
Materials. — J lb. cabbage, J lb. potatoes,
2 oz. onion, 1 oz. fat, 2 oz. shredded bread,
I oz. salt, 3 pints of water, pepper to taste.
Method. — Cut the onion into halves, shred
crossways and fry in the fat. Cut the
cabbage in four, remove outside leaves and
stalk, wash and drain thoroughly, shred
finely, add to the onion, and " sweat '' for
10 to 15 minutes. Add the potatoes, salt
and water and cook for 30 minutes, then
add the bread, and a little pepper if liked.
In place of the bread 1 oz. of rice can be
used, picked, washed and parboiled and
added to the soup 15 minutes before serving,
or 1 oz. vermicelli parboiled and added 5
minutes before serving, or macaroni broken
into 2-inch pieces parboiled and then cooked
for 20 minutes.
28 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
Minestroni
Materials. — | lb. vegetables, 2 oz. French
beans, 2 oz. fresh peas, 2 oz, macaroni or
rice, 2 oz. cheese, 3 pints of water, J oz.
salt, 2 tablespoonfuls of oil.
Method.— Heeit the oil in a saucepan, add
the vegetables finely shredded and fry all
together slightly. Cover with the water,
add the salt and cook till nearly done. Then
add the peas and French beans cut up and
cook until done. (In winter use haricot
beans and split-peas (soaked) and add at
the same time as the other vegetables.)
Fifteen minutes before the finish add the
macaroni or rice, or 1 oz. of each. Before
serving, skim the soup and add the following
preparation : 1 oz. raw fat bacon, scraped
as beef is scraped for beef-tea, 1 tea-
spoonful fresh herbs, pepper, a clove of
garlic.
Mix the bacon with the herbs and a pinch
of pepper and the clove of garlic. Stir
until thoroughly melted, and then serve at
once. Omit the garlic if not liked.
Freshly grated cheese is handed with the
soup, or 2 oz. may be added to the soup with
the bacon.
SOUPS, STOCKS, GRAVY, SAUCES 29
Cabbage and Potato Soup
Materials. — 4 oz. onion, 1 oz. fat, | lb.
cabbage, J lb. raw sliced potatoes, J oz. salt,
1 quart of water, 2 oz. toasted and shredded
bread.
Method. — Shred the onion and place in a
saucepan with the fat. Add the shredded
cabbage, and " sweat " all together until it
begins to set at the bottom (see recipe for
Vegetable Stock, p. 20). Then add the raw
potatoes. Cover with the w^ater, add salt,
and cook until tender (from 30 minutes to
1 hour). Season to taste, and serve with the
toasted and shredded bread.
Vegetable Puree
Materials. — | lb. vegetables, | pint of
cooked pulse or 2 oz. raw rice, 1 quart of
water, J oz. salt, 1 teaspoonful of potato or
corn flour, 1 gill of milk.
Method. — '' Sweat " the vegetables as
directed in farmers' soup (see p. 25).
When ready, add the cooked pulse or raw
rice, cover with w^ater, add salt, and cook
for 30 minutes. Drain the liquor off the
vegetables and pass the drained vegetables
and rice or pulse through a mincing-machine,
and then return to the liquid. Mix the
30 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
potato or corn flour smoothly in the milk,
bring the soup to the boil, then add the
thickened milk and bring to the boil again.
Taste and correct the seasoning, adding
a little freshly ground pepper and 1 table-
spoonful of cooked rice or any other garnish.
Mulligatawny Soup
Materials. — 4 oz. shredded onion, 1 oz.
fat, I oz. curry powder, 2 oz. rice, 1 oz.
chopped chutney, J oz. salt, 1 or 2 tomatoes,
1 small sour apple, bunch of aromatic herbs,
half a lemon, 3 or 4 crushed cardamon seeds,
1 quart of water or stock, 1 teaspoonful
of corn flour, 1 tablespoonful cooked rice for
garnish.
Method. — Fry the onion with the fat,
and as soon as the onion begins to cook add
the curry powder and fry together. Cover
with the water or stock, add the rice,
chutney, tomatoes, the apple cut finely,
cardamon seeds, herbs and salt. Cook for
30 to 40 minutes. Drain off the liquid,
pass the drained material through a mincer,
return to the liquid and thicken with the
corn flour. Taste and correct the seasoning,
add the lemon juice, and garnish with
cooked rice.
SOUPS, STOCKS, GRAVY, SAUCES 31
Salsify and Barley Soup
Materials. — 3 oz. pearl barley, 4 oz. onion,
1 oz. fat, I oz. salt, half a bundle of salsify,
half a lemon, 1 gill of milk, faggot of savoury
herbs, 1 quart of water.
Method. — Soak the barley for 24 hours,
'' Sweat " the onion and fat in a saucepan
and cover with water. Add the soaked
barley, bring to the boil, and then add the
salt and herbs. Scrape and wash the salsify,
cut into chips, and place in the soup with the
lemon juice ; cook till tender — about 1 hour
or more. Drain the liquid ; pick out 1
tablespoonful of barley and also 1 dozen
or more salsify chips, pass the remainder
through a mincing-machine and return to the
soup. Add the milk, correct the seasoning,
and put the reserved barley and salsify into
the soup.
Marrow Soup
Materials. — 4 oz. shredded onion, 1 oz.
fat, 2 oz. maize semolina, 1 lb. vegetable
marrow, 1 pint of milk, 1 pint of water, a
pinch of sugar, salt and pepper.
Method. — " Sweat " the onion in the fat,
add the vegetable marrow cut into slices,
cover and simmer till the marrow is melted.
32 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
Now cover with the milk and water, add the
sugar, salt and pepper, and maize semolina.
Cook for 30 minutes, and serve with toasted
shredded bread.
Celery Soup
Materials. — I lb. celery (outside pieces),
4 oz. onion, 12 oz. shredded potatoes, 1
quart of water, J oz. salt, ^ pint milk, 1
teaspoonful corn flour, 1 teaspoonful freshly
chopped parsley, some shredded bread.
Method. — Trim the celery by skinning the
outside with an economic vegetable knife
to remove the strings, and shred finely.
'' Sweat " it with the onion, add the potatoes,
water and salt, and cook until done. Finish
with the milk in which the corn flour has been
smoothly mixed, and simmer for a few
minutes. Correct the seasoning, add the
parsley, and serve with shredded bread.
O'Connor Soup
Materials. — A bunch of leeks, 1 oz. fat,
2 oz. arrowroot, 1 pint milk, 2 yolks of eggs,
1 teaspoonful parsley, 1 quart water, | oz.
salt, a little nutmeg and pepper.
Method. — Cut the white part of the leeks
into strips. The remainder (except the
SOUPS, STOCKS, GRAVY, SAUCES 33
green parts, which are too strong to use) boil
in the water, and when cooked, pass through
a strainer. " Sweat " the strips of leek in
the fat without colouring them, then cover
with the water in which the leeks were
boiled. Add salt. Mix the arrowroot
smoothly with the milk, add the yolks of
eggs, nutmeg and pepper. When the soup
is ready and is reduced to 1 pint, add the
thickened milk, etc.,. and stir over the fire
until creamy, but do not boil. Add the
parsley, and serve with sippets of bread.
Pea-Pod Soup
Materials. — | peck of peas, 1 oz. fat, 2
oz. leeks (or onion), 1| oz. flour, 1 pint milk,
1 quart water, 1| oz. rice or barley flour or
1 oz. tapioca, J oz. salt.
Method.— Take the pods of the peas,
remove the strings, and boil freely in salted
water until tender. Put the fat and leek
into a saucepan and stew till tender, then
add the flour, and cook for 5 minutes without
allowing it to colour. Make into a white
sauce with the milk and the pur6e made from
pea-pods by pounding in a mortar and passing
through a sieve. If there is no mortar
available, it will do to scrape the soft part
3
84 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
from the skins of the pods and strain this
through a sieve. Cook for 15 minutes,
season to taste, add a few peas and a pinch
of sugar, and bring to the correct consistency.
If too thick, add milk or stock. The
thickening may be varied by using rice flour,
barley flour or tapioca. The rice or barley
flour should be diluted with cold milk, and
then added by degrees to the boiling liquor,
then cooked for 15 to 20 minutes. Tapioca
(French or granulated) is added 10 minutes
before the soup is required. English tapioca
should be crushed fine, put through a sieve
and soaked in milk, and cooked in the soup.
Leek and Potato Soup
Materials. — 4 oz. leeks, 1 oz. fat, 12 oz.
potatoes (shredded), 1 quart water, 1 gill milk,
1 yolk of egg, dried or fresh, or omit altogether,
bunch of savoury herbs, grate of nutmeg,
salt, pepper and a little chopped parsley.
Method. — Shred the leeks and stew in fat.
Add potatoes, herbs, the water and salt.
Cook freely until done. Place the yolk of
egg in a soup tureen, add the milk and a little
grated nutmeg, and stir well, then add
the soup (slowly at first), and a pinch of
freshly ground pepper and chopped parsley.
SOUPS, STOCKS, GRAVY, SAUCES 85
Shredded toasted bread is served with the
soup.
Fish Soup (Soup and Fish Dish)
Materials. — 1 whiting, 1 mackerel, 1
sliced onion, 2 oz. finely chopped onion, 1
sprig of thyme, J bay leaf, 6 peppercorns,
1 tablespoonful oil, 1 tablespoonful salad oil,
1 lemon, 1 clove, 1 mace (size of a pea), 2
chopped tomatoes, herbs and parsley, 1
quart of water or stock, J oz. salt, pepper.
Method. — Cut the fish into pieces of 2 oz.
each. With the heads, etc., make a fish
stock as follows : Pour the oil into the
saucepan, add the onion, bay leaf, thyme,
lemon juice, peppercorns, clove, mace and
a little salt. To this add the fish trim-
mings, and '' sweat '' until a jelly is formed at
the bottom of the pan, then add the water,
a few sprigs of parsley, and cook for 20
minutes, then strain. Place the salad oil
in a saucepan, and in this fry the chopped
onion, adding the tomatoes and herbs, then
the fish. Cover with the stock, and add the
salt and a good pinch of mignonette pepper ;
boil freely for about 15 minutes. Place three
slices of toast, 1| oz. each, in a soup tureen
and pour the soup over. Serve the fish
separately to follow with boiled potatoes.
36 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
Eel Soup
Materials. — J lb. eel, 2 oz. onions, 2 oz.
rice flour, 1 gill milk, 1 quart water, J oz.
salt, 1 tablespoonful parsley and chervil,
1 tablespoonful oil, pepper, a handful of
sorrel.
Method. — Cut the eel into slices | inch
thick, chop the onions, sorrel, parsley and
chervil. Fry all together in the oil, and
when this is done add the rice flour mixed
smoothly in the milk and sufficient water
to make 1 quart. Stir until it boils, season
with salt and a little freshly ground pepper.
Simmer over gentle heat until the eel is
cooked. Serve with sippets of bread.
Mashed potato could be used instead of
rice flour to thicken.
Fish Soup (Mock Bouillabaisse)
Materials. — 1 or 2 lb. of fish, — herring,
mackerel, whiting and mussels, — 1 leek,
1 onion, toasted bread, pinch of savoury
spice or herbs, 1 clove of garlic, 1 or 2
tomatoes, 1 teaspoonful chopped parsley,
1 tablespoonful of clarified fat or oil, juice
of lemon.
Method. — Chop the leek, onion and clove
SOUPS, STOCKS, GRAVY, SAUCES 37
of garlic very finely, and fry in the fat, then
add the tomatoes (peeled and coarsely
chopped), parsley and a pinch of savoury
spice or herbs. Cut the fish into pieces
weighing about 2 to 3 oz. each — for instance,
1 herring cut into three pieces, 1 mackerel
cut into four, 1 whiting cut into three, and
a handful of mussels thoroughly cleansed.
Place all in a dish, cover with well-seasoned
fish stock and the juice of a lemon, bring
to the boil, cover with a lid, and boil freely
for 20 minutes.
Toast as many pieces of bread, cut J
inch thick, as there are persons, place these
in a soup tureen and pour the fish liquid
on the top. Serve all together, or the soup
first, followed by the fish accompanied by
potatoes. A sauce may be served with the
fish if desired.
This recipe provides a soup and a fish
dish, which looks best when served in the
casserole in which it was cooked.
Fish Mock Turtle Soup
(Made with a Cod's Head)
Materials. — Cod's head, 4 oz. onions, 4 oz.
carrot, 1 tablespoonful oil, 1 lemon, 1 tea-
spoonful basil, half-teaspoonful marjoram,
38 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
1 clove of garlic, 1 bay leaf and equal
amount thyme, 1 dozen peppercorns,
6 allspice, 1 dozen corianders, 1 bunch
parsley stalks, 3 pints water, 3 oz. baked
flour.
Method. — Slice the onions and carrot and
place in a saucepan with the garlic, oil,
bay leaf, thyme, peppercorns, allspice,
corianders and parsley stalks. Cut the
cod's head into pieces — e.g. (1) Tongue,
(2) top of the head, (3) and (4) cheeks,
(5) and (6) shoulders if left on the head.
Place the trimmings on the bed of vegetables,
and arrange the pieces of cod's head on the
top; sprinkle with salt. Add the lemon
juice, cover with a lid, and simmer until
the fish is cooked in its own liquor. Care-
fully lift the pieces of cod out of the pan
and keep warm with a little stock. Remove
the liquid of the fish, which reserve until
later, now add the water to the remaining
bones, etc., boil, then cook for 10 minutes.
Strain the liquid, make it up to 1 quart, to
which add the flour (baked dry in an oven
until it is fawn coloured), and whisk the
stock to separate the flour, which does not
lump after baking. Boil for 10 minutes.
Now add the basil and marjoram and the
reserved fish liquid, season to taste, and
SOUPS, STOCKS, GRAVY, SAUCES 39
add a pinch of cayenne pepper. Simmer
for 5 minutes more, then strain. Serve
with cut lemon.
The fish used for the making of the soup
can be served to follow the soup with a
fish sauce and potatoes, or can be used for
fish pies, patties, cakes, salads and many
other dishes. The heads of other fish can
be used equally well for the purpose, but
cod's head has a large amount of gelatine,
which of course is required to make this
kind of soup.
Fish Cream Soup (without Cream)
(Made from a Cod's Head)
Materials. — 1 cod's head, 1 quart of water,
I oz. salt, 2 oz. rice flour, | pint milk, a
little nutmeg and paprika or cayenne
pepper, garnish of rice, macaroni, vegetables,
sippets, fish balls, or parsley, etc.
Method. — Prepare the cod's head as ex-
plained for the mock turtle soup (see p. 37).
When the essence is rendered, strain it into
a basin, then cover the fish bones with the
water, season with salt, bring to the boil,
and simmer for 10 minutes. Now drain
the liquid from the fish, and be sure to drain
40 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
it well to obtain all the juice. Place the
liquid in a saucepan and bring to the boil.
Mix the rice flour in the cold milk, stir well,
then run this into the boiling liquid and
simmer for 15 to 20 minutes. Add the
reserved essence of fish, a little nutmeg
and paprika or cayenne pepper. Strain
the soup, which may be garnished as
desired.
The flesh of the head, carefully removed
after the essence was rendered, to be used
as already explained in the former recipe.
Barley Broth
Materials. — | lb. mixed vegetables, 1 oz.
fat, 3 pints water, 2 oz. pearl barley, | oz.
barley flour or potato flour, 1 gill milk, a
little coarsely chopped parsley.
Method. — Cut the vegetables into small
dice and '' sweat " in the fat until they
begin to colour. A pinch of salt and sugar
helps to produce the required flavour.
Cover with the water. Wash the barley
and add to the liquor, season to taste, and
cook for 1 hour. Thicken with the barley
flour or potato flour mixed smooth in the
milk. Finish with a little coarsely chopped
parsley.
SOUPS, STOCKS, GRAVY, SAUCES 41
SAUCES
Sauce without Fat
Note. — It may happen that a sauce is
needed when no fat can be spared. In that
case sauce may be made as follows :
Take some flour and mix it to a smooth
cream with enough cold liquid, which may be
stock or water or milk, or milk and water,
according to the sauce needed. Boil the
remainder of the liquid and add the mixed
flour, stirring until it boils. Then season,
and finish as directed.
White Sauce
Materials. — J oz. fat, § oz. flour, J pint
milk, salt and pepper, grated nutmeg.
Method. — Mix the fat with the flour cold,
add milk, salt, pepper, and a pinch of grated
nutmeg, place on a small flame without
stirring until it comes to the boil, whisk
quickly to produce at once a smooth sauce.
Made in this way the sauce does not require
straining ; there will be no lumps.
Curry Sauce
Materials. — 4 oz. onion, 1 tablespoonful
oil, 1 teaspoonful curry powder, ^ oz. flour.
42 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
juice of half a lemon, half a chopped apple,
1 teaspoonful chutney, f pint of water.
Method. — Fry the onion in the oil, and
when beginning to colour add the curry
powder and flour and fry until lightly
coloured. Add the water, lemon juice, apple
and chutney ; season and cook until | pint
is left.
Bread Sauce
Materials. — 2 oz. stale bread, | pint milk,
1 onion, salt, 1 clove, mace.
Method. — Break the bread and place in
cold milk to soak. Add a small onion into
which a clove has been stuck, a tiny piece
of mace, and a little salt. Bring to the
boil slowly, and simmer till the onion is
cooked. Remove the onion, whisk the
sauce or pass it through a sieve. Taste,
correct the seasoning, and serve very hot.
Imitation Bread Sauce
Materials. — \ gill semolina or white maize
meal, 1 pint of milk, 1 small onion stuck with
a clove, tiny piece of mace and pinch of
salt, pepper.
Method. — Soak the semolina or maize
meal in the milk, adding the onion, mace and
SOUPS, STOCKS, GRAVY, SAUCES 43
salt. Bring to the boil, and place in a
double cooker for 1 hour (having removed
the clove from the onion), pass through a
sieve. Finish with a little cayenne or pepper,
Lyonnaise Sauce
Materials. — 4 oz. onion, 1 oz. fat, § oz.
flour, 1 pint water, pinch of spice and salt,
1 tablespoonful vinegar, pinch of pepper,
half-teaspoonful chopped parsley.
Method. — Cut the onion into slices and
fry with the fat. As soon as the onion
begins to colour add the flour, stir and fry
until a fawn colour is obtained. Cover with
water ; add spice and salt, boil, and then
let simmer, stirring till the required thick-
ness is obtained, and skimming the fat as
it rises to the surface. (This fat must be
placed in a basin with water so that it can
be collected and added to the store of cooking
fat.) Add the vinegar, simmer 10 minutes
longer, and then add pepper and parsley and
serve.
Tomato Sauce
Materials.— 1 oz. onion, | lb. fresh
tomatoes, 1 tablespoonful fat or salad oil,
a small clove of garlic, water to make | pint,
I oz. flour, a pinch of spice, salt and cayenne.
44 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
Method. — Fry the onion in salad oil, add
the flour and cook for a few minutes, then
add the tomatoes, peeled and chopped (the
pips removed), spice, salt, cayenne and garlic,
and sufficient water to make | pint in all.
Cook slowly till | pint is left. Taste, and
correct the seasoning if necessary, and serve
very hot.
Chasseur Sauce
Materials. — 2 oz. onion, 2 oz. mushrooms,
1 tablespoonful oil, f pint water, | oz. baked
flour, pinch of pepper, spice and salt, 1
tablespoonful tomato puree or juice, 1
teaspoonful chopped herbs, parsley and
tarragon, a few drops lemon juice.
Method. — Chop the onion, slice the mush-
room, and fry them together in the oil.
When nicely coloured cover with the water,
add the flour (baked to a light fawn colour),
spice, salt and tomato puree or juice of
fresh tomato, and cook until | pint is left.
Add the herbs, parsley and tarragon, pinch
of freshly ground pepper and lemon juice.
Italian Sauce
Prepare a sauce as directed for Lyonnaise
(see p. 43), chopping the onion finely;
SOUPS, STOCKS, GRAVY, SAUCES 45
add 2 oz. finely chopped mushrooms and, if
available, 1 tablespoonful chopped lean ham.
Robert Sauce
Prepare a Lyonnaise sauce (p. 43), cutting
the onion in small dice instead of slices,
Wlien the sauce is finished add 1 teaspoonful
of made mustard and one or two sliced
gherkins.
Bercy Sauce
Materials. — Melted butter sauce made with
fish stock, 1 teaspoonful chopped shallot,
quarter-teaspoonful chopped parsley.
Method. — Prepare the melted butter sauce
with fish stock, in which the shallot has been
cooked. Add the parsley, make hot and
serve.
Devil Sauce
Add to a Lyonnaise sauce (p. 43) half-
teaspoonful of freshly ground pepper and a
little Worcester sauce and ketchup.
Mornay Sauce
Add to a white sauce (p. 41) 1 oz. grated
cheese and stir till dissolved.
46 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
Melted Butter Sauce
Same as white sauce, but use water in-
stead of milk, omit the nutmeg, and add a
few drops of lemon juice.
Fish Sauce
Materials. — 1 gill fish stock, 1 gill milk,
1 teaspoonful corn flour.
Method. — To the boiling fish stock or
liquor from steamed fish add the milk, in
which the corn flour has been smoothly
mixed, stirring all the time until it thickens,
but do not boil. Season to taste. Parsley,
capers, anchovy or other garnish can be
added according to requirements.
Custard Sauce
Materials. — 1 oz. either corn flour, potato
flour, arrowroot or a mixture of all, suffi-
cient egg colour to give the desired colour
{egg colouring is sold by most grocers),
1 pint boiling milk, 1 oz. sugar, flavour
essence, a pinch of salt.
Method. — Mix the flour and egg colouring
with a tablespoonful of milk until smooth.
Boil the remainder of the milk with the sugar
and pour over the flour mixture, stirring
SOUPS, STOCKS, GRAVY, SAUCES 47
all the time. Add a pinch of salt and
flavouring essence. Stir until well mixed,
and serve hot or cold.
Parsnip Sauce (Sweet)
Materials. — 1 lb. parsnip, 1 pint water,
1 oz. jam, I oz. corn flour, lemon or almond
essence, little cochineal.
Method. — Clean and bake the parsnip
(rolled in a sheet of paper) until tender ;
pass through a mincer with skin and all.
Place the parsnip in the water and boil
15 minutes, adding the jam; colour with
cochineal and strain, pressing all the liquor
out of the parsnip. Thicken this with corn
flour mixed smoothly in a little of the cooked
liquid, and add essence to flavour. After
the corn flour is added the sauce should be
simmered for 10 minutes.
Mayonnaise Sauce without Eggs
Materials. — 1 tin of condensed milk or J
pint fresh milk, 1 oz. starch, corn flour or
potato flour, a little oil, | gill strong vinegar,
half-teaspoonful mustard, salt and a dust of
cayenne pepper.
Method. — Mix the starch or flour with the
48 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
milk, bring almost *to the boil, but do not
actually boil, as that would make the starch
ropy. Add the oil if procurable — a small
quantity will do, or the sauce may be made
without it. Then add the vinegar, mustard,
salt and pepper, and mix thoroughly.
Mayonnaise Sauce without Oil
Materials. — 2 yolks of eggs, 1 tin un-
sweetened condensed milk (fresh milk
cannot be used in this recipe), vinegar as
required, half-teaspoonful mustard, salt and
cayenne pepper.
Method. — Mix the yolks of eggs with salt
and stir the milk into them as if it were
oil, then add the vinegar, mustard, salt and
pepper.
Note on Mayonnaise Sauces. — In making
mayonnaise sauces with fresh milk instead
of condensed milk, it should be made first
into a thick white sauce with flour before the
vinegar is added, otherwise it will curdle.
CHAPTER III
FRESH, DRIED AND FRESHWATER
FISH
There are but two kinds of cooking — good and bad.
so
CHAPTER III
FRESH, DRIED AND FRESHWATER
FISH
Methods of Cooking Fish
When fish is boiled in water the water
turns milky. This is caused by extracts
from the fish, which are washed out of it
into the water during the process of cooking.
The water is heavily salted to give flavour to
the fish, which is not very pronounced when
so cooked. The water, being too salt for
any other use, is then thrown away with the
extracts from the fish, and consequently
valuable food is lost. When fish is placed
on a dish and then steamed, all the juice
that is lost during the process of steaming is
received in the dish ; made into sauce it is
thus recovered and so much nutriment is
saved, and the flavour is retained. Very
little salt is required when cooking in this
manner. It is better, however, that sliced
fish, before steaming, should be placed for
52 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
a few minutes in boiling water in order to
seal it up and conserve all the nourishment
in it. This sealing also prevents the un-
attractive skim which otherwise forms on
the surface of the fish. It is generally
believed that steaming takes longer than
boiling, but that is not the case.
Baked or roast fish is excellent, particularly
those containing much fat ; but also insipid
fish such as bream, which when boiled is
tasteless, is excellent when roasted. Fresh-
water fish is admirable food, and should be
used more than has been customary, parti-
cularly pike, which in texture is not unlike
meat. It is best served in pies, stuffing,
quenelles and puddings. Perch is a most
delicate fish steamed or fried ; eels are very
rich in fat and are best stewed or fried.
Fish soup made with a variety of fish, with
potatoes and vegetables added, supplies at
once soup and fish and vegetables — a one-
dish dinner, in fact. (See Chap. II., p. 35.)
Do not despise salt herrings (Government
pickled herrings), for they are very nourish-
ing. They should be stewed or steamed.
When boiled they break up to a mash.
They must not be soaked too long — 12 to
24 hours is enough for the good quality
Scotch herrings.
FISH 58
Fish is valuable food ; the herring,
mackerel, salmon, eels are rich in fat, and
are more nutritious than white fish, irre-
spective of price. The sole and turbot are
not more nutritious than cod, haddock
or hake. They are considered finer fish,
are more in demand, and consequently the
prices are higher, but the fish of the highest
food value for money spent is the herring,
fresh or pickled.
The following recipes are chiefly foreign,
and such as cannot be found in ordinary
cookery books. They make a pleasing
change from the plain boiled (which, as has
been explained, is an extravagant method of
cooking) or fried (there is seldom enough fat
to spare for frying) generally served in this
country.
Fish Pie
(Delicious Hot or Cold)
Materials. — Fresh herring or mackerel,
1 lb. cod-fish, 2 oz. bread, 8 oz. mashed potato,
4 oz. rice flour, 4 oz. self-raising flour, a few
slices of onion, little lemon juice, spice, salt,
pepper and nutmeg, 1 gill of milk, 1 table-
spoonful salad oil.
Method. — Fillet a fresh herring or small
mackerel. Place the slices of onion in a small
54 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
saucepan, arrange the herring and roe on the
top, sprinkle with lemon juice, add a little
spice and salt, cover with a lid and '' sweat "
(that is cook gently) until done. Remove
bone and skin from the cod-fish and then
pass it through a mincer. Soak the bread in
the milk and boil it. Separate the best parts
of the herring and the roe, which reserve for
later use, and remove all bones. All the
remainder of the fish and the onion, also the
lemon juice, place with the cod and bread
panada. Season well with salt, pepper and
spice, and just a grate of nutmeg. Mix all,
and pass through the mincer once or twice,
so that the whole is perfectly mixed. Make a
paste of the mashed potato, salad oil and salt,
and mix thoroughly. Now add the rice
flour, which mix well with the potato, then
add the self-raising flour, and mix the whole
to a stiff paste. Water will only be required
if the potatoes are very dry. Be careful,
however, not to add too much, or the paste
will be doughy after baking.
Grease a raised pie-tin, line it with the
paste by placing a piece of dough in the
centre of the pie-tin and working it up against
the sides to an equal thickness all over.
Place a layer of fish preparation in the
bottom of the dish, arrange the filleted fish
FISH 55
and roe on this, cover with fish farce, and
repeat until three-quarters full.
Roll out the paste for the top, and cut
it out with a cutter to the size required.
Place it on the top, press the sides well
together, cut away excessive paste, fringe
the edges and make a hole in the centre.
Leave for 1 hour and then cook in a hot
oven for 20 minutes to bake the crust.
When this is done bake very slowly to cook
the inside. For 1 lb. filling, 1 hour in all
is required ; for a larger or smaller, pro
rata.
When the pie is to be served cold, prepare
a fish jelly by adding gelatine to a fish
stock sufficient to form a cutable jelly.
Pour this into the pie by the centre hole
when cooked, and let it set.
For patties, cut the roe and fillet up and
mix with the fish preparation which is
called '* farce."
This is, as the reader will have observed,
quite an inexpensive dish, yet it is one
often sold at a high price by first-class
caterers.
This proves that it is skill and not ex-
pensive material which is the first necessity
in the kitchen.
56 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
Fish Sausages
Use the filling for the fish pie and follow
the directions for meat sausages (see p. 91).
Fish Stuffings
1. 2 oz. of soaked and squeezed bread,
half-tablespoonful of oil or 1 oz. of chopped
suet, salt, pepper, nutmeg, half-teaspoonful
of flour, and half a dried or fresh egg, herbs
and chopped parsley. Mix and use as
directed on the recipe.
2. Fry 1 oz. of finely chopped onion or
shallot in half-tablespoonful of oil. When
fried, add 2 oz. or more of chopped mush-
rooms, fry together until dry. Now add
2 oz. of soaked and squeezed bread, salt,
pepper and a teaspoonful of parsley and
half an egg. Mix well and use as directed.
3. Fry 1 oz. of finely chopped onion or
shallot in half-tablespoonful of oil. When
fried, add 4 oz. of peeled and chopped
tomato^ also a pinhead of garlic if available.
Simmer till the moisture has evaporated,
add 2 oz. of soaked and squeezed bread,
1 teaspoonful chopped parsley and half an
egg. Mix well and use as directed.
The bread can be replaced by using 2 oz.
FISH 57
of dry pulse puree (cooked and sieved peas,
beans, etc.) and 1 oz. of mashed potato.
4. Fish prepared as for fish pie (see p. 53),
which can be blended with mushrooms and
tomatoes, prepared as in recipes 2 and 3,
or fish and bread panada, or rice panada,
thoroughly mixed together and worked to
form an elastic body.
Fish Cakes (Baked)
Materials. — Fish bones and heads, mashed
potatoes in equal quantity, a few maize
crumbs, salt, pepper and nutmeg, anchovy
sauce, batter made with oil.
Method. — When fish stock has been made
with fish bones and heads, a considerable
amount of fish remains on the bones, which,
even after the stock has been extracted,
has a large percentage of the food value
left in it. The fish should be carefully
picked with a fork, and all the skin and bone
removed. These pickings should then be
drained on a cloth to extract the moisture
and afterwards mixed with an equal quantity
of dry mashed potato, seasoned with salt,
pepper, and nutmeg, and a little anchovy
sauce added to improve the fish flavour.
The mixture should be made into balls and
68 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
then coated with a light batter (see p. 233)
and rolled in maize crumbs, pressed flat,
then placed on a baking tin and baked in
a hot oven. They should be turned when
necessary, so that they colour evenly.
Pan Fish
Materials. — | lb. cooked fish, 2 oz. onion,
1 oz. rice, 4 oz. mashed potato, 1 table-
spoonful oil or 1 oz. fat, breadcrumbs.
Method. — Shred or chop the onion and
fry to a golden colour in half the fat. Boil
the rice plain ; mix all the ingredients
together, season well, place in a gratin dish,
sprinkle with breadcrumbs and oil, and bake.
Baked Fish (Whole or FiUeted)
Materials. — ^Fish, clarified fat or oil,
anchovy or chopped capers and herbs,
potato or corn flour, a little chopped parsley,
a little salt, a little water or fish stock.
Method. — If a whole fish is baked, it is
best to stuff it (for Stuffings, see p. 56),
then place it on a greased fireproof dish,
season with salt, and baste with a little oil
or melted clarified fat. Put it in the oven
and bake, basting it from time to time.
When coloured and not quite cooked, cover
FISH 59
with a grease-proof paper or a turned-over
dish. Do not place a paper over the fish
until set, otherwise it will stick, and the
appearance of the fish will be spoiled. When
cooked, remove the fish, rinse the dish with
water or fish stock, and add a little anchovy
or chopped capers and herbs. Reduce to
the quantity required by boiling, thicken
with potato or corn flour (first mixed smoothly
in cold water), season to taste, and pour
over the fish. Make hot, and serve on the
dish in which it was cooked, sprinkled with
chopped parsley if liked. The liquid from
the fish may be used as a foundation for
various kinds of sauce, such as tomato,
mushroom, brown onion sauce, etc. etc.
Steamed Fish
Fish should never be boiled, as in that
way much valuable food is lost. It should
be steamed instead. Place it on a dish and
cover with a grease-proof paper so that all
the essence extracted from the fish is re-
ceived on the dish, and the paper prevents
condensed water from falling from the lid
of the pan on to the fish and into the liquor
which comes from it as it cooks. If the
fish is cut in slices it should always first be
60 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
dipped into boiling water for a few minutes
to seal it up. This prevents the juices from
covering the fish and coagulating on the
surface in a milky skin, thereby spoiling
the appearance of the fish, particularly
salmon, which should be a bright pinky-red
colour when cooked.
Cut fish is cooked when the spine can be
easily removed, and large joints of fish when,
on pricking with a needle, no resistance is
felt. The juice left in the dish must be
used to make the sauce, which at present,
now fat is so scarce, can be thickened with
a little corn or potato flour diluted in cold
milk or water and then added to the boiling
liquid. About | oz. per pint of liquid is
required. (For Sauces, see Chap. II.)
Baked Fillet of Fish in Batter
Materials. — Fillet of fish, frying batter.
Method. — Fillet the fish and cut in neat
strips, season with salt, coat with stiff
frying batter (see p. 234). Drain well, place
on a greased baking-tin, and bake in a hot
oven until brown.
The same can be crumbed with maize
crumbs (see p. 231) and baked to a golden
brown.
FISH 61
Whiting or other Fish au Gratin
Materials. — Whiting or other filleted fish,
2 oz, chopped mushrooms, 1 oz. chopped
onion, 1 dessertspoonful of oil, half-teaspoon-
ful chopped herbs or parsley, 1 gill of brown
sauce (see p. 22), salt and pepper, a few
drops of lemon juice, a few breadcrumbs.
Method. — Fry the onion in the oil, add
the mushrooms, chopped herbs or parsley,
and also the brown sauce ; season to taste.
Clean the whiting and fillet the fish. Put 1
tablespoonful of sauce at the bottom of a
fireproof dish, place the fish in it, sprinkle
with salt and a few drops of lemon juice,
cover with the sauce, scatter lightly with
crumbs, and bake for about 20 minutes,
until the fish is cooked. Sprinkle with
chopped parsley and a few drops of lemon
juice.
Mackerel and Rice
Materials. — 1 mackerel, 1 tablespoonful of
oil, 1 teaspoonful of chopped onion, 1
teaspoonful of chopped herbs, 1 teaspoonful
of paprika pepper, 1 or 2 tomatoes, juice of
half a lemon, | pint of rice, f pint of fish
stock.
Method. — Clean the mackerel and cut
62 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
it into pieces. Fry them in the oil, and
add to this the onion, herbs, tomatoes
(chopped finely), the paprika and lemon
juice and a few sprigs of saffron, if liked.
Then add the rice, and cover with f pint of
fish stock, or more, according to the quality
of rice, for the amount of liquid which rice
will absorb depends upon the kind of rice
used. Season well, bring to the boil, and
cook for 20 minutes.
Any other fish may be used, and curry
powder added instead of paprika.
Halibut Portugaise
Materials. — Slice of halibut, 1 inch thick,
little chopped parsley, salt and pepper, juice
of a lemon, 1 tomato, little finely chopped
onion, 2 teaspoonfuls fish stock or water.
Method. — Season the halibut with salt
and pepper and the juice of half a lemon.
Let it stand for half an hour, then dip it
into boiling water to set, and place it in a
greased dish. Add the tomato (the pips
and skin removed and the flesh cut small),
onion, parsley, the remaining juice of the
lemon and the fish stock or water. Cover
with a lid, and cook in the oven until done,
allowing about 20 minutes. Thicken the
FISH 68
gravy, and sprinkle the dish with chopped
parsley before serving.
Salmon Flamande
Materials. — 1 lb. salmon, | oz. carrot, ^ oz.
parsnip, | oz. celery, 1 oz. onion, | oz. clarified
fat, a pinch of salt and pepper, juice of half a
lemon, 2 tablespoonfuls of water or stock.
Method. — Shred the carrot, parsnip, celery
and onion into strips, and mix with the
clarified fat and a pinch of salt. Cover
and stew gently until tender. Season the
salmon with salt and pepper half an hour
before required for cooking, and dip into
boiling water for a few minutes. Lay on
the bed of vegetables, adding the juice of
half a lemon and the water or stock. Cover
with a paper and cook until done, allowing
about 20 minutes. Drain the salmon, and
remove the skin and centre bone — ^the skin
is apt to be oily, and the dish looks more
appetising without it. Dish up the fish
sprinkled with chopped parsley, and pour
the vegetables and liquor over.
Grey Mullet
Materials. — Sharp sauce (see p. 43),
mullet, little salt, little vinegar.
64 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
Method. — Place on a plate, season with
salt, and baste with vinegar, then steam
in the usual way. Serve with a sharp sauce.
Filleted Herrings and Rice (Cold)
Materials. — ^A few fresh herrings, little
chopped onion and parsley, 1 tablespoonful
of vinegar to each herring, equal quantity
of water, a few crushed peppercorns and all-
spice, fish-bone stock (see p. 20), 1 table-
spoonful of oil, 1 gill of rice, 1 chopped
tomato, mayonnaise sauce (see p. 47).
Method. — Fillet the fresh herrings, reserve
the bones. Season, and add a little chopped
onion and parsley, roll up and tie with
string. Boil for each herring 1 table-
spoonful of vinegar and an equal quantity
of water ; season, add the peppercorns and
a little allspice, and pour over the herrings,
and cook slowly until done. Let them cool
in the liquor. Make a stock with the fish
bones. Fry 1 oz. of chopped onion in the
oil, then add the rice (which has been heated
in the oil), tomato, and, if possible, a few
sprigs of saffron. Cover with one and a half
times as much stock, well seasoned, close
the pan as tightly as possible, and cook for
20 minutes. When done add the liquor in
FISH 65
which the herrings were boiled. Toss, and
allow to cool. Make a border of the rice,
place the herrings in the centre, and serve
with a mayonnaise sauce.
Soused Herrings or Mackerel (Hot or Cold)
Materials. — Herrings or mackerel, a few
slices of onion to each fish, 1 clove, 6 pepper-
corns, 2 allspice, a little salt, vinegar and
water.
Method. — Place the cleaned fish in a dish
with the onion, clove, peppercorns, allspice
and salt, and then to half the height of the
fish add half vinegar and water. Cover
with a paper, and bake in a moderate oven
for from 15 to 30 minutes.
Herring Olives Ragout
Materials. — 1 pickled herring filleted (2),
a little bread stuffing, 1 oz. carrot, 1 oz.
onion, 1 tablespoonful of oil, J pint of water,
1 dozen small potatoes (olive size), a little
salt and spice, a little chopped parsley.
Method. — Soak the herring for 12 hours.
It is best to fillet the herring before soaking,
otherwise it is liable to go bad in the bone,
and if red, a piece of alum the size of a pea
5
66 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
may be added to whiten the fish, but this
should be well washed away before cooking,
by changing the water frequently. Drain
the herring on a cloth, remove all the bones
and the skin if desired. The skin holds the
fish together, so it is preferable to leave it on.
Place the herring fillets with the skin side
upward and the point toward you. Fill the
centre with bread stuffing, and roll the fillets
up so as to enclose the stuffing. Skewer or tie
with string. Cut the carrot and onion into
small pieces, fry lightly in the oil, and when
fried, add the water. Cook freely until the
vegetables are nearly done, then add the
potatoes ; season lightly with salt and a pinch
of spice, and cook furtheruntil the potatoes are
half cooked. Now place the stuffed fillets of
herring on the top of the ragout of vegetables,
cover with a lid and stew till the fillets are
cooked — about 15 minutes. Dish up the
fillets, remove the string or skewers, correct
the seasoning and pour the ragout over the
fillets. See that the potatoes are all round
the fish. Sprinkle with chopped parsley.
Herring Olives with Rice
Materials. — Some herring fillets (the stuffed
fillets are called olives), 1 oz. finely chopped
FISH 67
onion, half-tablespoonful of salad oil, 1 gill
of rice, | pint of fish stock, tomato sauce.
Method. — Fry the onion in the salad oil,
add the rice, and stir to cover each grain with
fat. Now add the fish stock, season to taste,
and place the herring olives, prepared as for
olives ragout, in the liquid, bring to the boil,
cover with a lid and simmer for 20 to 25
minutes. Remove the olives, take out the
skewers, dish up the rice and place the
olives on top. Pour tomato sauce round,
and a pinch of saffron may be added to the
rice.
When tomatoes are available, a peeled and
chopped tomato may also be added.
Baked Herring Olives (or Stuffed Fillets)
Materials. — Herring olives prepared as for
the pickled herring ragout, a little batter,
a few maize crumbs, a little fish sauce (see
p. 46) or tomato sauce, sharp sauce, an-
chovy sauce (see pp. 43 and 45) or any other
desired.
Method. — Steam the herring olives, coat
them with batter and maize crumbs, place in
a greased dish and bake in a hot oven.
When nicely coloured, dish up and serve
with the sauce.
68 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
Soused Herrings (Fresh or Salted)
Materials. — Fresh herrings, 1 tablespoonful
of vinegar for each herring, an equal quantity
of water, a few peppercorns, a little salt and
allspice, a few slices of onion, a little oil.
Method. — Remove the bone of the herring
by opening the back of the fish, and also
remove the head. Roll the fish up and
skewer to hold in shape. Place in a dish
and add the vinegar, water, salt, peppercorns,
allspice, onion and a slice of lemon (if avail-
able). Baste very sparingly with oil, cover
with paper and bake slowly for 20 to 30
minutes. Let cool in the gravy, and when
cold turn over.
If using Government pickled herrings soak
as described on p. 52 (recipe for Herring
Olives Ragout) and do not add salt.
Paupiettes of Herring and Tomato Sauce
Materials. — 2 herrings, a little salt, pepper
and nutmeg, 2 oz. bread, half-teaspoonful
chopped herbs, 1| oz. fat, 3 tomatoes peeled
and chopped, 1 egg (or 1 teaspoonful of flour
to take the place of the egg), a little fish
stock, ,1 onion, 1 teaspoonful of flour, a little
chopped parsley.
FISH 69
Method. — Fillet the herrings and remove
all bones, flatten slightly, remove the skin
and season with pepper and salt. Soak the
bread, squeeze dry and mix with the herbs,
1 tomato, salt, pepper, nutmeg and egg (or
a teaspoonful of flour). Place the fish on the
table, skin side upwards, divide the stuffing
to the four fillets and roll up. Skewer and
cook slowly for 15 minutes in a little fish
stock made with the bones (see p. 20).
Cut the onion into small dice and fry in 1 oz.
fat or a tablespoonful of oil, then add the
remaining tomatoes and fish stock, in which
the herring paupiettes were cooked, and
cook until 1 gill is left. Thicken with a
little more fat and flour mixed — 1 teaspoonful
of each ; boil, season, remove the skewer
from the fish and dish up. Sauce over and
sprinkle with chopped parsley.
Dutch Herring Salad
Materials. — Fillets of herring, 1 cold
potato, 1 apple, a few gherkins, beetroot
and onions in equal amounts, 1 or 2 spoonfuls
of mustard, a little oil and vinegar, hard-
boiled eggs.
Method. — Cut the potato into dice, to-
gether with the apple, gherkins, beetroot.
70 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
onion all well seasoned, and then mix in the
mustard dressing made as follows : Place
the mustard in a basin and work this up with
the oil and vinegar to form a creamy sauce
like a mayonnaise ; then put in the other
ingredients and mix well. Arrange this
salad on an oblong-shaped dish and place
fillets of herring over it. Use hard-boiled
eggs and gherkins cut small to garnish.
Where oil is not available, see mayonnaise
without oil, p. 48.
Herring Fillets with Vegetables
Materials. — 1 filleted fresh herring, 1 oz.
carrot, | oz. onion, 1 teaspoonful of salad
oil, 1 gill fish stock, juice of half a lemon,
a little salt and pepper, a little chopped
parsley.
Method. — Slice the carrot, cut the onion
in rings, and place in a small saucepan with
the salad oil. Let this '' sweat " for a few
minutes, but not fry ; add the fish stock and
simmer till the vegetables are cooked, and
then add the lemon juice. Fillet the herring,
remove bones and arrange in a gratin dish,
place the roe on the top, one on each fillet ;
season with salt and a little pepper. Arrange
the carrot and onion alternately on the top
FISH 71
of the roe and herring, then pour the liquid
over all. Place in a moderate oven for 10
to 15 minutes, sprinkle with chopped parsley,
then serve without sauce, for the liquid is
sufficient, and there should be no more left
than is required to moisten the fish. If
desired a border of cooked slices of potato
could be placed round the herrings before
the liquid is added, or plain boiled potatoes
should be served with the fish.
Filleted Gurnet and Rice Portugaise
Materials. — The fillets of 2 gurnets,
1 chopped onion, 1 chopped tomato, a little
chopped parsley, a bunch of herbs, a little
oil, 1 gill of rice (carefully picked over),
1 tablespoonful of vinegar or lemon juice,
salt and pepper, a little water.
Method. — Fry the onion in a little oil,
add the tomato, parsley and herbs. Place
the fillets of gurnet, preferably small ones,
on this bed of vegetables, and cover with
water and either vinegar or lemon juice.
Season with salt and pepper, and steam the
fish until nearly cooked. Remove the fillets
and stir the rice into the liquid, which
should cover it well. Rearrange the fillets
on the top, cover with a paper and the lid,
72 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
and cook for 20 minutes. Take the fillets
carefully out, remove the herbs, and lightly
mix the rice with a fork, and then dish up,
arranging the fillets neatly on the top.
Baked Filleted Whiting with Potatoes
Materials. — Fillets of whiting, a few sliced
cooked potatoes, a little salt, pepper and
nutmeg, juice of a lemon, melted butter
sauce (see p. 46), a little oil or fat, a little
chopped parsley.
Method. — Grease a gratin dish, place the
fillets of whiting in the centre with the skin
side downwards, arrange the potatoes all
round, and season with salt, pepper and
nutmeg. Add the lemon juice and cover
the whole with a melted butter sauce.
Sprinkle with the oil or melted fat, and bake
in the oven for about 20 minutes ; then add
the parsley, and serve in the dish in which it
was cooked.
How to Cook Perch
Materials. — 1 perch, a little onion, parsnip
and parsley, salt, a little clarified fat, and
water.
Method. — Clean the perch, open on one
side across the body and pass the roe through
FISH 73
this. Cut some Julienne strips of onion,
parsnip and parsley stalk, and fry in a
little fat without colouring them. Add
sufficient water to half cover the fish, and
salt at the rate of ^ oz. per quart. Bring
the water to the boil, and then add the fish.
Boil fast at first, then, when nearly cooked,
slower. (A perch of 1 lb. takes 20 minutes.)
Dish up the fish, reduce the liquor until
there is sufficient left to moisten the fish,
then pour this over and serve.
Golden Bream
Materials. — 1 bream, a little chopped
onion and parsley, a little oil, 1 tomato,
1 teaspoonful of anchovy sauce, 1 or 2
finely chopped mushrooms, the juice of a
lemon, a little water, 1 oz. fat, 1 teaspoonful
of flour.
Method. — Scale and fillet the bream, season
the fillets, sprinkle with the onion and
parsley and baste with oil. Let the fish
stand for an hour or two to let the seasoning
soak in thoroughly. Now pour the oil
from the fish into a baking dish, preferably
of stoneware, and when hot pass the fillets
through this oil both sides, leaving them in
it with the skin side upwards. Sprinkle
74 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
with the tomato and mushrooms, the lemon
juice and a little water, and bake in the
oven, basting from time to time. When
done, mix the fat, flour and anchovy sauce
with the gravy and baste again, then put
back in the oven for a few minutes, and
serve in the dish. If the gravy evaporates
too quickly, add a little water.
Roast Bream with Tomato Sauce
Materials. — 1 bream, 2 oz. bread, oil for
basting, ^ oz. flour, a pinch of thyme, nut-
meg, salt and pepper, 2 peeled and chopped
onions, 3 peeled and chopped tomatoes,
1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley, 1 teaspoon-
ful of anchovy essence, 1 egg, | pint of water.
Method. — Soak the bread, squeeze all the
water out ; add to this 1 teaspoonful of
chopped and fried onion and an equal
quantity of parsley, a pinch of thyme,
nutmeg, salt and pepper, also 1 peeled and
chopped tomato. Bind this with the egg
and stuff the bream. Sew the belly up.
Place in a greased dish or tin, season with
salt and baste with oil ; then bake carefully
for about 30 minutes, basting from time to
time. When done, dish the fish up, and re-
move the string. In the tin fry 1 chopped
FISH 75
onion, 2 peeled and chopped tomatoes, and
the J pint of water. Cook until all the dried
gravy from the bottom of the dish has
loosened- Add the anchovy essence, mix
the flour with the remaining | oz. of fat,
and add this to the sauce. Stir till blended,
and give only one boil. Correct the season-
ing if necessary, pour over the fish, and
sprinkle with chopped parsley. If any
liquor has run out of the fish into the dish,
this must be added to the sauce and stirred
well in before the sauce is put over the dish.
Baked Bream with Devilled Mock Butter
Materials. — 1 sea-water or fresh-water
bream, a little salt, pepper and oil, 1 onion,
a little made mustard, 1 tomato, 1 tea-
spoonful of Worcester sauce, 1 teaspoon-
ful of mushroom ketchup, 1 teaspoonful
of anchovy essence, a little chopped
parsley.
Method. — Season the bream with salt and
pepper and baste with oil. Let lie in a
dish which will stand the heat of the oven
for 1 hour, so that the salt may penetrate
right through the fish. Place in the oven,
and bake carefully, basting from time to
time. Prepare, in the meantime, the follow-
76 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
ing mock butter : Chop the onion finely
and cook in a little oil, add to this the
tomato finely chopped, and cook until nearly
dry, then add the Worcester sauce, mush-
room ketchup, a little made mustard, and
the anchovy sauce, or a chopped Gorgona
anchovy, and a dust of freshly milled pepper.
Mix this, and when the fish is nearly done
pour the mixture over it, and baste a few
minutes until the fish is cooked. Sprinkle
with chopped parsley, and serve in the dish
in which it is baked. The best accompani-
ment to this fish is a boiled potato.
Eels with Mock Cream Sauce
Materials. — ^A few onions, 1 eel cut in
pieces, a little stock, seasoning and spice, a
little oil and grated horse-radish, 1 table-
spoonful of vinegar, a little unsweetened
condensed milk.
Method. —Shred or chop the onions and
simmer in oil ; add the eel, seasoning and
spice, and a little stock. Cook until the eel
is done, then dish up. Add to the liquor
the vinegar and horse-radish without further
cooking, which would destroy the horse-
radish flavour. Then warm up, and add
sufficient unsweetened condensed milk to
FISH 77
make enough sauce to cover the eel. Correct
the seasoning and serve hot or cold.
Eels (Russian Style)
Materials. — 1 eel, a few onions, 1 sliced
carrot, a little oil, seasoning and aromatic
herbs, J lb. tomatoes to each pound of eel,
1 tablespoonful of vinegar.
Method.— Shred the onions and carrot
and simmer together in the oil. Add the
eel cut into pieces of about 2 inches long,
the fins having been carefully trimmed, and
simmer all together, then add the seasoning,
aromatic herbs and the tomatoes, peeled
and chopped finely (the seeds removed).
When the vegetable is cooked add the
vinegar, and simmer for about 15 minutes
longer. If the dish is desired cold, serve
garnished with gherkins.
Filleted Sole with Cucumber
Materials.— 1 filleted sole (or any other
white fish), a little salt, 1 egg, a few bread-
crumbs, 1 cucumber, a little oil, lemon
juice, a little coarsely-chopped parsley.
Method. — Season the filleted sole with
salt, brush over with egg and pass through
78 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
the breadcrumbs. Peel and slice the
cucumber as thick as half a crown. Heat
some oil in a frying-pan and fry the fillets
to a light golden colour both sides ; then re-
move, and fry the cucumber also. Dish up the
fish and arrange the cucumber on the fillets,
one overlapping the other. Sprinkle with
parsley ; if necessary, add a little fat to what
is already in the frying-pan, brown it, then
add the lemon juice and pour over the fish.
Creamed Crab^ Lobster or Salmon (without
Cream)
Materials. — Fresh or tinned crab, a small
onion, | oz. fat, about 1 gill of milk, a few
drops of lemon juice, 1 dessertspoonful of
flour, half-teaspoonful of paprika pepper,
quarter-teaspoonful of mustard, a little salt,
a few drops of lemon juice, hot toast.
Method. — Chop the onion finely and fry
lightly in the fat ; add the flour and stir
until thoroughly mixed and lightly coloured.
Add the pepper and mustard. Stir into this
sufficient milk to obtain a thick sauce ; add
twice as much crab meat as there is sauce,
well drain, season with salt, and simmer till
thoroughly hot. Add the lemon juice and
serve on hot toast.
FISH 79
Fresh or tinned lobster or tinned salmon
is excellent served in like manner.
Kipper Salad (Cold)
Materials.— 1 filleted kipper, 1 lettuce,
some potato salad (see p. 165), a few slices
of beetroot, a few hard-boiled eggs, a little
chopped herbs, pepper and salad dressing,
a little chopped onion, 1 tablespoonful of
Tarragon vinegar.
Method. — Remove the skin and bones of
the kipper, place the fillets in an earthenware
dish and add the onion, pepper and vinegar.
Cover with paper and put in an oven for 10
minutes, then let cool in the liquor. Shred
the lettuce and dress with a plain dressing.
Make a border with this, and place the
potato salad made with a cream dressing
in the centre. Put the fillets of kipper on
top, sprinkle with chopped herbs and place
quarters of hard-boiled eggs and slices of
beetroot round.
Mussels and Rice
Materials. — 1 pint of mussels, 1 gill of
raw rice, 1 oz. chopped onion, 1 table-
spoonful of oil.
Method. — When the mussels are scraped
80 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
and well washed, place them in a sauce-
pan over the fire without adding any
moisture. Cover the pan and leave it until
the mussel shells open. Remove the shells
and cut out the suckers (hair-like substance).
Fry the onion in the oil, add the rice, mix
well. Then cover with the mussel stock
(the liquid which by cooking has been
extracted from the mussels), adding water
if necessary, and cook as directed for herring
olives with rice (p. 66).
How to Use a Tin of Salmon (12 oz.)
Open the tin at the side instead of the
top so that the whole contents can slide
out of the tin. Place it on a plate ; care-
fully remove skin and bone by splitting
the salmon ; reserve the best pieces for
au gratiUj the next best for salad or scallops,
the smaller pieces for cakes and the re-
mainder for sandwiches.
Cheese is an important part of these
dishes, but must be omitted when it is scarce.
(1) Salmon Baked (for three Persons)
Materials. — Best pieces of salmon, white
sauce (p. 41), pepper, a few drops of
FISH 81
lemon juice, a little grated cheese or
crumbs.
Method. — Place the pieces of salmon in a
fireproof dish, previously lined with white
sauce. Add pepper to taste and lemon
juice, cover with white sauce and sprinkle
with grated cheese, and bake in a hot oven
until brown.
The dish should be placed in another
containing water while cooking.
(2) Scalloped Salmon (for two Persons)
Materials. — Salmon, mashed potatoes, a
little oil, white sauce (p. 41), cheese or
breadcrumbs, salt to taste.
Method. — Make a border of mashed
potatoes on a scallop shell by using a
forcing bag and tube. Fill the centre with
salmon and white sauce mixed, well season,
sprinkle the fish with crumbs or cheese,
baste with oil, then bake to a nice brown
colour.
The shells should be placed in such a
position that the sauce cannot run over.
The best method is to place the shell in a
small heap of salt, which suffers nothing by
being heated.
82 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
(3) Salmon Salad (for two Persons)
Materials. — ^A little green salad, mustard
and cress, chopped parsley and salad dress-
ing, potato salad or pulse, hard-boiled eggs,
some pieces of salmon, a little vinegar and
beetroot, mayonnaise sauce (see p. 47).
Method. — Place the green salad, mustard
and cress, potato salad or pulse with the
salmon, previously seasoned and basted
with vinegar. Cover with mayonnaise sauce
and garnish with hard-boiled egg, beetroot
and chopped parsley.
(4) Salmon Cakes (for two or three Persons)
Ma/mai^. —Trimmings of salmon, an
equal amount of cold polenta (p. 121), 1 egg,
a little salt, pepper, nutmeg, flour or crumbs,
and fat.
Method. — ^Mix the salmon, previously
drained on a cloth, with the cold polenta,
to which add the egg, salt, pepper and nut-
meg to taste (no parsley). When well mixed
shape into cakes, flour or crumb them.
Place on a baking-sheet, brush over with fat,
and bake in a hot oven until brown. Turn
over if necessary.
FISH 83
(5) Sandwich Filling (for twelve Square
Sandwiches)
Materials. — Salmon skins and bones, 1 oz.
fat, a little cooked dry rice and cochineal,
salt, cayenne and anchovy essence.
Method. — Crush all skins and bones finely,
pass through a mincer three times, with an
equal quantity of cooked dry rice. Add the
fat, salt, cayenne, anchovy essence and a few
drops of cochineal. Pass through a sieve,
place in a basin and use for sandwiches.
Fish in Batter
Cold boiled fish freed of skins and bones
and flaked may be mixed with Yorkshire
pudding and baked in a fireproof dish.
The batter may be made with or without
eggs.
CHAPTER IV
MEAT DISHES:
WITH BUT LITTLE MEAT
It is skill, not expensive material, which is
the first necessity in the kitchen.
CHAPTER IV
MEAT DISHES :
WITH BUT LITTLE MEAT
Methods of Cooking Meat
Large joints are now obtainable only by
large families and in restaurants and in-
stitutions. As a rule, small pieces of meat
have to be dealt with, and the housewife
is never sure what part of an animal will
be available. She must be content to take
what she can get, and learn to cook her
ration as economically as possible. Frying is
an economical method of cooking, for any
juices which escape are reclaimed when the
gravy is made, and the process is saving
of fuel. Only tender meat, of course, can
be cooked in this way, such as steaks, fillet
steak, sirloin, ribs, buttock, thick flank
and certain parts of the shoulder. Cooks
should realise that meat thickly covered
by sinews is usually very tender ; leg of
beef when scraped from between the sinews
88 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
is very tender, and when minced and shaped
into small steaks is more tender than rump
steak. Other parts are better for stewing
or stoving. Braising is not recommended,
as this is an expensive method of cooking
and needs gelatinous stock, to produce
which much fuel is required. When stewing
or stoving meat cut it into portions ; natur-
ally, then, the cooking takes less time, and the
meat will be more juicy than when larger
pieces are cooked. All meat produces fat,
however lean it may appear, and this should
be carefully preserved, for it will be required
when cooking vegetables (fresh or dried),
all of which are deficient in fat. When
stock is made with meat, as for the French
pot-aU'feu, the meat should be placed in
boiling water to seal it up, thus preserving
the flavour. Cooks should realise that the
flavour of meat is soon lost by over-cooking,
and consequently if the fluid extracts are
allowed to boil freely the essential meaty
flavour is destroyed.
Casserole cooking, or " stoving " by gentle
heat, is most suitable for tough meat, and
requires very little or no water. As the
meat becomes warm its own moisture runs
freely, and after a little while the meat will
practically swim in liquid. The flesh then
MEAT DISHES 89
is cooked in its own juice, the fat is dissolved,
and when the dish is done, if a little water
is added, there will be as much gravy as re-
quired. The fat skimmed off is of course
reserved for other purposes. Cooked in
this manner, half a pound of lean meat from
whatever part of the animal will produce
1 pint of good gravy. As the strongest
gravy contains only about 5 per cent, of
solid extractions, there must remain in the
cooked meat the remainder of its original
food value. When stock is made from
bones, there remains a certain amount of
gristle cooked tender, and also a small
portion of meat. If carefully collected, very
nice made dishes, such as croquettes, rissoles,
patties, potato meat cakes and sausages
may be produced without much additional
expense. It should also be known that
bones contain fat which, when stock is made,
rises to the surface, so that bones produce
fat, stock and gristle, each of which must
be used to the fullest advantage. Sausages
can be made with any kind of meat trim-
mings— liver, fat, meat, crusts of bread,
beans, peas, etc. The materials should be
passed through the mincing-machine and
then fried or baked. They may be crumbed
or rolled in paste, dipped in batter and then
90 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
baked. No skins are required then, and
fat for frying becomes superfluous. In mak-
ing sausages the bread should not be squeezed
dry, but simply drained so that equal
weight of water and bread is used — 8 oz.
of meat plus 4 oz. soaked bread — ^that is, 4 oz.
bread and 4 oz. water — make a better sausage
than that generally supplied by the butcher.
Instead of bread, biscuit meal (see p. 235)
may be used, or cooked porridge, and part of
the meat may be cooked meat. For rissoles,
rice or other cereal, or potato may be added,
and in this manner a large variety of econ-
omical and nourishing dishes are produced.
When making meat pies the above remarks
are also applicable. If, from lack of meat, a
feeling of hunger is experienced, cheese or
nuts are the items which should be added
in small proportions to the diet. Meat is
concentrated food, and it is therefore good
for the general health of the country that it
should be used as sparingly as possible ; but
as the desire for the quantity of meat to
which most people have been accustomed
must be satisfied, it should be served in such
a manner as to supply the necessary bulk.
The following recipes are arranged so that
substantial dishes result, although they con-
tain but little meat.
MEAT DISHES 91
Sausages Made with Cooked Meat
Materials. — Remains of cooked meat (fat,
lean and gristle), equal amount of crumbs,
^gg (1 ^gg to 1 lb.) or 1 oz. flour, a little
fried chopped onion, a few drops of vinegar.
Method. — Mince the meat, add the crumbs,
moisten with egg, or instead of egg 1 oz.
of flour; season well, and mix thoroughly.
Finish as directed for fresh sausages (p. 91).
The onion and vinegar help to bring back
the flavour which the meat has lost.
Sausages can also be made by using half
fresh and half cooked meat.
Sausage Rolls
Materials. — Sausage meat, short paste.
Method. — Roll out some short paste (see
p. 183) and cut into oblong pieces of the
size desired. Brush over with cold water,
place in the centre across a roll of sausage
meat and fold over with the paste so that
the ends meet. Press down the edges,
prick the top once or twice, and bake in an
oven hot at first and then cooled.
Fresh Meat Sausage
Materials. — 6 oz. of lean meat, 2 oz. fat,
92 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
4 oz. crusts of bread, salt and pepper,
nutmeg and spice, a little flour.
Method. — Mix the fat with the meat,
season with salt, pepper, nutmeg and spice,
if liked, and pass through a mincing-machine.
Soak the bread thoroughly in cold water and
then drain, but do not squeeze the water
out. When drained, mix with the meat and
pass again through the mincer, then work
by hand or with a wooden spoon until
thoroughly mixed. Leave for a time and
then shape into sausages, flouring the hands
and board. Fry slowly in shallow fat until
brown, or bake in the oven. A coating of
batter made of flour and water and then
a good dusting of crumbs improves their
appearance and size.
A sausage should always be left after
mixing before it is cooked, otherwise it
shrinks too much.
FIVE DISHES FROM ONE RABBIT, EACH DISH FOR
TWO PERSONS
(1) Fillets of Rabbit with White Sauce
en Casserole
Materials. — Fillets of rabbit (2), some
white sauce (see p. 41), vegetables and
potatoes, pepper and salt.
MEAT DISHES 93
Method. — Cut the fillets from the back,
flatten slightly, season with salt, a pinch of
pepper, and brush over with fat. Place in
a casserole, cover it, and cook the fillets on
both sides without colouring, which will take
about 5 minutes. Dish up, cover with sauce,
and garnish with vegetables and potatoes.
The above may be egged, crumbed and
fried, or grilled and served with salad.
(2) Quenelles of Rabbit (One Leg)
Materials. — 1 leg of rabbit, J oz. fat, 2 oz.
bread panada (see p. 235), rice, salt, pepper
and nutmeg, white sauce (see p. 41).
Method. — Bone the leg and remove all
the sinews. Chop the meat finely together
with the fat and bread, season with salt,
pepper, and nutmeg. If a mortar is avail-
able, pound the meat till thoroughly blended
with the other ingredients, or put three
times through a mincer to save time. Form
into the shape of quenelles. Simmer 10 to
15 minutes in boiling stock or salted water.
Drain well. Serve on a bed of rice and pour
a creamy sauce over.
(3) Cutlets of Rabbit (Second Leg)
Materials. — Same ingredients as for quen-
94 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
elles, pur6e of peas as garnish, gravy or
tomato sauce (see p. 43).
Method. — Prepare the same as for quen-
elles. Shape like cutlets; egg, crumb and
fry ; garnish with the peas (or any other
garnish), and serve with gravy or tomato
sauce.
(4) Stewed Rabbit
Materials. — 2 shoulders of rabbit, 2 pieces
of back (near the neck), 1 oz. of fat, a little
corn flour, salt and pepper, a few potatoes,
1 small onion, stock.
Method. — Fry the pieces of rabbit lightly
in the fat and season with salt and pepper.
When browned, add a few potatoes cut into
dice, and the onion. Fry all together care-
fully. If the rabbit is done before the
vegetables, remove it and cook the vege-
tables longer. When done, dish up the
rabbit and garnish it with vegetables. Rinse
the pan out with stock, cook till all gravy
is dissolved, thicken slightly with corn flour
mixed smooth with a little water and brought
to the boil. Add this to the boiling stock and
stir together until clear. Pour over the rabbit.
This dish may be, like so many others,
cooked and served in the one casserole to
save washing-up.
MEAT DISHES 95
(5) Rabbit Soup
Materials. — Rabbit bones, 1 onion, 2 oz.
raw rice, salt, 3 pints water, 1 teaspoonful
curry powder, J oz. corn flour.
Method. — To make the bones into stock,
fry them with the onion and curry powder
and cover with the water. Add rice and
salt and cook until the rice is tender. To
do this well takes one hour. Strain the
liquid into a basin and remove all the bones
with the meat. Crush the rice through a
sieve or mincer, return to the soup, correct
the seasoning, and thicken slightly with corn
flour.
Patties (Four Small)
(Made of Meat off Bones used for
Soup)
Pick all flesh off the bones, chop finely,
mix with tomato, brown or curry sauce
(see p. 41), and place in patty cases or make
into rissoles or other made dish.
Cobbler's Pie
Materials (For Paste). — 3 oz. suet or
clarified fat, 8 oz. self-raising flour, 8 oz.
dry mashed potatoes, a little salt and pepper.
96 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
(For Pie Filling). — 4 oz. or more of gristle
taken from bones which have been used for
stock, 1 or 2 oz. onion, ^ oz. dripping, 1 lb.
potatoes, a little salt and pepper, J oz. flour.
Method. — Line the sides of a pie dish or
baking-tin with a suet paste made of the
mashed potatoes, suet, flour, salt and pepper.
Do not use any water to mix. Fry the
onion in the dripping; when this begins to
cook, add the flour, and fry to a fawn colour,
then add the potatoes, cut into dice, cooked
or raw, and cover with water or stock ;
season to taste, also add the gristle minced or
cut small. Cook until the potatoes are
done. Fill the pie dish with the mixture,
arrange a layer of cooked sliced potatoes on
the top, and bake for 30 minutes. The same
dish can be made by filling all the ingredients
in without first cooking them, covering the
pie with an old plate or dish. When nearly
done remove the plate, to allow the surface
to colour. In that case the time for cooking
will be 1 hour. Savoury herbs can be added,
and just a sprinkling of vinegar or Wor-
cester sauce will add piquancy to the boiled
gristle.
Meat and Potato Flan
Materials. — Potato pie crust (see p. 181),
MEAT DISHES 97
mixture as described for cobbler's pie (see
p, 95), slices of cooked potato, a little fat
to baste, a sprinkling of chopped parsley.
Method. — Line a tin plate with potato-
pie crust. Prepare the mixture as described
for cobbler's pie ; fill the plate with this,
and cover with slices of cooked potato.
Baste with fat and bake to a nice colour.
Serve sprinkled with chopped parsley.
Potato Pancakes with Bacon
Materials. — 1 lb. raw potatoes, 4 oz.
bacon, 1 egg^ juice of half a lemon, ^ lb.
self-raising flour, salt, pepper and nutmeg.
Method. — Place the lemon juice in a basin,
and grate the potatoes into it. Add the
egg, salt, pepper and a little nutmeg, and
when mixed add the flour. First fry the
bacon, then use the bacon fat to fry the
pancakes. This quantity will make about
12 small pancakes. The potato pancakes can
also be served with sweet syrup, in which case
leave out the pepper and nutmeg. With
minced meat, cooked ham or cheese folded
inside, they make a good breakfast dish.
Potato Stew and Bacon
Materials. — 1 lb. raw potatoes, 2 oz.
7
98 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
bacon, | pint cold water, | oz. flour, salt,
pepper and savoury spice, 2 to 4 oz. onion,
a little chopped parsley.
Method. — Cut the bacon into small blocks
and boil in sufficient water to cover for 1 or
2 minutes. Drain off the water, put the
bacon back in the pan, and allow to fry
until the fat has partially melted, and then
add the onion cut into dice, and fry to a
light colour. Now add the flour and again
fry to a fawn colour. Pour on the cold
water, bring to the boil while stirring, and
add the potatoes cut into quarters. The
moisture should be level with the potatoes ;
if not, add more water. Season with salt,
pepper, and a pinch of savoury spice. Cook
freely until the potatoes are done, and serve
sprinkled with chopped parsley.
Bully Beef Stew
Materials. — Slices of beef, potato stew
prepared as in the previous recipe.
Method. — Slice the beef into pieces a
quarter of an inch thick, arrange these
neatly on a hot dish. Pour over the potato
stew, and place in the oven for 5 or 10
minutes. Serve at once.
Heated in this manner the beef will be
whole instead of in shreds.
MEAT DISHES 99
Two Meat Dishes from a Breast of Mutton
—Mutton Broth and Stuffed Roll with
Barley
Materials. — Breast of mutton, weighing
1| lb., 1 dried egg, \ lb. mixed vegetables
(carrots, tvirnips, onions and celery) cut
small, 2 whole carrots, 2 quarts 3 gills of
water, 2 oz. pearl barley, also 1^ gill of
pearl barley, | oz. salt, | oz. corn flour, a
little cold milk, 1 tablespoonful vinegar, 1
teaspoonful chopped parsley, a little pepper,
spice, capers and breadcrumbs.
Method. — Bone and skin the breast of
mutton ; place the broken bones in 2 quarts
of water. Cut the boned breast into an
oblong or square, mince the trimmings with
salt, pepper, spice, parsley, and an equal
quantity of soaked and squeezed crumbs,
mix with egg. Open the breast of mutton
to make it sufficiently large to make into a
roll with the stuffing in the centre. Tie
with string and place in the water with the
bones ; add the salt and 2 oz. barley, and
cook for 1 hour.
Place in a perfectly clean tin 1| gill
barley, cover with 3 gills water, and add salt.
Cover with a muslin and the lid, and then
place the tin in the broth, adding the 2
100 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
whole carrots and the mixed vegetables.
Cook until done. Prepare a caper sauce
with I pint of the stock thickened with corn-
flour mixed smooth in a little cold milk,
season, and add the vinegar and some
capers. Dish up the mutton cut into six
slices, garnish with the barley from the tin
and the carrots cut into quarters. Pour
the sauce over the meat, or serve separately.
Add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley to the
soup.
Meat and Maize Cutlet
Materials. — 4 oz. chopped meat (cooked
or raw), | oz. fat, 8 oz. maize semolina,
1 oz. chopped onion, a little nutmeg and
pepper, 1 pint of water, J oz. salt.
Method. — Fry the onion in the fat, add
the chopped meat, and fry again lightly.
Cover with the water, adding salt, a little
pepper and nutmeg and the maize semolina,
and cook slowly in a double cooker or in
a tin placed in boiling water or a steamer
for 1 hour. Turn out the contents on to a
dish to cool, mix the whole, and shape into
cutlets. Coat with batter (made of flour
and water), crumb, and fry in deep fat, or
place on a greased baking-sheet and bake
in the oven to a nice golden colour. If
MEAT DISHES 101
one egg is added to the mixture after cooking,
the cutlets can be baked without crumbing.
Serve with a vegetable sauce or gravy (see
p. 22), or when served with a haricot
stew, no sauce is requiixd.
Ox Cheek and Haricot Pie
Materials. — 1 ox cheek, haricot beans.
Method. — Cut the cheek into |-inch slices
and cook as directed for meat gravy (see
p. 23). \\Tien brown, add as many steamed
haricot beans as desired, cover w4th w^ater,
and simmer till thoroughly blended. Season
to taste and place in a pie dish. When
cold, cover with short crust, and bake for
20 minutes in a hot oven ; or line a pie
mould with pie crust (see p. 181), fill with
the mixture, cover with paste, and bake
quickly.
Patties or pastries made with the above
mixture make a pleasing change from pies,
and are useful cold for the pocket lunches
needed by so many war workers.
Savoury Rice with Meat or Fish
Materials. — Rice, 1 chopped onion, meat
or fish, a little fat and grated cheese.
Method. — To prepare dry rice, either with
102 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
meat or fish, fry the meat or fish (which
must be cut into convenient pieces) in fat,
and when sufficiently cooked take it out of
the pan. Fry a chopped onion in the fat
without colouring, and add the rice, which
should be picked so that it is thoroughly
clean. It is best not to wash it, but if it
must be washed, dry on a cloth and fry in
the fat so that each grain is covered. Then
add the quantity of liquid, which varies
according to the quality of the rice, from
twice to five times the measure of the rice ;
thus for 1 gill of rice 1| to 5 gills of liquid
may be required. Now bring it to the
boil, season, add the fish or meat, and cook
from 18 to 25 minutes. For colour a little
powdered saffron may be added. Freshly
grated cheese sprinkled over just before
dishing up improves the nutriment of the
dish. Cook and serve in a casserole.
Stuffed Marrow
Materials. — 1 marrow, minced mutton or
other meat, a little fat, some fried onion,
a little tomato sauce and breadcrumbs.
Method. — Peel the marrow, cut into pieces,
parboil, then fry in a little fat on both sides,
and drain. Prepare the minced meat, to
MEAT DISHES 103
which add some fried onion and tomato
sauce to bind ; season well. Fill the marrow,
sprinkle with breadcrumbs, and baste with
oil or fat, and bake.
Fried Liver and Onions with Rice or
Polenta
Materials. — | lb. liver, 1 oz. dripping, a
little salt and pepper, 4 oz. onion, | oz.
flour, I pint of water, 1 dessertspoonful of
vinegar, a little chopped parsley.
Method. — Cut the liver in slices I inch
thick, season with salt and pepper, and
flour it. Heat the dripping, and when hot,
place the liver in and fry until pearls of
blood rise on the surface, then turn it and
fry on the other side until again pearls of
pale blood show. Take the liver out and
dish up. Shred the onion, and fry in the
pan in which the liver was fried, stirring
with a fork until the onion is cooked. Add
the flour, cook for a few minutes, then add
the water and vinegar. Stir and cook for
about 10 minutes. Season to taste, and
pour over the liver, garnishing with a little
chopped parsley.
To make the meat go further, serve
arranged on a bed of savoury rice (see p. 138),
104 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
or place a portion of liver and onion on a
round cake of fried polenta (see p. 121).
Cabbage Stew and Liver Dumplings
Materials. — 1 savoy or other large cabbage,
4 oz. raw chopped liver, a little salt, pepper,
nutmeg and herbs, 2 oz. shredded onions,
2 oz. fat, 3 or 4 oz. breadcrumbs, 1 egg.
Method. — Clean the cabbage, cut into
shreds and parboil ; drain. Put 1 oz. fat
into a saucepan, and when hot add the
shredded onions, and sweat without allowing
them to take colour. Add the cabbage,
salt, pepper, a grate of nutmeg, and a little
water, cover with the lid and bring to
the boil, then simmer. Cream 1 oz. fat
with the egg, add the liver, season with
salt, pepper, nutmeg, herbs, and add sufficient
breadcrumbs to stiffen the mixture. Shape
into balls, roll in flour or breadcrumbs, and
place these with the cabbage, and cook for
80 minutes. Dish up the liver dumplings
to form a border. Cook the cabbage so
that there is just sufficient liquor left to
form the gravy.
Veal^ Mutton^ or Rabbit and Potato I(agout
Materials. — | lb. cooked veal or other
MEAT DISHES 105
meat free of bone, 1 lb. potato gnocchi (see
p, 137), 4 oz. onions, 1 oz. fat, | oz. flour,
2 tomatoes, 1 pint water, salt, pepper and
a pinch of spice or herbs.
Method, — Fry the onion in the fat, add
the flour, and cook to a nut-brown colour ;
when done, add the tomatoes, peeled and
cut into dice (the pips removed), then add
the water. Bring to the boil, seasoning
with salt, pepper and spice. Now add the
meat cut into dice and the potato gnocchi.
Cook freely for 20 minutes.
Meat Loaves and Stewed Beetroot
Materials (Meat Loaves). — 4 oz. cooked
meat, 2 oz. breadcrumbs, 1 egg, 1 oz. fat,
salt, pepper and nutmeg. (Beetroot). — 1 lb.
cooked beetroot, 2 oz. onion, 1 oz. fat, 1
tablespoonful vinegar, salt and pepper.
Method. — Mix the cooked meat, bread-
crumbs (fresh or soaked and squeezed dry),
egg, fat, salt, pepper and nutmeg well
together. Shape into rolls, place in a
greased baking dish, sprinkle w^ith bread-
crumbs and fat, and bake in the oven.
When done, remove, add a little stock to
rinse out the pan, and strain the gravy over
the loaves, and garnish with cooked beetroot.
106 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
Sheep's Trotters
Materials. — 4 scalded sheep's trotters,
carrot and onion, bouquet of savoury herbs,
1 clove, 6 peppercorns, a little salt, nutmeg
and chopped parsley, f oz. flour, | oz. fat,
J gill milk, 1 teaspoonful of lemon juice.
Method. — Parboil the trotters, then place
in cold water and bring to the boil with the
carrot, onion, herbs, clove, peppercorns and
a little salt. When done, remove all the
bones, and prepare a sauce as follows in a
casserole : Mix the flour with the fat and
reduce the liquor till only 1| gill is left.
Add this by degrees to the flour and butter,
then add the milk and boil for 10 minutes.
Grate a little nutmeg with the lemon juice,
add a little sauce and mix well together, then
return to the remainder of the sauce and boil.
Add the drained trotters and simmer for 10
minutes.
Cooked button onions and mushrooms may
be added.
The sheep's trotters can be made into
fritters and served in any way in which
calf's head is served. Minced and added to
a vegetarian Scotch broth they form a sub-
stantial and nourishing dish.
MEAT DISHES 107
Fried Ox Cheek or Ox Cheek Fritters
Materials. — 1 lb. ox cheek, 1 oz. fat, a
little egg and breadcrumbs.
Method. — Slice the cheek and place it on
some shredded onion and 1 oz. fat, salt and a
pinch of spice. Cover and let it " sweat " ;
add water little by little, and cook and turn
until the cheek is done. Let it cool under
a heavy weight. With the gravy make a
brown sauce, half of which reduce and use to
coat the slices of ox cheek. Then egg and
breadcrumb the slices twice, fry in deep
fat, and serve with the remainder of the
sauce. Fritters can be made by coating one
slice of ox cheek with sauce, covering it with
another slice, then passing them through
frying batter and baking them in a hot oven.
Ox cheek makes excellent broth, patties,
salad, etc.
Meat Rolls or Olives with Peas
Materials. — Some slices of raw beef, a little
salt, pepper and herbs, a little fat, 1 dozen
button onions, 2 oz. bacon, | pint fresh or
soaked and steamed dried peas, little potato
flour or corn flour.
Method. — Cut the slices of beef, flatten and
108 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
trim them to an oblong, season with salt,
pepper and herbs, then roll up and tie with
two strings. Fry them lightly in fat, add the
onions and bacon cut into dice and blanched,
and fry to a nice colour. Cover with water,
season with salt and pepper, and simmer for
1 hour. Remove the fat, add the peas, and
cook until the whole is tender. Mix a little
potato or corn flour with some of the cooled
liquid and then add it to the remainder to
form a slightly thickened gravy ; correct the
seasoning and serve.
The peas could be cooked plain if desired,
and then | oz. flour should be sprinkled over
the rolls after frying so as to form a thickened
gravy without the final addition of the corn
or potato flour. Use the meat trimmings
inside the meat rolls.
Mock Duck and Apple Sauce
Materials. — 4 slices of lean mutton weigh-
ing 3 oz. each, stuffing as for duck (sage and
onions), little salt and pepper, 1 egg, fresh
or dried, or J oz. flour, a few thickly cut
slices of fat bacon, gravy and apple sauce.
Method. — Flatten the slices of mutton
and trim to an oval, season with salt and
pepper. Prepare a stuffing as for duck, and
MEAT DISHES 109
bind with the egg. Fill the centre of the
ovals of mutton and roll up. Cover with
the bacon and skewer them into shape.
Roast plain, and serve with gravy and
apple sauce.
Meat Salad
Materials. — Some slices of cooked meat,
preferably stock meat well cooked with
plenty of gristle, some thinly cut rings of
onion, sliced beetroot, potatoes, tomatoes,
cucumber and any other vegetable, a little
salad dressing of any kind, a little chopped
herbs, parsley, tarragon and chervil.
Method. — Mix all together, baste thor-
oughly with salad dressing, then arrange
neatly in a salad dish and keep as cool as
possible. Sprinkle with chopped herbs.
Savoury Maize Roll
Materials. — Suet maize paste (see pp. 182
or 189), sausage meat, vegetable gravy or
vegetable sauce (see p. 22).
Method. — Use suet maize paste as given for
maize jam roll, place the sausage meat in
the centre and roll up, tie in a cloth and
steam for 2 hours. Serve with gravy or
vegetable gravy or sauce.
110 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
PUaw
Materials. — 1 oz. fat, 1 oz. chopped onion,
I lb. lean mutton (if tough, part cook it), | lb.
peeled tomatoes, 1 pint stock, J lb. rice
(raw), seasoning to taste.
Method. — Cut the mutton in small squares
and fry in the fat. Add the onion and rice
and stir until hot, then add the tomatoes,
peeled and cut up ; season and cover with
the stock and cook until meat and rice are
sufficiently done — about 20 minutes.
Other vegetables, such as artichokes or
aubergines, may be added and all cooked
together.
Stock Meat and Rice Croquettes
Materials. — A little fried chopped onion,
Worcester sauce, salt, pepper and spice,
crumbs or cooked rice or potatoes, batter,
gristle and meat pickings from soup bones.
Method. — \Mien bone stock is made there
remains on the bones a certain amount of
meat, skin and gristle, which, although it has
lost its savour which it has given to the
stock, has still a certain value as a food.
This, when mixed and added to fried chopped
onion and a little Worcester sauce, well
seasoned with salt, pepper and spice, is
MEAT DISHES 111
excellent, and when mixed with crumbs or
cooked rice can be made into croquettes or
rissoles. An equal quantity of rice and meat
is best, or some mashed potatoes can be
added, which will also help in the binding.
Coated with batter and crumbed and fried,
these are very appetising. If they are to be
baked, which of course during the shortness
of fat is perhaps the only way to deal with
them, it would be best to roll the stuffing
into a very thin layer of paste, brush over
with water and then roll in crumbs, instead of
using a batter. WTien baked, these will be
suitable for breakfast or supper.
CHAPTER V
MEATLESS DISHES— CEREALS,
PULSES, ETC.
It may be that with increased knowledge we
shall feed better though we eat less.
"4
CHAPTER V
MEATLESS DISHES— CEREALS,
PULSES, ETC.
Method of Cooking Cereals
In cooking cereals often much valuable food
is wasted. Rice for curry is, after boiling,
drained and washed ; thus starch and
minerals are thrown away ; or if cooked in
milk in the usual fashion it is liable to burn,
requires much attention, and considerable
time in cooking which, when gas, oil or
electricity are used, might be saved. Much
of this waste may be avoided by adopting
the following method : Place the cereal
in a tin — a cocoa tin for instance — add as
much water as the cereal is able to absorb,
salt according to the moisture added^ but
much less than is generally used, cover the
tin with muslin, and then with the lid, so
that no steam or water can escape, or any
water enter. Place in a pan of boiling
water, and allow to cook according to the
116 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
time required. (For details as to quantity
of water and time of cooking, see recipes.)
It will be found that the cereal will be
thoroughly cooked, every grain intact, and
the natural flavour and all the minerals
preserved. No more moisture must be
added than is necessary, so that the full
food value is preserved, for if too much
moisture is absorbed the food value will
be reduced accordingly, and the sloppy
mass of food will not be sufficiently masti-
cated. There is not much to gain by soaking
cereals, except tapioca or barley. Rice
grains are destroyed by soaking, and conse-
quently break. A rice pudding prepared
by adding milk in the usual proportion
to the rice, after it has been thus cooked;
and then baked, will be creamy, the rice
grains remain whole though thoroughly
cooked, and the flavour such that no sugar
will be required. By following this " tin
method " of cooking, it is possible to produce
a good substitute for breadcrumbs with
maize semolina (see p. 231).
Cooking by this method is economical of
time, material and fuel. Many tins can be
placed in one cooking vessel, so that when
gas is used, all may be cooked over one
burner.
MEATLESS DISHES 117
Method of Cooking Pulse Food
Pulses prepared in the usual manner
take a long time to cook, absorb a large
proportion of water, and in doing so decrease
the food value to the amount of water
absorbed. There is here a waste of fuel
and time. It is usual to soak pulse food
for 12 to 24 hours to allow them to absorb
the moisture lost in drying, and also to add
a certain percentage of soda to soften the
skins, which harden in the drying, and to
soften the water. Rain water, which is
already soft, does not require this, but
otherwise, as the pulse contains lime, it is
advisable to add a certain amount of soda.
Water in which potatoes are cooked is also
an excellent medium to soften the skins.
Often the pulse begins to shoot while soak-
ing ; when placed in boiling water and left
to soak this does not occur.
Pulses should be placed in boiling water,
adding one teaspoonful of bicarbonate of
soda to each quart of water, and left to soak
until fully expanded — that is, 12 to 24 hours.
In soaking Egyptian lentils, the soda is not
necessary ; the husks are tender, and perhaps
also they do not contain so much lime as the
other pulses. After this soaking pulses are
118 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
easily and quickly cooked by steam. They
must be washed in fresh water after soaking,
to wash the soda well away. Then tie
them in a cloth to the lid of the ordinary
saucepan so that they hang over boiling
water. There should be sufficient water to
produce steam for the time required for
cooking the pulse, and the water should not
be allowed to boil violently, for if the water
touches the pulse it hardens them and
retards the cooking.
Time of Steaming. — Lentils, 15 minutes ;
haricot beans and butter beans, 30 ; split
peas, yellow or green, 20 ; and red or brown
haricots and whole peas, from 30 to 50
minutes.
When so cooked by steam, the pulse
absorbs less than its own weight in water, is
thoroughly cooked, yet every seed is whole,
and can be easily mashed for pur6e or
soups and requires but very little seasoning.
When eaten in this way, pulses must be
masticated, which is the first stage of
digestion, whilst when served in the usual
broken-up state they are more often
swallowed with little or no mastication.
Pulses contain only about 2 per cent, of
fat, therefore they should be, when possible,
accompanied by fatty meat, such as pork or
MEATLESS DISHES 119
bacon. When so served the pulse should be
allowed to simmer, after the steaming, in the
gravy of the meat, and so become enriched
with the fat of the meat, in preference to being
served dry or stewed with added fat or
stock. When fat meat is not available,
other fat must be added.
Peas
Soak in boiling water with 1 teaspoonful of
bicarbonate of soda per quart of water, for
12 to 24 hours (potato water is sometimes
used for this purpose, in which case bi-
carbonate is not required). Wash well in
several fresh waters, then steam till tender,
30 to 50 minutes.
Haricot Beans
As above. Steam for 30 minutes.
Red Lentils (Egyptian)
As above. No soda required ; steam 15
minutes. If boiled it is not necessary to
soak them. Boil in an equal quantity of
water (a cupful of pulses to a cupful of water,
for example), and absorb all water by slow
cooking.
120 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
Rice
Place in a tin with Ij times the measure
of water, milk or stock (very little salt).
Close the vessel as tightly as possible so
that no water can enter or escape. Place in
a pan of boiling water, and steam for 20 to
30 minutes.
Barley
Soak with twice the amount of moisture,
seal up as for rice, and steam for 40 to 60
minutes.
Note. — All the subsequent mixtures may
be served as rissoles, croquettes or medallions.
Croquettes should be cork-shaped, and coated
with flour and water batter and crumbs.
Medallions are ball-shaped first, then coated
and pressed into medallion shape with the
lid of a cocoa tin, which gives it the correct
shape.
The mixture may be varied by adding
some of any of the additions named, such
as rice, barley, peas, lentils, eggs, nuts, and,
if the substance needs to be enriched, dried
milk powder may be added. This, of course,
adds greatly to the food value.
These preparations are satisfying, easily
made and appetising.
MEATLESS DISHES 121
Rice Savoury
Materials. — 1 quart water, J oz. salt,
I pint rice, 2 to 4 oz. grated or chopped
cheese, pepper and nutmeg.
Method. — Cook the rice for 30 minutes
in salt and water ; add pepper, nutmeg
and cheese and stir till creamy. Turn out
into a dish, and when cold shape into cakes,
egg, crumb and fry, or coat in flour and
water batter and bake or fry.
Baked Rice and Lentils
Materials. — Some cooked lentils, an equal
quantity of cooked rice, 1 oz. of fat per lb.
of mixture, a little dripping, salt and pepper,
gravy.
Method. — Mix the rice and lentils together,
season with salt and pepper, add the
fat, place in a greased baking-tin, sprinkle
with dripping and bake in a hot oven.
Serve with gravy.
Polenta
Materials. — 1 quart water, | pint maize
semolina (yellow), | oz. salt, 1 oz. fat, a
little grated cheese (if this is added fat may
be omitted).
122 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
Method. — Boil the water, add salt and
fat and semolina or corn meal (yellow).
If white maize is used, double the amount
of maize is required. Boil for 15 to 20
minutes, stirring all the time, or place in a
porringer and cook for 1 hour. Turn out
to cool, cut into slices, and flour and fry-
in a frying-pan with a little fat. Sprinkle
with grated cheese or serve plain.
This paste is an excellent substitute for
bread with poached eggs, rarebit, etc. It
can be baked or fried and either floured or
crumbed.
Vegetable Sausages with Pulse and Nuts
Sausages can be made with vegetables
by using the mixture given for vegetable
cutlets (see p. 169). They should be treated
in the same manner as described in the ex-
planation for stock meat and rice croquettes
(see p. 110) by enclosing the mixtures in a
very thin layer of paste and breadcrumbs,
pressed or rolled to shape, and then baked.
In this manner a large number of dishes can be
made.
Polenta with Potatoes
Materials. — J lb. potatoes, 1 pint of water,
MEATLESS DISHES 123
I lb. maize semolina or maize flour, little
cheese, pepper and nutmeg.
Method. — Boil the potatoes ; when cooked,
drain and mash, but reserve the water.
Put the mash and water together (there
should be 1 pint of water), add the maize
semolina or maize flour, stir well and cook
thoroughly. Add cheese, pepper and a
little nutmeg. Turn out to cool, cut into
convenient pieces, coat with flour, and fry
or bake. If liked a little onion can also be
added.
When cheese is scarce it must be omitted,
and the onion will give a pleasant flavour.
This is an excellent breakfast dish.
Rarebit
Materials. — | pint of milk, 1 oz. ground
rice, 2 oz. finely chopped cheese, half-tea-
spoonful made mustard, salt, pepper, or
cayenne.
Method. — ^Mix the ground rice with a
little of the cold milk; boil the remaining
milk, add the ground rice and stir until
thick ; add the cheese (cleaned and grated
rind will answer), stir till dissolved, and then
add the mustard and salt, pepper or
cayenne. Place the mixture on pieces of
124 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
polenta (see p. 121) and bakeJi[l a golden
brown.
e^l
issoles
Maize and Cheese Rissoles
Materials. — Polenta (see p. 121), a little
crumbs and batter (see p. 233), rarebit
mixture (as above).
Method. — Place the cheese mixture between
two layers of polenta, cut into convenient
sized pieces, coat with thin batter and then
crumb. Place on a greased baking-sheet,
brush over with fat, and bake in a quick
oven until brown.
Instead of the cheese mixture, sausage
meat, potted fish or potted meat or mince
can be used.
Corn Flour Cheese Mixture for Rarebit
Materials. — | pint milk, 1 oz. corn flour,
2 oz. cheese (chopped), 1 teaspoonful of
mustard, a little salt and cayenne.
Method. — Dilute the corn flour in part of
the milk, boil the remainder with the
cheese, then add the corn flour, stirring
until the mixture boils again. Add the
salt, cayenne and mustard, and mix
thoroughly.
MEATLESS DISHES 125
Maize and Cheese Savoury
Materials. — A layer of polenta (see p. 121),
rarebit mixture (see previous recipe), some
stiff frying batter (see p. 234).
Method. — Cut the polenta into two equal
sized pieces ; on one spread a layer of rarebit
mixture, cover with the other layer and
press lightly together. Prepare a stiff frying
batter, cut the polenta into blocks, coat
with the batter and drain well, place on a
greased baking-tin and bake to a golden
brown.
This is an excellent dish, very easy to
make and highly nutritious.
Haricot Bean Stew
Materials. — 1 oz. chopped onion, 1 oz. fat,
1 lb. cooked haricot beans, stock or potato
water, little salt and pepper, 1 tablespoonful
of vinegar, | oz. flour, little chopped parsley.
Method. — Fry the onion in | oz. fat, add
the haricot beans, cover with stock or potato
water, season to taste with salt and pepper,
and then add the vinegar. Thicken the
gravy as for melted butter sauce (see p. 46)
by adding the fat and flour mixed (| oz. of
each) ; stir with a fork, simmer for 5 minutes,
126 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
then dish up and sprinkle with chopped
parsley. Cheese may be added if obtainable.
Peas Stew and Lentil Stew
Materials and Method. — The same as for
haricot bean stew.
Haricot Bean Pie
Materials. — Some short paste (see p. 179),
haricot bean stew, a few chopped nuts.
Method. — Line a pie pan with short paste,
fill with haricot bean stew, to which add a
few chopped nuts. Cover with paste, and
bake for 20 minutes.
Any filling can be used for pies : Peas
and beans, peas and beans with vegetables,
beans, potatoes and cheese, peas, barley
and curry, lentils and rice with onion, etc.
Timbales
Line timbale moulds with short paste
(see Chap. VIL), fill with filling, cover, and
bake 20 minutes. Turn out and serve hot
with sauce.
Timbale FiUing
Materials. — 1 oz. onion, | oz. fat, 1 tea-
MEATLESS DISHES 127
spoonful curry powder, 1 gill cooked barley,
1 gill cooked lentils.
Method. — Fry the onion, fat and curry
powder together, add the barley and lentils
or any other combination of pulse and
cereals. Moisten with vegetable sauce,
and simmer until thoroughly blended.
Cool, and use for filling of pies, patties,
etc.
The same can also be used in pie dishes
covered with potato or maize semolina crust.
Oatmeal Sausages
Materials. — | oz. fat, 2 oz. chopped onion,
1 or 2 oz. chopped suet, | pint of water, 1 gill
vegetable gravy (see p. 22), 2 oz. medium
oatmeal, 2 oz, fine oatmeal, salt, pepper and
spice.
Method. — Fry the onion and fat to-
gether, add the suet, water and vegetable
gravy. Boil ; then add the medium and fine
oatmeal mixed. Stir over the fire for 15
minutes, season with salt, pepper and spice,
and, when cooked and stiff, turn out to cool.
Shape as required, coat and crumb, and fry
or bake.
128 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
Oatmeal Sausages with Stock Meat
Materials. — Equal quantities of oatmeal
sausage mixture as above, and stock meat
(that is gristle and meat that hangs to the
bone after stock is made), a little seasoning,
a little Worcester sauce.
Method. — Mince the sausage and stock
meat all together, season highly, adding a
little Worcester sauce to bring the meaty
flavour back, coat as above, and fry or bake.
Oatmeal Canelons
Materials. — 4 oz. coarse oatmeal, 4 oz.
crusts of bread, 4 oz. fine oatmeal, 2 dried
eggs, 4 oz. chopped apples, pie paste (see
p. 181), 2 or 3 oz. chopped suet, salt and
pepper, 1 tablespoonful of sage, 2 oz. fried
chopped onions, a few breadcrumbs, vege-
table gravy (p. 22).
Method. — Soak the coarse oatmeal and
crusts of bread separately ; drain the oat-
meal, squeeze the bread dry, and mix together.
Add the fine oatmeal, eggs, apples, suet,
salt, pepper, sage and onions, mix well
together and season highly.
Roll out some pie paste very thin, cut into
oblong pieces, wet with water, place a large
MEATLESS DISHES 129
tablespoonful of the mixture in each, and roll
up like a sausage roll. Brush over the top
with water and sprinkle with crumbs. Bake
in a hot oven 15 to 20 minutes, and serve with
vegetable gravy.
Baked Oatmeal Pudding
Materials. — The same mixture as for oat-
meal canelons (foregoing recipe), vegetable
gravy (see p. 22).
Method. — Grease some dariole^ moulds,
line with crumbs, nearly fill with the mixture,
bake for 20 minutes, turn out, and serve
with vegetable gravy.
Instead of suet, nut fat can be used, or if
nuts are used, fat can be omitted.
Oaten Savoury
Materials. — 4 oz. medium oatmeal, 4 oz.
soaked bread crusts, 2 oz. chopped suet,
1 teaspoonful crushed sage or herbs, 1 oz.
chopped fried onion, a little salt and pepper,
gravy or vegetable sauce (see p. 22).
Method. — ^Mix the oatmeal with the soaked
crusts of bread, then add the suet, salt,
pepper, herbs and onion. Mix and bake in a
9
130 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
greased dish, and serve with gravy or vege-
table sauce.
Vegetable Pie
Materials. — | lb. carrot, i lb. swede, J lb.
onion, 4 oz. cabbage, a sprig of celery (cut
into small pieces or diamond shapes), 1 oz.
fat, a little salt and pepper, | pint of cooked
haricots or lentils, 1 tablespoonful Wor-
cester sauce, 1 tablespoonful mushroom
ketchup.
Method. — Place the vegetables in a sauce-
pan with the fat and a little salt. Cover
with the lid, and stove as for vegetable stock
(see p. 20). When the dried sediment is
formed at the bottom, cover the vegetables
with water and add the cooked pulse —
either haricots, peas or lentils, or a mixture
of them. Add the Worcester sauce and
mushroom ketchup, season to taste with
salt and pepper, and simmer together. If
the gravy does not thicken sufficiently by
the addition of the pulse, add a small quan-
tity of fat and flour mixed together with a
fork on a plate, or a little flour mixed
smoothly in water will serve the purpose.
Perhaps 1 oz. in all may be required.
Place the whole in a pie dish and let cool.
When cold, cover with pie crust (see p. 181),
MEATLESS DISHES 131
and place in a hot oven to bake the crust,
for the contents of the pie are already
cooked. The time necessary to bake the
crust will be quite sufficient to reheat the
contents of the pie.
Stoved Cabbage and Rice
Materials. — 1 oz. fat, 2 oz. shredded onion,
1 lb. shredded cabbage, 1 gill water, 1 gill
raw rice, pinch of salt and pepper.
Method. — Heat the fat, add the onion, and
" sweat " together until the onion is half
cooked, then add the cabbage and water,
also a pinch of salt. Cover the saucepan
and place on a gentle heat, and simmer until
the cabbage is nearly tender. Add the
rice, stirring with a fork to mix the rice
and cabbage well, and cover with sufficient
water to be just level with the cabbage
surface — about 1 gill. Correct the season-
ing by tasting, adding sufficient salt and
pepper. Cover the saucepan with a cloth
and the lid. This is done to prevent any
undue evaporation. Cook for 20 minutes,
taking care that the heat is very gentle so
that the contents cannot burn. After that
time the whole will be cooked. Serve as a
vegetable or in place of meat.
132 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
Served with poached eggs, this makes an
excellent luncheon dish. Form as many
pits on the surface of the cabbage as eggs
required ; they must be deep enough to
hold the egg. Break the eggs in the hollows,
cover the saucepan and poach until the eggs
are cooked. Cook this dish and serve it in
a casserole.
Rice Balls
Materials. — 1 quart water, J oz. salt, | pint
of rice, a little pepper and grated nutmeg, 1
oz. fat, flour, crumbs and batter (see p. 233).
Method. — Boil the water with the salt ;
rain the rice into the water and stir until
boiling-point is reached. Let the rice boil
freely for 30 minutes, then stir again to mash
the rice more or less so as to form a thick,
creamy substance. Add pepper and grated
nutmeg to taste, and a little fat if available
should be added — 1 oz. is sufficient. Turn
out to cool, shape into balls, using a little
flour to prevent the mixture adhering to the
hands, coat with batter and crumbs, and
bake in a hot oven until brown.
Note. — Rice cooked in this way and mixed
with pulse will in some measure reduce the
flatulence which this legume so frequently
causes.
MEATLESS DISHES 133
Lentils and Rice Balls
Materials. — 1 oz. onion, 1 oz. fat, 1 lb.
lentils and rice (cooked), a little mashed
potato, salt and pepper to taste, a few bread-
crumbs.
Method. — Fry the onion and fat together ;
when cooked add the lentils and rice, previ-
ously passed through a mincing-machine.
To this add sufficient mashed potato to
bind, season to taste with salt and pepper
and heat until boiling-point. Turn out on
to a plate. When quite cool form into balls
and roll in crumbs, place in a baking-tin,
baste lightly with fat, and bake in a hot
oven until brown. The oven must be hot
or the balls will not cook crisp and neatly.
Creamed Lentils
Materials. — | pint milk, 2 whole eggs (or
dried eggs), salt and pepper to taste, some
cooked lentils.
Method. — Beat the eggs well, add to the
milk, season with salt and pepper, and stir
over the fire until creamy. Be careful not
to boil this sauce, otherwise it will curdle.
Add the lentils, toss carefully while heating,
and serve sprinkled with parsley.
134 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
Curried Pulse
Materials. — 1 oz. onion, 1 oz. fat, 1
teaspoonful of curry powder, little flour,
some cooked pulse.
Method. — Fry the onion in fat. As soon
as it begins to colour add the curry powder
and fry together. Then add the flour, and,
when mixed, the beans (or whatever the
pulse is) should be added together with the
liquid. Finish as described in the last
recipe, but omit the parsley.
Home-Made Macaroni (Nouilles) — 1
Materials. — 1 lb. flour, | oz. of salt, a
little milk or water.
Method. — Mix the flour with milk or
water to a stiff paste, then add the salt.
The best way is to start with three-quarters
of the flour and then work in the remainder.
Let the paste rest for one hour in a cloth,
then roll out to the thickness required, and
hang over a rolling-pin until partially dry ;
roll up like a roly-poly and cut into slices.
Lay out loosely on a pastry -board. Boil
sufficient salted water to cover, then boil
the macaroni until tender — 10 to 20 minutes,
according to thickness.
MEATLESS DISHES 135
It is preferable to cook the paste in a
closed pan with only as much water as
it will absorb, and if possible a little fat.
Macaroni will absorb two or three times its
weight of water, so that if that amount is
added, with fat and seasoning, it will only
require when cooked to be sprinkled with
cheese or tomato.
Nouilles — 2
Materials. — 5 oz. rice flour, 4 oz. flour, 1
gill water, a little salt.
Method. — Scald 1 oz. of the rice flour in
water, then add the flour, the remaining
rice flour and a pinch of salt, mixing to a
very stiff paste. Let this rest, then roll out
and proceed as for macaroni.
How to Cook Macaroni
Parboil the macaroni, drain, then place
in the saucepan and cover with water, stock,
or water and milk. Season, cover with the
lid, and cook until tender — about 20 minutes.
The moisture should then be absorbed.
Add a little grated cheese, stir, and serve
very hot.
Instead of cheese, tomato sauce or gravy
136 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
can be added, or the plain boiled macaroni
may be used as required in any recipe.
Potato and Macaroni Pudding
Materials. — 2 oz. broken macaroni, 8 oz.
mashed potato, 2 oz. suet, 1 oz. chopped
onion (fried), 2 oz. chopped nuts (or 1 oz. of
chopped cheese), 4 oz. self-raising flour, 1 egg,
2 tablespoonfuls of tomato ketchup, spice,
salt, pepper and nutmeg.
Method. — Boil the macaroni for 5 minutes
in salted water, then drain ; add all the
remaining ingredients, mix together, add a
little moisture if required, and steam for
2 hours. In place of the nuts 1 oz. of chopped
cheese can be used.
Savoury Potato and Barley Pudding
Materials. — 2 oz. barley, 8 oz. dried
mashed potato, 2 oz. chopped suet, 1 oz.
onion, ^ oz. fat, 4 oz. self-raising flour,
2 tablespoonfuls vegetable sauce (p. 22),
1 teaspoonful curry powder (or 1 table-
spoonful of mushroom ketchup or Worcester
sauce), 1 egg, spice, salt and pepper.
Method. — Steam the barley for 40 minutes
with twice its measure of water. Fry the
MEATLESS DISHES 137
onion in fat, then add the other ingredients,
mix thoroughly, and steam for 2 hours.
The pudding is served with vegetable curry
sauce (see p. 41).
Savoury Maize and Vegetable Pudding
Materials. — Maize paste (see pp. 182 or
189), vegetable preparation as for vegetable
pie (see p. 130).
Method. — Line a pudding basin with the
maize paste, fill with vegetable preparation as
for vegetable pie, cover, and steam for 1 hour.
Any filling given in any of the other
recipes can be used — potato stew, cobbler's
pie, also apple, rhubarb and any other
fruit. Maize requires moisture to swell ; it
is therefore particularly suitable for fruit
pudding.
Potato Gnocchi
Materials. — 1 lb. potatoes, 1 egg, 1 oz.
fat, 4 oz. self-raising flour, salt, pepper and
nutmeg.
Method. — Bake the potatoes in the oven ;
when done, cut open and press out the
pulp, put in a basin with the egg, fat, salt,
pepper, nutmeg and flour, and mix all well
138 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
together to a dough. Roll into small balls
like hazel nuts, and place one by one on a
sieve, pressing with a fork to form a curl.
Boil in salted water for 10 minutes, and use
as for ravioli (see p. 140), or put in tomato
sauce or cream sauce and bake. The egg may
be omitted.
Risotto
Materials. — 1 oz. chopped onion, 1 oz. fat,
2 oz. grated cheese, | pint rice (about | lb.),
2 1 pints stock, | lb. tomatoes, a pinch of
saffron.
Method. — Fry the onion in the fat, add
the rice, and heat all together. Add the
tomato, peeled and cut up, saffron, 1 pint
of the stock, salt and pepper, and boil,
stirring from time to time, and adding more
stock when required. Cook altogether for
20 minutes. If desired, cut up some meat
and mix with the rice. At the finish put
in the grated cheese, boil while stirring it
in, and serve at once. The cheese and meat
may be omitted.
Macaroni with Tomatoes
Materials. — Macaroni, a little stock and
clarified fat, a few tablespoonfuls of grated
cheese.
MEATLESS DISHES 139
Method. — Parboil the macaroni in water ;
drain, and then cover with stock to which a
nut of fat is added, and cook for 18 to 20
minutes until nearly dry. Then add the
cheese. It should be dished up very hot,
and a ragout of tomatoes placed in the
centre. A piece of bread is the only other
food required with this dish, which forms
a substantial meal, and for economy is
difficult to surpass. When dishes of this
kind are served, the pudding is superfluous,
and only a little fruit is needed for the
sweet course.
The fat and cheese can be omitted, but
then the dish loses greatly in food value.
Nut Roll
Materials. — 4 oz. bread, 2 oz. gluten flour,
2 oz. lightly grilled peanuts, 4 oz. maize
crumbs or breadcrumbs substitute (see p.
231), salt, cayenne or spice, the juice of a
lemon, 2 soaked dried eggs, 1 tablespoonful
cooked rice or chopped pine kernels, vege-
table stock.
Method. — Soak the bread in water or
milk, drain, and cook in a saucepan to form
a stiff paste. Add the gluten flour and
peanuts, pass through a mincing-machine
140 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
until all is evenly fine. Add all the re-
maining ingredients ; tie in a muslin, leaving
room to swell, and boil freely in vegetable
stock. When done, unroll, thicken the
vegetable gravy, and serve with the roll
garnished as desired.
Nut and Haricot Pie
Materials. — J pint soaked and steamed
beans (haricot, butter, or brown haricots),
2 oz. lightly roasted nuts, 1 oz. chopped
onion, | oz. fat, 1 tablespoonful tomato
ketchup, seasoning to taste, pie paste
(see p. 181).
Method. — Fry the onion in the fat, then
mix with the remaining ingredients. Pass
all through a mincer, season highly, and
bind, if crumbly, with a little vegetable
gravy.
Line a pie mould with pie paste, three-
quarters fill with the mixture, cover, let rest
for 1 hour, and then bake in a hot oven
for 20 to 80 minutes.
Ravioli
Materials. — 8 oz. flour, a little salt, pepper
and nutmeg, a little milk, some cooked
MEATLESS DISHES 141
spinach, a little vegetable gravy and grated
cheese.
Method. — Mix the flour with salt, pepper
and nutmeg to taste, to which add sufficient
milk to make a very stiff paste. Let it
rest a while, then divide into four pieces and
roll out, each one iV inch thick. Have ready
some cooked spinach ; season, and pass
through a sieve. Brush over with water
two of the sheets of paste ; mark with a
cutter of 1| inch to 2 inches in diameter,
and place a small knob of spinach in each.
Cover with the other two sheets of paste,
press well together around the spinach, and
cut in squares. Heat sufficient salted water
to boil the ravioli, and cook for 10 minutes,
then refresh and drain.
Moisten the bottom of a gratin dish with
gravy, and arrange a layer of ravioli and
grated cheese, etc., until all have been used
up ; sprinkle with grated cheese, and bake
in the oven to a nice brown colour. Cheese
may be omitted.
Tomato sauce may be used instead of
gravy.
Any vegetable, meat or fish filling may
be used in the ravioli.
CHAPTER VI
VEGETABLES, VEGETABLE DISHES
AND SALADS
M3
Waste not, want not. Familiar words, but
none the less — true.
CHAPTER VI
VEGETABLES, VEGETABLE DISHES
AND SALADS
The Conservative Method of Cooking
Vegetables
General Notes
Vegetables contain minerals or salts which
are necessary to health. In the usual
method of cooking these in water with salt,
and sometimes with soda, most of these
salts are dissolved in the water, which, after
the vegetables are cooked, is thrown away.
The added salt gives taste to the vegetable,
but the valuable minerals are lost. Cabbage
after cooking contains more water than when
in a raw state. The soda in the cooking
destroys the finer tissues of the leaves, the
starch is washed out with the mineral salts,
and what remains is served. All greens are
treated in this manner, and, consequently,
lose their most valuable constituents.
lO
146 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
Carrots when boiled lose, in addition to salts,
a large amount of sugar, which is also washed
out. The onion and artichokes fare like-
wise. Beetroot and parsnip lose the greater
part of the sugar. In fact all vegetables, of
whatever kind they are, are all more or less
wasted by being boiled, whereas if these
vegetables are cooked in their own juice or
water, of which they contain a large per-
centage, the flavour and the minerals are
all preserved, very little additional salt is
necessary, and the natural colour of the
vegetable is maintained. For this purpose
all vegetables should be cut into small
portions and placed in a clean saucepan.
Water may be added, but not more than will
evaporate during the process of cooking,
and a little fat of some kind is added — say
half an ounce for every pound of vegetables.
A lid is placed on the pot, which should be
closed as tightly as possible to prevent undue
evaporation, and a very small flame placed
under the pan to allow for simmering only.
Twenty minutes is generally sufficient for
cooking. Vegetables which shrink during
cooking, like cabbage, require very little
water. Carrot, cauliflower and the like should
be covered with water, cooked till nearly
tender, and then cooked quickly to evaporate
VEGETABLES 147
excess moisture, so that when done no
more moisture is left than that which is
required as gravy. No sauces are necessary,
and thus a saving of time and material is
effected.
Vegetables can be blended with rice or
other cereal by adding this to the vegetable,
with as much liquid as the cereal will absorb.
In this way many appetising dishes can be
prepared in one saucepan ; meat or fish
may be added if required.
When preparing vegetable stock, the vege-
tables are cut small and " stoved '' (see p.
88) in the pot with fat until the salts are
dissolved, the water evaporated, and a sedi-
ment is formed at the bottom, which is not
unlike the gravy from roasted meat. The
water is then added, and the whole boiled
for 10 to 20 minutes (the vegetables are
already cooked during the stoving). Salt
is added to taste, and the stock is then
strained. The fat added rises on the top of
the stock, and should be skimmed and used
again for a similar or other purpose. The
stock is very similar to meat stock in appear-
ance and not unlike in flavour, except in
sweetness, which, if disliked, may be counter-
acted by adding a small amount of lemon
juice or vinegar.
148 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
The vegetables have a better flavour
after the stock has been extracted than
when boiled in water in the usual method,
and should be utilised in pies, cutlets and
various other preparations.
The stock will be excellent for sauces or
gravy to be served with meatless dishes,
for making savoury rice, and various other
preparations for which stock is needed.
Thus we have here, not a new, but a little
known and useful economic method of pre-
paring vegetables, easy to carry out, econ-
omical of fuel, and requiring no greater
attention than other and less conservative
ways of cooking.
Note. — All these vegetables may be cooked
and served en casserole to save washing-up.
Baked Stuffed Marrow
Materials. — 1 marrow, 1 or 2 onions, 1 or
more tomatoes, a little chopped parsley,
garlic, breadcrumbs and sauce, salt and
pepper, a little dripping.
Method. — Peel and cut the marrow in
oblong pieces, size as desired ; fry both sides
in a little fat. Drain. Chop all the re-
mainder of the marrow, including the seed,
also the onions, and fry in the fat in which
VEGETABLES 149
the marrow was fried. When all is melted
down, add the chopped tomatoes, a little
garlic, parsley, salt and pepper. Mix all
thoroughly with breadcrumbs, cooked rice
or maize, and moisten with sauce. Fill the
pieces of marrow with this mixture, smooth
the surface, sprinkle with crumbs, and bake
until brown. Serve with brown or tomato
sauce (see p. 43).
Vegetable Marrow
Materials. — 1 marrow, | oz. fat per lb. of
marrow, a little salt and chopped parsley.
Method. — When peeled and the pips re-
moved, cut into slices. Place in a saucepan
with a little water and the fat. Add salt,
cover with a lid and cook till tender, but do
not overcook. Toss from time to time until
half cooked, then simmer without stirring,
otherwise the marrow will become a mash.
Serve with chopped parsley.
Marrow au Gratin
Materials. — 1 marrow, a little grated
cheese, a little fat.
Method. — Boil the pieces of marrow in
salted water until nearly tender ; drain on a
150 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
cloth. Place in a dish, sprinkle with grated
cheese and fat, and bake in the oven until
soft and a nice colour.
Do not let the marrow remain in the water
until all the pieces are cooked ; remove them
as they are done. They vary in thickness, so
do not cook alike.
Or cover the marrow with white sauce and
then sprinkle with cheese (if procurable),
or crumbs, and bake.
Celery
Materials. — | oz. fat to the lb. of celery,
juice of half a lemon, a little salt.
Method. — Cut the celery about 8 inches
long, carefully trim the root end to a point.
Remove the very outside leaves, skin the.
remaining outside leaves with a potato
peeler or knife, to remove all the strings, and
cut into two lengthwise. Boil in salt water
for 5 to 10 minutes, then refresh by placing
in cold water. This is done to whiten the
celery. Wash well between the leaves, which
are now flexible, to remove all grit ; tie in
bunches. Place in a saucepan, cover with
water, add the fat, lemon juice and salt,
and place on the fire to boil. Let simmer till
tender, and when nearly cooked let the liquid
VEGETABLES 151
reduce so that only sufficient is left for
sauce.
Sprouts
Materials. — Sprouts, a little salt, | oz.
fat to the lb. of sprouts.
Method. — Clean as usual. Place in a
saucepan and just cover with water, add
salt and ^ oz. fat per lb. Cover with a lid,
boil freely till nearly tender, remove the lid
and reduce till nearly dry.
Parsnips
Cook like turnips (see p. 155). A sharp
sauce or Lyonnaise sauce goes better with
parsnips than white sauce.
Stoved Leeks
Materials. — A bunch of leeks, | oz. fat
to every lb. of leeks (a market bunch of leeks
weighs about 2 lb.), the juice of half a
lemon and a little salt.
Method. — Clean the leeks, split in halves,
remove the dark green parts and wash well.
Parboil in salted water and refresh in cold
water. Place in a saucepan with the fat,
adding the salt and lemon juice and water to
152 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
cover. Boil freely at first, then slowly until
tender. Reduce the liquid, thicken slightly
with diluted corn flour, dish the leeks up and
pour the sauce over.
Instead of lemon juice, vinegar may be
used, but in that case the vinegar must not
be added until the leeks are cooked. Simmer
for 10 minutes after the vinegar is added.
Stuffed Onions
Materials. — Some onions, an equal quan-
tity of chopped mushrooms, an equal
quantity of breadcrumbs or soaked and
squeezed bread, 1 egg to 1 lb. of mixture
(filling), 1 teaspoonful of parsley, spice and
seasoning, a little fat and vegetable stock or
water.
Method. — Peel the onions, parboil in
salted water for 5 minutes, then remove
carefully the inside from the root end, so
that only two layers of onion remain. Chop
all the removed onion and fry in a little fat.
When fried, add the mushrooms, fry to-
gether, and then add the breadcrumbs or
soaked and squeezed bread. Bind with the
egg, adding parsley, spice and seasoning to
taste. Fill the onions with the stuffing,
sprinkle with crumbs, place in a greased
VEGETABLES 153
saucepan with a lid on over a small flame to
sweat, and let fry lightly. Nearly cover with
vegetable stock or water, season, cover with
the lid and bring the liquid to the boil.
Then place in an oven and cook till tender
— 1 hour or more. Remove the lid, reduce
the liquid, baste the onions with the reduced
liquid and bake to a nice colour, then remove
the onions and thicken the gravy if necessary.
Pour the sauce over the onions and sprinkle
with chopped parsley.
Any kind of stuffing can be used for the
onions instead of the one given here. For
example, the onion mixed with mashed
potato or rice and seasoning.
Purees or Mashed Vegetables
All kinds of vegetables, such as carrots,
turnips, artichokes, and peas, beans, lentils,
can all be passed through a mincing-machine
after cooking by the conservative method
as directed, and served as purees, croquettes,
rissoles, gratins, timbales, etc.
Jerusalem Artichokes
Wash and peel the artichokes ; place
them in salted water to which a little lemon
154 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
juice has been added, then cook as explained
for the salsify (see p. 156). Serve with
white sauce, gravy or au gratin. The re-
maining liquid may be used for soup.
Jerusalem Artichake Fritters
Drain the cooked artichokes, season,
sprinkle with lemon juice and chopped
parsley. Coat with frying batter, drain
well, and place on a greased baking-sheet,
and bake to a golden brown. Serve with
tomato or vegetable sauce.
Artichoke Cake
Materials. — Artichokes, white sauce (see
p. 41), bread dough (see p. 220), a little
grated cheese.
Method. — Line a greased dish with bread
dough, place the artichokes in the centre,
let the bread rise. The edge should be rolled
up so as to form a border when risen. Cover
the artichokes with white sauce, sprinkle
with cheese, and bake for 80 minutes.
Cauliflower
Cut the cauliflower (1 lb.) small, in bunches,
trim the stalk as well. Place in a saucepan.
VEGETABLES 155
just cover with water, add a little salt and
I oz. fat. Cover with a lid, cook till nearly
done, then remove the lid, reduce quickly
till nearly dry, and serve without sauce.
Cauliflower au Gratin
Dish up, cover with white sauce, sprinkle
with grated cheese, and bake to a nice
colour. Or mix the cauliflower with the
sauce, season well, place in the dish, sprinkle
with cheese, and bake.
The sauce can be omitted — only sprinkle
with cheese or crumbs, or both mixed, and
then bake.
Carrots
Materials. — Carrots, | oz. fat per lb. of car-
rots, a pinch of salt, a little chopped parsley.
Method. — Slice or cut in shape of small
carrots, add J oz. fat per lb., cover with
water and a very little salt, boil freely
till tender. Reduce the liquid till nearly
dry, and serve with chopped parsley sprinkled
on the top. Use the trimmings for stock.
Turnips
Materials. — Turnips, J oz. fat per lb., a
little chopped parsley.
156 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
Method. — Cut up and shape into small
balls like new turnips. Use the trimmings
in soup. Place in a saucepan, add | oz. fat
per lb., cover with water and salt, boil
freely till tender. When done, reduce the
liquid quickly so that only sufficient moisture
is left as gravy. If liked, add a little white
sauce, but that is not necessary. Sprinkle
with chopped parsley.
Salsify
Materials. — Salsify, 1 tablespoonful of
flour, 1 quart cold water, J oz. salt, juice of
half a lemon, 1 or 2 oz. chopped suet, white
sauce (see p. 41), Yorkshire pudding.
Method. — Wash and scrape the salsify.
Place the flour in a saucepan and stir while
adding the water. Add the suet and season
with salt and lemon juice. Boil this mixture
while stirring over the fire. As soon as a
piece of salsify is scraped it should be
washed piece by piece in a basin of water,
and then dropped into the boiling liquid.
When all is done boil freely till tender,
drain, and serve with white sauce or gravy.
Salsify Yorkshire Pudding
Cut the cooked salsify small, mix with
VEGETABLES 157
Yorkshire pudding, and bake like a York-
shire pudding.
Use the hquid which remains for soup,
adding vegetables and barley.
Creamed Spinach
Materials. — Spinach, |- oz. fat per lb. of
spinach, J gill of water, a little diluted corn
flour, a pinch of nutmeg, salt and pepper.
Method. — Wash the spinach in plenty of
water until free from grit. Place the fat
and clean water in a saucepan, add the
spinach, and simmer until tender. Remove
the spinach, drain and chop fine. Reduce
the liquid, bind with a little corn flour
mixed in cold milk to make a stiff cream
sauce, add the spinach and season to taste
with a little salt, nutmeg and pepper.
There should be 1 or 2 tablespoonfuls of
sauce for 1 lb. of spinach. Do not overcook
the spinach.
Carrots and Turnip Tops
The young green tops of carrots and
turnips, together with tender outside leaves
of cabbage, should be boiled in salted water
for about 5 minutes, then drained and
refreshed by running cold water over them,
158 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
which will remove the bitterness of the
vegetables. Chop all fine or pass through a
mincer. Heat 1 oz. fat per lb. of greens,
add the vegetables and a little moisture,
milk or gravy, salt, pepper and nutmeg.
Cover with a lid and simmer until quite
cooked. A little thickening may be added
at the finish. This has a taste like curly kale.
Stewed Beetroot
Materials. — 1 or 2 beetroots, 1 oz. fat,
1 sliced onion, salt and pepper, 1 tablespoon-
ful of vinegar.
Method. — Slice the beetroots thinly. Put
the fat into a saucepan and add the onion.
Cook till only fairly coloured, then add the
beet and season with salt and pepper. Stew
without adding any liquid until the onion
is cooked ; then add the vinegar and cook
for 15 minutes more. If desired creamy,
add a little corn flour mixed smoothly in
cold water, toss well together, and let come
to the boil. A little fried bacon or gravy
can be added if liked.
Scarlet Runners
Materials. — | oz. fat per lb. of beans, a
pinch of salt.
VEGETABLES 159
Method. — Cut the beans into strips, place
in a saucepan with a pinch of salt and the
fat. Add water to surface of the beans,
cover with a lid and bring to the boil. \Mien
nearly done, remove the lid and cook quickly
to reduce the liquid ; when nearly dry and
cooked, dish up. Do not add too much
salt.
Haricot Stew
Materials. — J oz. fat, 1 oz. chopped
onion, | oz. flour, 1 pint of cooked dried
haricot beans, 1 tablespoonful vinegar or
Worcester sauce, a little chopped parsley.
Method. — Fry the onion in the fat, when
cooked add the flour. Mix well, then add
the beans, cover wuth w^ater or vegetable
stock, and season with salt and pepper.
Let stew together, tossing from time to
time. Add the vinegar or Worcester sauce ;
stew for 10 minutes after the vinegar is
added, then dish up, sprinkled with chopped
parsley.
Peas and red haricots can be cooked in
the same way.
StuSed Cabbage
Materials. — 1 cabbage ; when cooked, weigh
and add an equal amount of chopped onion
160 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
and of sausage meat, bread stuffing (see
p. 56), or cooked rice (see Risotto, p. 138),
1 oz. fat, 1 dried egg, a little corn flour,
1 teaspoonful chopped parsley, spice and
seasoning.
Method. — Cut off the root end and remove
the outside leaves of a firm cabbage. Wash,
then boil in salted water for 5 minutes.
Cut out the stalk carefully without breaking
the cabbage, remove the inside (heart),
leaving 1 inch thickness of cabbage. Chop
the removed cabbage finely, mix with the
onion and fry in the fat. When fried, add
sausage meat or bread stuffing or cooked
rice, and mix well, then add the egg, chopped |
parsley, spice and seasoning to taste. Fill ■
in the hollow of the cabbage, tie roimd
with string, and place in a greased casserole
root end downwards. Half cover with
water or vegetable stock and sprinkle with
salt. Bring to the boil, cover with a lid,
and place in the oven to cook for 1 hour,
basting from time to time. When done,
remove the cabbage carefully and cut away
the string. Reduce the liquid to the
amount required, thicken with corn flour
mixed smoothly in cold water or stock,
season, pour over the cabbage and serve
in the casserole.
VEGETABLES 161
When rice is used for filling add, if possible,
grated cheese, and when bread is used 1 or
2 oz. chopped nuts, in order to increase the
food value.
Cabbage
Quarter the cabbage, remove the stalk,
and shred the cabbage coarsely. It may
also be kept in quarters, tied with string
and then cooked as directed. Place in a
saucepan with 1 gill of water and 1 oz. of
fat for each lb. of cabbage. Cover with a
lid, cook slowly till tender, stir with a fork
from time to time. About 20 minutes'
cooking is required.
Creamed Cabbage
Add to the stoved chopped cabbage
1 tablespoonful or more of white sauce.
Simmer together for a few minutes.
Potato Omelet
Materials. — | oz. fat, half-teaspoonful or
less of chopped onion, 1 lb. mashed potatoes
(or baked potatoes are better), salt, pepper
and nutmeg, 1 teaspoonful of chopped
parsley.
Method. — Fry the onion and fat together
II
162 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
in an omelet pan. Mix the potato, salt,
pepper, nutmeg and parsley together ; add
to the fried onion and heat thoroughly.
Make into omelet shape, cook until it
colours, and then turn out on a hot dish.
One or more eggs added to the above will
of course make it more substantial. Minced
meat, chopped cheese or nuts can also be
added.
Potato Cheese en Casserole
Materials. — 1 lb. raw potatoes, salt,
pepper and nutmeg, 2 oz. chopped cheese,
water or milk.
Method. — Slice the potatoes ^ inch thick,
season with salt, pepper and a little nutmeg.
Arrange in layers in a casserole, sprinkle
the cheese between the layers, and when all
is in, half fill the casserole with water or
milk and sprinkle more cheese on the top.
Cover with the lid and bake in the oven for
1 hour, then remove the lid and allow to
colour.
One or two slices of raw onion at the
bottom of the casserole may be added if
desired.
Stuffed Baked Potatoes
Materials. — Some baked potatoes, salt.
VEGETABLES 163
pepper and nutmeg, 2 oz. finely chopped
nuts to each lb. of potatoes, a little chopped
parsley, a little milk, grated cheese and
breadcrumbs, a few drops of salad oil.
Method. — Split the baked potatoes in
halves, take out the pulp, mash with a
fork, add the parsley, salt, pepper and
nutmeg, and moisten with a little milk.
Add the chopped nuts, then refill the shells
(skins) with the mixture, sprinkle with
grated cheese and crumbs mixed, baste
with a few drops of salad oil and bake
to a nice brown colour. The dish may be
varied, adding cooked fish, mince, etc. etc.
Bakers' Potatoes
Materials. — 1 lb. sliced potatoes, salt and
pepper, | pint of water or stock, 4 oz. onion,
1 oz. fat, a little chopped parsley.
Method. — Mix th^ potatoes, salt, pepper,
onion, fat and water or stock together.
Place in a baking-tin and bake for about
1 hour. Dish up, and serve with chopped
parsley on the top.
Potato (Tripe Style)
Materials. — 1 lb. cooked sliced potatoes,
1 oz. fat, 2 oz. shredded onion, a little milk
164 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
and water mixed, salt and pepper and
nutmeg to taste, a little chopped parsley.
Method. — Sweat the fat and onion to-
gether in a casserole, add the potatoes,
cover with milk or half water and milk,
salt and pepper and a little nutmeg. Let
simmer together till creamy, then serve
with chopped parsley sprinkled on the top.
Jacket Potatoes
Method. — Place as many scrubbed and
washed potatoes in a tin as it will hold ;
cover the tin and place in boiling water
or a steamer. Cook for 1 hour. No water
is required in the tin to cook potatoes in
this way, and when done they can be eaten
without the addition of salt. The potatoes
remain intact just as they were when placed
in the tin.
Timbale of Potatoes
Method. — Grease some small timbale
moulds and line with crumbs. Fill with
seasoned dry mashed potatoes, bake in
the oven and turn out. The potatoes may
be mixed with a puree of carrot or turnips,
or with cooked flaked fish or minced meat.
VEGETABLES 165
Potato and Cheese Pudding
Materials. — 8 oz. mashed potato, 2 oz.
grated cheese, a little chopped onion, salt,
pepper or cayenne and nutmeg, 1 beaten
egg, 1 oz. fat, 8 oz. self-raising flour, white
sauce (see p. 41).
Method. — Mix all the ingredients together,
fill in a greased basin and steam for 2 hours.
Serve the pudding with white sauce, to which
add a little grated cheese.
Potato Salad
Materials. — A few small potatoes, pepper
and salt to taste, a little vinegar, chopped
onion and parsley.
Method. — Cook the potatoes in their
jackets ; while hot peel and slice, or use
left over cold potato. Add the onion and
parsley, pepper and salt to taste, and baste
with vinegar. If hot potato is used, toss
and let get cold. A tablespoonful of salad
oil per lb. is a good addition if available.
If the potatoes absorb too much vinegar,
add boiling milk to make the salad
moist.
If a creamy salad is desired, add mayon-
naise sauce, or a very soft-boiled egg may
166 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
also be added instead of the mayonnaise. It
should be well mixed in.
Macaroni Croquettes and Peas
Materials. — 4 oz. macaroni, 2 oz. cheese,
grated or chopped finely, salt, pepper and
nutmeg, a little white sauce (see p. 41), a
few peas to garnish.
Method. — Boil the macaroni in salted
water for 20 minutes; if desired the water
may be flavoured with onion and aromatic
herbs. When done, chop finely. Do not
wash the macaroni after it is cooked ; if it
has to be washed, this should be done by
parboiling it and then throwing the first
water away. Then place again in fresh
boiling water. Put the cooked macaroni
into a saucepan, dry, and add the cheese
either grated or chopped finely. Season
with salt, pepper, or cayenne and nutmeg,
and add sufficient stiff white sauce to make
it creamy. Boil all together and place on a
dish to cool, about | of an inch thick all
over, and when cold cut into squares,
triangles or diamonds, coat with batter and
crumbs, and bake in a hot oven. Garnish
with cooked peas and serve with tomato or
vegetable sauce. Use the macaroni water
VEGETABLES 167
for the sauce. If any remains it may be
used for soup.
Vegetable Marrow and Cereal Salad
Materials. — 1 marrow, 1 chopped onion,
3| tablespoonfuls of oil, 1 gill of rice, 2 gills
vegetable stock or water, salt and pepper,
1 tablespoonful vinegar, a little salad dress-
ing highly seasoned, a few tomatoes, a little
chopped herbs.
Method. — Fry the onion in half a table-
spoonful of oil, add the rice, heat well
together, and cover with twice the amount of
vegetable stock or water, season with salt
and cayenne or paprika. Cook with the
lid tightly on for 20 minutes, then drop into
a basin containing 3 tablespoonfuls of oil,
add the vinegar, and toss from time to time
till cold. Cook the marrow until it is
three-parts done, and then cut into strips
about ^ of an inch thick. Season these well,
and dress in salad dressing highly seasoned.
Mix with the rice, dress in a salad bowl,
arrange tomato round it and sprinkle with
chopped herbs.
Egg, Cress and Haricot Bean Salad
Materials. — Haricot beans (hot and
168 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
cooked), salt, pepper, oil and vinegar, few
chives or spring onions, eggs (as many as
required), little cress and chopped herbs.
Method. — Steam the beans in the usual
way ; then, while hot, season with salt,
pepper, oil and vinegar, and a few chives
or spring onions. Toss from time to time
till cold, and, if dry, add a little liquor.
Boil a number of eggs hard (not longer than
10 minutes), and cool quickly in cold water ;
then shell. Now cut the eggs into slices.
Make, at the last moment, a salad of the
cress, and mix with the beans, dish up, and
garnish with the slices of egg. Sprinkle
chopped herbs on the top.
Tomatoes, peeled and sliced, added to the
above will improve the appearance as well
as the taste of the dish.
Mixed Salad
Materials. — ^A few cold potatoes, salt and
pepper, little chopped onion to flavour, a little
vinegar, a few dozen cooked peas and shrimps,
or any other fish, a little plain salad dress-
ing (see p. 167), a little mayonnaise sauce
(see p. 47).
Method. — Cut a few cold potatoes in
dice, season with salt, pepper and a flavour-
VEGETABLES 169
ing of finely chopped onion, sprinkle with
vinegar, and toss from time to time. Mix
the peas and picked shrimps in the salad
dressing, then mix all with the mayonnaise
sauce, and dish up in a hors-d'oeuvre dish
garnished with a few peas and shrimps.
Vegetable Cutlets
Materials. — 1 oz. chopped onion, | oz.
fat, 1 oz. flour, 1 lb. mixed vegetables from
which stock has been made (they should
be drained as dry as possible), salt and pepper,
pinch of grated nutmeg, a little ground rice
and batter (see p. 233), crumbs, vegetable
sauce.
Method. — Fry the onion in the fat till
cooked but not coloured. Add the flour
and mix with the fat, then chop the mixed
vegetables, add them, and heat all together.
Season with salt, pepper and a pinch of
nutmeg, bind the whole by boiling thor-
oughly, stirring all the time. Place on a
plate to cool. When cold, shape into pear
shape, using ground rice or other flour.
Coat the shapes lightly with batter and
bread or other crumbs. Roll them, still
retaining the pear shape, now bend the
point and press down with a knife or with
170 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
the flat hand. This will form them into
the shape of cutlets. To cook, fry in a
pan with very little fat. When one side is
brown, turn over and fry the other side
likewise, or if fat is not available they
can be baked in the oven by mixing the
crumbs with a very little fat before coating,
then place them on a baking-sheet and bake
in a hot oven until brown.
These are nice cold or hot, served with or
without sauce.
Vegetable Cutlets with Pulse
To the foregoing recipe add an equal
quantity of cooked, sieved or minced pulse,
viz. lentils, haricot beans or peas. It is
preferable to use a small mincing-machine
for this purpose, if available, as it is effective
and clean. All ingredients should be boiled
together, otherwise they will not set firm
enough for the shaping of the cutlets.
Finish as explained before.
Vegetable Cutlets with Egg
To the prepared vegetable mixture add
2 or more hard-boiled eggs chopped finely,
or when dried eggs are used, they can be
VEGETABLES 171
scrambled before adding. In the latter case
they should be well done, so that the mixture
does not become softened by the eggs added.
Vegetable Cutlets with Nuts
To the prepared vegetable mixture add
2 oz. of chopped nuts, and finish as instructed.
Vegetable Cutlets with Cereals
The cereals should be thoroughly cooked,
but as dry as possible. Mix them with the
vegetable mixture and boil well together.
Finish as directed.
Vegetable and Haricot Bean Pie
Materials. — Any kind of vegetables, an
equal quantity of steamed haricot beans,
seasoning to taste, a little Worcester sauce,
mashed potatoes or crust.
Method. — Stove the vegetables as directed
for vegetable stock, cover with water, season
to taste, and add sufficient Worcester sauce
to remove the sweetness of the vegetables.
Let stew together to blend. Put the whole
in a pie dish, let cool, and when cold, cover
with mashed potatoes or crust, and bake
172 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
until the potatoes are coloured or the crust
brown and cooked. The contents being
already cooked, the pie requires heating
only.
When covering a pie dish with mashed
potatoes the easiest method is to place the
potato in a forcing-bag with a star tube,
and force the potato in circle fashion on the
top of the vegetables.
CHAPTER VII
PASTRY, PUDDINGS AND SWEETS:
WITH BUT LITTLE FAT OR SUGAR
•73
What is there to be proud of in waste or
extravagance ?
»74
CHAPTER VII
PASTRY, PUDDINGS AND SWEETS :
WITH BUT LITTLE FAT OR SUGAR
Pastry, Puddings and Sweets
Almost all sweets and pastry require two
of the most restricted articles of food — fat
and sugar, and others which are scarce and
dear. Fats are so scarce that they must
on that account be used only in essential
foods. Sugar is reduced to such a quantity
that it behoves adults to consume but little
of it in order that children and young people
should have their full share, and in most
cases to allow of some part of the ration
being saved for jam-making. Further,
cereals must be used sparingly. Dried fruit
is expensive, and although a valuable
food, is certainly not always worth the price
demanded. Milk and eggs are scarce and
expensive.
For adults, puddings and pastry are a
luxury rather than a necessity, and when
17s
176 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
food-stuffs are claimed for essential purposes,
this custom of serving a sweet course should
be reduced to its minimum, if not abolished
altogether.
Substitutes for cane or beet sugar are
honey, maple syrup, dried fruit, beetroot,
parsnips, carrots, the yam or sweet potato.
These can be used in puddings to supply the
sweetness. Potatoes may be employed to
give bulk, but as even a cooked potato is
largely water, other starches are necessary
to absorb the moisture. It therefore be-
comes essential that some starch be used in
the manufacture of sweets and pastry. Fats
can be replaced in part by alcohol in the
manufacture of cakes and pastry, but not
wholly, so that a small amount of fat is still
necessary.
Certain cereals can be used to assist the
reduction of fat, e.g. maize or oatmeal, which
contain fat. When potato is used in paste
it is necessary to use starch foods having a
high absorbability, such as rice, sago and
tapioca, which at the same time assist to
'' bind." In wheat en flour it is the gluten
which binds, and gluten is only found in
wheaten flour and rye. When using potato
and other starchy non-protein cereals, it is
necessary that this deficiency should be
PASTRY AND SWEETS 177
made good by adding milk powder or pea
flour.
When using but little fat, rice flour and
corn flour help to shorten the pastry. It will
be seen, therefore, that it is yet possible
to supply sweets and pastries by combining
various substances such as are still available,
especially in the preparing of nursery meals,
where the protein and starchy foods are of
primary importance.
Fruit, if fresh, is best eaten raw, as in the
cooking much of its value is destroyed. A
plum or apple eaten raw does not require
any additional flavouring or sugar, but if
cooked, requires sugar at all events to make
it palatable. Thus sugar is saved by eating
raw in preference to cooked fruit. But all
fruit cannot be eaten raw. Rhubarb and
unripe fruit must first be cooked to render
them palatable and fit for food. But though
cooked fruit may taste sour it is best not to
sweeten it too much, as by doing so much of
the value is destroyed.
Fortunately we can often make use of
potatoes in pastry, scones and buns, and
then a little white of egg helps to give them
the required body. Without this addition
they are usually doughy, especially when a
large amount of potato is used.
12
178 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
In making puddings all cereals can be
used, but when employing those which are
short in gluten it is best to scald them or
boil them partially and then add the other
ingredients to them. Steaming is the best
method of cooking, and very little leavening
power should be used. All sweet, starchy
food should be served more or less solid ;
in a sloppy state it is not wholesome, as
all starch requires thorough mastication in
order to ensure proper digestion. The more
moisture added to cereals the less food value
they possess, except, of course, in the case of
milk, for milk is in itself a valuable food,
which is the reason why milk puddings and
other combinations of cereals and milk are
recommended for children and invalids.
For the same reason milk should not be used
as a drink with solid food instead of water,
for the casein becomes solid in process of
digestion and does not wash out the system
as thoroughly as does water.
Potato and Apple Cheese Cake
Materials. — 1 oz. fat, 2 oz. sugar, 2 dried
eggs, 1 lb. dry mashed potatoes, | pint of
milk, 1 oz. corn or potato flour, 4 oz. chopped
PASTRY AND SWEETS 179
apples, a little golden syrup, some short
paste (see p. 183).
Method. — Cream the fat, sugar and eggs
together ; add the potatoes, milk and corn
or potato flour and mix well together, then
add the apples. Line greased patty pans
with short paste, fill with the mixture and
then cover with slices of apple and bake.
When done, brush the apple over with hot
golden syrup to give a shine on the top.
Special Paste for Fruit Tartlets
Materials. — Equal quantities of potato pie
crust and maize suet paste (see pp. 181 and
182).
Method. — Mix the ingredients together.
This is a paste which will bear fruit juice
well, such as rhubarb, gooseberries or any
other kind. It bakes very well, and has a
texture as if egg had been added.
Tapioca and Potato Paste for Savoury
Pies
Materials. — 1 lb. mashed potatoes, 4 oz.
French granulated tapioca or English
tapioca (soaked overnight in 1 gill of milk
or water), 1 oz. milk powder (this is not
essential), 1 teaspoonful baking powder, 2 oz.
180 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
fat, I oz. salt in all, | lb. rice flour or corn
meal, 1 gill of milk or water.
Method. — Mix the potatoes with the
tapioca and fat, let this rest until the
tapioca has softened by the moisture of the
potato. Now add the rice flour and milk
powder. A little moisture may be necessary
(when milk powder is used, add water,
otherwise milk). Instead of rice flour fine
corn meal can be used.
This paste is specially good for vegetable
and savoury pies.
Pie Paste (without Fat)
Materials. — 1 gill of water, | oz. milk
powder, 4 oz. dry mashed potato, \ oz.
granulated tapioca, 6 oz. rice flour, half-tea-
spoonful baking powder, 1 teaspoonful salt.
Method. — Mix the milk powder, tapioca
and rice flour, add these ingredients
to the water and cook to a stiff paste.
Mix with the potato, and then work into
this the rice flour, baking powder and
salt. The paste is very dry, but will soften
after a time. Before use stand for | to 1
hour, and work well to prevent cracking.
This paste will improve if | oz. fat is added
to the potato before mixing.
PASTRY AND SWEETS 181
Haricot Paste
Materials. — 1 lb. haricot beans (steamed
and sieved), 2 oz. rice flour, ^ oz. salt,
1 oz. fat.
Method. — Scald the rice flour in 1 gill of
boiling water and mix with the beans,
adding the salt and fat. No moisture.
Pie Crust with Ground Rice
Materials. — 4 oz. ground rice, 3 oz.
dripping, a little salt and baking powder,
4 oz. flour, J gill of water.
Method. — Mix the ground rice with the
dripping and a pinch of salt and baking
powder ; add the flour and water, mix into
the dough and let rest before using.
Pie Crust with Potato
Materials. — 8 oz. mashed potatoes, 1 to
1| oz. fat, 4 oz. ground rice, 4 oz. self-
raising flour.
Method. — Rub the fat into the mashed
potatoes ; when thoroughly blended add
the ground rice and let rest for a while, so
that the rice can absorb sufficient moisture.
Then add the self-raising flour and make
182 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
into a short paste. If too dry add a little
moisture, but that is very seldom required.
Be careful not to moisten too much. It is
best to keep the paste fairly firm, otherwise
it will be tough. Roll out, using ground
rice for the purpose, then cover the pie in
the usual manner.
Haricot Beans and Rice Pastry for
Pie Covering
Materials.— 1 lb. cooked haricot beans,
I lb. cooked rice, 1 oz. fat, salt and pepper.
Method. — Mash or mince the haricot beans
with the rice, add fat, salt and pepper.
Mix well together on a floured pastry-
board. Roll out with a rolling-pin and use
to cover the pie instead of paste. This
should be carefully done, as the paste is
brittle. Cut to shape, lift into place with
a slice or two knives, fringe the edges, and
bake in a very hot oven to colour.
Maize Paste
Materials. — | pint of water, 1 oz. fat, a
pinch of salt, 1 gill maize meal, 4 oz. self-
raising flour.
Method. — Boil the water with the salt
PASTRY AND SWEETS 183
and fat, add the raw maize and cook for
10 minutes, stirring meanwhile. Cool until
tepid. Mix with the flour by placing the
flour on board and mixing the maize into it.
Place on a cloth and roll it out. It is so
brittle that it is difficult to handle. Use
for savoury maize rolls and boiled puddings.
Short Paste
Materials. — | oz. rice flour, | oz. tapioca,
J oz. milk powder, 2 gills water, f oz. fat,
I lb. rice flour, | lb. flour, ^ oz. baking powder,
I oz. salt.
Method. — Mix the first three ingredients
cold in one gill of water, and boil until
stiff, stirring all the time. Mix the rice
flour, flour, baking powder, fat and salt
together, add the boiled preparation and
mix all together, adding sufficient water
to make a fairly soft paste (about 1 gill).
Roll and use.
This is excellent for turnovers, pies and
tarts.
Suet Crust (for Dumplings^ Rolls^ Fruit
or Savoury Puddings)
Materials. — 1 lb. flour, 1 lb. raw potatoes,
1 oz. suet, 1 oz. fat (or 2 oz. fat if suet
184 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
cannot be obtained), ^ oz. salt, | oz. baking
powder.
Method. — Put the potatoes through a
mincer, add the flour, suet, fat and baking
powder and sufficient water to make a paste
not too soft.
Ground Rice and Coco-Nut Pudding
Materials. — 2 oz. coco-nut, 1 pint milk,
1 oz. sugar, 2 oz. rice flour or maize semo-
lina, almond essence, | oz. fat.
Method. — Boil the milk, sugar, coco-nut
and rice together, add the flavouring, place
into a pie-dish with the fat on top and bake
to a light brown.
Caramel Pudding
Materials. — 1 pint of milk, 2 oz. sugar,
4 oz. semolina, 1 egg.
Method. — Boil the milk, 1 oz. of sugar
and semolina together, and add the egg.
Caramelise the remaining ounce of sugar,
add a teaspoonful of water, then cook to
a thick syrup. Run this into a mould;
when set fill in with the mixture and place
the mould in boiling water to come to
within half the top of the mould, and cook
slowly till set — about one hour. Cool and
PASTRY AND SWEETS 185
then turn out. The caramel will serve as
sauce. If all the caramel is not dissolved,
add a little water and boil it out.
Maize Batter Pudding
Materials. — 2 oz. maize meal, h pint
water, 3 oz. rice flour, 2 oz. suet, half-tea-
spoonful baking powder, 1 egg^ 1 gill of
milk, 1 oz. sugar, 1 oz. coco-nut, flavouring.
Method. — Boil the water and suet, add
the maize, and cook till the moisture
is absorbed. Add sugar, milk, coco-nut
and egg ; work well. Mix the rice flour
and baking powder together and add to
the other ingredients. Grease a pudding
basin, fill in the material and steam for
2 hours, or divided into four smaller shapes
1 hour would be enough. Serve with jam
or custard.
Monkeys
Materials. — 4 oz. dates or chopped dried
fruit of any kind, a little lemon or orange
peel, spice to taste, 1 oz. coco-nut, a little
jam to bind, some potato paste or short-
bread (see pp. 181 and 192).
Method. — Boil the orange or lemon peel
till tender, then mix with the dates or fruit,
186 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
adding spice to taste, and the coco-nut,
and mix with a little jam to bind. Place
between two layers of potato paste or
potato shortbread, press together with the
blunt side of a pastry cutter, make a hole in
the centre, and bake in a good oven till the
paste is cooked — about 15 minutes or more.
Rhubarb and Rice Cakes
Materials. — 1 gill of rice, 1 pint of milk,
1 bunch of forced rhubarb or 2 sticks of
natural, 1 or 2 tablespoonfuls of golden
syrup, a few drops of almond essence, sugar
to taste, short paste (see p. 183).
Method. — Boil the rice and milk together
for 30 minutes, then add the golden syrup
and almond essence. Shred the rhubarb
and stew till it forms a pulp. Sweeten to
taste. Line a dish with short paste, prick
the bottom. Spread with rhubarb, cover
with the rice, and then wet the edges. Cut
the short paste into strips and arrange
trellis fashion on the top. Bake for 30
minutes. Serve hot or cold. The rhubarb
may be replaced by apple or jam.
Yorkshire Pudding with Fruit
Materials. — Yorkshire pudding mixture.
PASTRY AND SWEETS 187
fruit to garnish, little spiced sugar or other
sweet substance.
Method. — When the usual Yorkshire
pudding mixture is half baked, garnish it
with fruit, such as damsons, bullaces or
any other variety or mixture available.
Finish it by baking, and then sprinkle it
with spiced sugar or any other sweet sub-
stance which may be acceptable, such as
honey or fruit sauce.
Apple Suet Pudding
Materials. — Some sliced apples, sprinkling
of moist sugar and spice, suet paste (see
p. 183).
Method. — Roll the paste out thinly and
line it three-quarters with sliced apples.
Sprinkle with moist sugar and spice. Now
roll the paste up — ^the part which has not
been spread with apples will form a double
cover. The pudding is then cooked in the
usual way. Of course all kinds of fruit
can be used in this recipe. Plums must be
stoned and dried fruit soaked before use.
Bread Dough Galeite
Materials. — Bread dough, jam or grated
188 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
carrot, some apples or other fruit, sugar and
spice to taste.
Method. — Roll out the bread dough and
place it on a baking-sheet. Now turn up
the edges to form a border, spread with jam
or grated carrot, then arrange the fruit
carefully in the centre, allow the bread
dough to rise and bake the whole. When
baked sprinkle the surface with sugar and
spice mixed. This forms not only a sub-
stantial sweet, but a very appetising dish.
Any other fruit may be used.
Maize Pancakes
Materials. — 1 pint of water, 1 gill of
maize semolina, a pinch of salt, 2 eggs,
^ oz. sugar, 4 oz. flour, a little milk (about 1
gill), the grated rind of half a lemon.
Method. — Boil the water, and rain in the
maize semolina and a pinch of salt. Let
slowly cook or steam for a | hour. Turn
out into a basin, mix with the yolks of the
eggs, sugar, flour and sufficient milk to
make a fairly stiff batter. Add the lemon |
rind and the whites of the eggs beaten to a
firm froth, and bake like drop scones.
The pancakes can also be made by adding
prepared flour instead of the ordinary, and
PASTRY AND SWEETS 189
using 1 dried egg instead of two fresh, the
other ingredients remaining the same.
Maize Jam Roll
Materials. — 1 pint of water, 2 oz. chopped
suet (or 1| oz. fat), a pinch of salt, ^ lb.
maize semolina, | lb. prepared flour.
Method. — Boil the water, suet, salt and
maize semolina ; cook by stirring till it leaves
the sides of the pan. Take out of the pan
into a basin and mix with the prepared flour.
Wet a pudding-cloth in cold water, place
the paste on it, and roll out into a square.
Spread the jam over it and roll up by lifting
the cloth. When the roll is shaped, shut
the ends and roll in the cloth, tie loosely and
boil in water (do not steam) for 1| to 2
hours.
Bread Jelly
Materials. — Odd pieces of bread left over,
syrup or sugar to sweeten, a little flavouring
as desired.
Method. — Take any pieces of bread left
over, place in a pan of water, bring to the
boil and place on the back of the stove ;
cover the pan, and simmer as long as possible
— 5 to 8 hours. The bread must not be
190 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
stirred, and as the water will evaporate
more may have to be added. When the
bread breaks up and begins to jelly, sweeten
with syrup or sugar and flavour as desired.
Turn out into a pudding mould and let
cool ; when cold it will be like a jelly. All
cereals — ^tapioca, sago, rice, macaroni — can
be treated like this, so a variety of jellies
can be made without gelatine. They turn
cloudy in the cooling. Fruit juice may be
added, and thus an excellent sweet is made.
Potato Gateau
Materials. — 4 oz. dry mashed potato, 1 oz.
fat, 1 oz. sugar, 1 gill of milk, 1 beaten egg,
flavouring to taste, 1 oz. corn flour or other
starch, 1 tablespoonful of jam, some pie
crust (see p. 181).
Method. — Line a greased sandwich tin
with pie crust. Mix the potato, fat, sugar,
milk, egg, flavouring and corn flour together.
Line the crust with the jam, and pour the
potato mixture in the centre and spread out
level. Bake in a moderate oven for 20
minutes.
The whole can be covered with paste or
with strips of paste in trellis fashion, accord-
ing to taste.
PASTRY AND SWEETS 191
Potato Rocks
Materials. — 1 lb. dry mashed potato,
I lb. rice flour, ^ lb. self-raising flour, 1
tablespoonful oil or 1 oz. of fat, 2 oz. sugar,
4 oz. baked beetroot, flavouring and spice,
1 gill of moisture.
Method. — Cut the beetroot into diamond
shapes. Mix the fat and potato together
thoroughly to make it light, add the rice
flour and mix well. Let this rest as long
as possible, or even prepare the day before
required. Then mix lightly with the other
ingredients, last of all adding the moisture.
Make into rocks with a fork on a greased
baking-sheet, and bake in a fairly hot oven
for from 15 to 20 minutes. The beetroot will
turn sultana colour.
Potato Scones
Materials. — | lb. dry mashed potatoes,
4 oz. rice flour, a pinch of sugar (not essential),
1 beaten white of egg, 4 oz. flour, ^ oz.
baking powder.
Method. — Mix the potato, rice flour, and
sugar together, and allow to rest for a few
hours, then add the loosely beaten white
of egg (or half a dry egg), flour and baking
192 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
powder. Mix lightly into a soft dough,
shape into balls the size required, place on a
floured board and press flat with the lid of a
cocoa tin to form a round. Let rest for 10 to
15 minutes, then place on a girdle or frying-
pan, and bake on the hot-plate or in the oven.
Potato Shortbread
Materials. — | lb. mashed potato, 6 oz.
rice flour, 2 oz. fat, a pinch of salt, 2 oz.
sugar, 2 oz. self-raising flour.
Method. — Work the mashed potato warm
with the fat and sugar and salt, then add
the rice flour, last of all the self-raising
flour, or flour and baking powder. Roll out
on a floured board, cut to shapes desired,
and bake to a very light fawn colour.
Potato and Maize Pudding — 1
Materials. — 1 pint of milk, 1 gill of maize
semolina, ^ lb. dry mashed potato, 1 table-
spoonful of jam, 1 oz. sugar, almond flavour-
ing to taste, 1 oz. desiccated coco-nut, a
little fat.
Method. — Boil the milk, add the semolina
and put in a tin. Cover, and place in boiling
water, or steam for 1 hour. Put the contents
PASTRY AND SWEETS 193
in a basin, mixing in the potato, sugar,
flavouring and coco-nut. Place a layer of
this in a pie-dish, spread with jam and cover
with the remainder of the maize preparation.
Brush over with fat and bake to a nice colour.
The pie-dish should be placed in a baking-
tin with water to prevent overheating at the
bottom of the dish.
Potato and Maize Pudding — 2
Materials. — J lb. maize, | pint of milk,
J lb. dry mashed potatoes, almond flavouring
to taste, 1 oz. ground almonds, 1 beaten egg,
1 oz. sugar or syrup, 1 oz. fat, 4 oz. steamed
or baked chopped beetroot.
Method. — Soak the maize in the milk over-
night for about 8 hours. Add all the re-
maining ingredients, mix together, and bake
in a pie-dish like a bread-and-butter pudding.
The above ingredients will make a steamed
pudding by adding 8 oz. self-raising flour
and steaming for 2 hours or more.
Semolina Cheese Cakes
Materials. — 1 gill maize semolina, 1 pint
of milk and water mixed, sugar or syrup to
sweeten, a little almond essence, a little jam.
13
194 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
Method. — Boil the maize semolina in the
milk and water (or all milk if desired).
Place in a tin and steam for 1 hour. Turn
into a basin, sweeten with the sugar or
syrup, and add the almond essence to flavour.
Line patty pans with potato paste, place a
little jam of any kind at the bottom, cover
with the semolina, and bake in a moderate
oven till nicely coloured — about 20 minutes.
Maize and Marmalade Charlotte
Line some timbale moulds with potato
short paste (see p. 183). One-third fill with
marmalade, then, till three-quarters full, with
the maize prepared as in previous recipe.
Bake for 20 minutes. Turn out, and serve
with custard.
Orange Maize Pudding
Materials. — 2 oz. maize semolina, 1 gill
water, 1 oz. suet or fat, 4 oz. soaked and
squeezed bread crusts, 1 oz. marmalade,
I gill of milk, a pinch of salt, flavour to
taste, and a few drops of cochineal, 2 oz.
self-raising flour.
Method. -^Boil the maize semolina and
fat together in the water. ^Vhen dry, add
PASTRY AND SWEETS 195
the bread, marmalade, milk, salt, flavouring
and cochineal, and last of all mix in the
flour. Steam for 2 hours, and serve with
custard sauce or marmalade sauce.
Sago Jelly
Materials. — | lb. prunes or other dried
fruit, 1 bay leaf, a few cloves, 2 oz. sago,
a few drops of cochineal, almond and
caramel essence, a little diluted corn or
potato flour.
Method. — Boil | lb. prunes in 1 quart of
water, with the bay leaf and cloves, till
tender. When done, remove 1 pint of
the liquid remaining, and slowly boil this
with the sago until the liquid is clear, none
of the sago being visible. Colour with a
few drops of cochineal and caramel to
deepen the prune colour, also a few drops
of almond essence. Pour it, when boiling,
into a wetted mould to set, and dish up
garnished with the remainder of the prunes.
The liquid remaining should be slightly
thickened with diluted corn or potato flour
and poured round the mould.
The same method can be used with any
kind of fruit or fruit juice, and can be served
without the fruit, adding a custard sauce.
196 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
Potato Pudding
Materials. — 1 oz. fat, 2 oz. sugar, 2 eggs,
1 gill of milk, 1 lb. dry mashed potato,
2 oz. dried fruit, 8 oz. self-raising flour,
custard sauce.
Method. — Cream the fat, sugar and eggs
together, add the remaining ingredients,
and mix well. Steam for 2 hours, and
serve with custard sauce (see p. 46).
Potato Souffl6 Pudding
(No Fat except for Greasing the
Mould)
Materials. — 1 lb. dry mashed potatoes,
2 oz. sugar, J pint milk, 2 oz. flour, 2
oz. mixed fruit, a little grated lemon rind,
3 eggs, a little sugar and crushed coco-nut,
a pinch of salt.
Method. — Mix the potatoes, sugar, milk,
the flour, fruit and lemon rind together,
adding a pinch of salt. Stir over the fire
till creamy, then add 1 whole egg and
2 yolks of egg, and mix well. Beat to a
firm froth the 2 whites remaining, add these
to the pudding mixture, folding the mixture
over to blend the whites without too much
working. Grease a quart pudding-mould,
PASTRY AND SWEETS 197
or two pint moulds or smaller sizes, as the
case may be. Next line with sugar or
crushed coco-nut, and fill three-quarters full
with the mixture. Then place the mould
in a saucepan of boiling water (the water
should reach to half the height of the
mould), bring the water to the boil again,
boiling until the mixture has risen nearly
to the edge of the mould. Place the sauce-
pan (without the lid) in a moderate oven,
and cook. Small moulds require 20 minutes,
pints 30 to 40 minutes, quarts 1 hour to
Ij hour. Serve with custard or fruit sauce
(see p. 46).
Apple Charlotte
Materials. — J oz. fat, ^ oz. sugar, 4 oz.
dried apples, a little clove or cinnamon and
lemon rind to flavour, potato short crust
(see p. 183).
Method. — Fry the fat and sugar till toffee
is formed ; add the apples, and cover with
water (about 1 pint). Cook slowly until
the apples break up, then add the flavouring.
Line timbale moulds with potato short
crust, fill with the mixture, and bake for
20 to 30 minutes.
198 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
Baked Maize and Apple Pudding
Materials. — 8 oz. maize semolina, 1 lb.
apples peeled and chopped, 2 oz. sugar or
syrup, 2 beaten eggs (dried), a little fat and
crumbs, 1 clove or little lemon rind, jam or
parsnip sauce.
Method. — Cook the maize semolina in
1 pint and 1 gill of water until dry (about
15 to 20 minutes). Add the apples, sugar
and eggs, and mix all well together. Line
small timbale moulds with fat and crumbs,
fill the mould nearly full with the mixture,
and bake in a moderate oven for 25 to
30 minutes. Serve with jam or parsnip
sauce to which the peelings and the cores
of the apples have been added.
A clove can be placed at the bottom of
the mould, or a little lemon flavour added to
the mixture.
Orange Pudding
Materials. — 8 oz. stale bread, 2 oz. chopped
suet, 1 orange, 2 oz. sugar, custard.
Method. — Soak the bread ; squeeze all
the moisture out and mix with the suet.
A dust of flour is used while chopping the
suet, as it prevents it from sticking to the
chopper. Peel the orange, and shred or
PASTRY AND SWEETS 199
chop the peel finely. Boil it in water until
tender, then add the juice of the orange
and the sugar, and boil all together until
it begins to thicken. Put this with the
bread and suet and mix wxll, then place
in a greased basin and steam for 2 hours.
When done, turn out the pudding, and serve
with custard made with custard powder.
Marmalade may be used in place of the
orange and sugar.
Mince Meat
Materials. — 2 oz. chopped suet, 4 oz.
chopped apples, fried in a little fat, the apple
peels, 2 oz. baked parsnip, 2 oz. beetroot
jam, 5 oz. mixed fruit, or currants, raisins
and dates (elderberry flowers will give the
raisin flavour), the boiled peel of a lemon,
the boiled peel of an orange. Pass all these
through a mincer and then add — a few drops
of caramel, almond essence to taste, the
juice of the orange and lemon, J oz. ground
ginger, J oz. ground cinnamon, | oz. ground
clove, -^ oz. ground nutmeg. Mix all
together and press in a jar for one day before
use. Baked beetroot cut into small dia-
monds may be used instead of sultana
raisins.
200 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
War Christmas Pudding
Materials. — 2 oz. chopped suet, 4 oz.
apples, chopped and fried in a little fat, the
peels of the apples chopped finely, 2 oz.
baked parsnip, 2 oz. beetroot jam, 2 oz.
currants, 2 oz. stoned raisins, 1 oz. dates, 1
lemon (of which the juice is removed to be
mixed in the pudding), boiled in water till
tender. Pass all the above ingredients
through a mincing-machine and add —
I oz. ground ginger, J oz. ground cinnamon,
J oz. ground clove, ^ oz. ground nutmeg, a
few drops of almond essence, 4 oz. prepared
flour (half rice, half standard). When
mixed, put into a greased basin and steam
for 4 hours.
Potato Gnocchi and Raisin Flan
Materials. — Potato pie crust (see p. 181),
I lb. stoned raisins, | pint water, 1 table-
spoonful syrup, a little spice or lemon rind,
I lb. potato gnocchi (see p. 187).
Method. — Line a tin plate with potato
pie crust. Boil the raisins in water, add
the syrup and a little spice or lemon rind.
Prepare the potato gnocchi and cook these
with the raisins for 10 to 15 minutes. Let
PASTRY AND SWEETS 201
cool. Fill the plate with this mixture, wet
the edges, roll out part of the paste and cut
into strips. Arrange these trellis fashion over
the gnocchi preparation and bake in a hot
oven. Serve hot.
Potato Lemon Pudding
Materials. — 1 lb. baked potatoes, 2 oz.
sugar or syrup, the grated rind of a lemon,
2 dried eggs, 4 oz. prepared flour, 1 gill of
milk, custard sauce.
Method. — Take the pulp of the potatoes,
mix with the other ingredients. Grease a
pudding basin, fill in the mixture and steam
for at least 2 hours. Serve with custard
sauce (see p. 46).
CHAPTER VIII
EGG DISHES
One may suffer in health from over-feeding
quite as much as from under-feeding.
CHAPTER VIII
EGG DISHES
To Prepare Dried Eggs
Prepare according to directions on the
box.
The Use of Dried Eggs
These may be used in the same manner as
whole fresh eggs.
Egg Turnovers
Method. — Prepare short paste (see p. 183),
fill with scrambled eggs, and shape as turn-
overs. Bake in a hot oven. Other material
may be added, such as cooked flaked fish,
chopped nuts, cooked chopped potato, grated
cheese, herbs, etc. Serve hot or cold.
Poached Eggs Jardiniere
Materials. — A few mixed vegetables
206 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
(cooked), sufficient white sauce to cream
or bind (see p. 41), eggs.
Method. — Cook the vegetables as directed
for stock (see p. 20) ; drain well. Dry over
the fire and add sufficient white sauce to
bind. Place in a dish, and arrange the
poached eggs on the vegetables.
Egg Aurora
Materials. — 2 hard-boiled eggs, white
sauce and tomato sauce in equal quantities,
breadcrumbs or chopped yolk of hard-boiled
egg-
Method. — Slice the eggs, mix the white
sauce and tomato sauce together, place a
little on a dish, arrange the sliced egg, cover
with sauce, sprinkle with crumbs or chopped
yolk of hard-boiled egg, and bake lightly in
an oven or under a grill.
Omelette with Dried Eggs
Omelettes are made as well with dried
eggs as with fresh. The eggs should be
beaten till thoroughly blended but not frothy.
Season with salt and pepper and any addition
desired, such as parsley, cheese, minced ham,
potato, shrimps, chopped fish, vegetables,
EGG DISHES 207
etc. Only ^ oz. fat should be used for 2 or
3 eggs — more fat spoils the omelette. Have
the fat hot in the pan before adding the
eggs. Be careful when using dried eggs not
to add more water than three times the weight
of egg, otherwise the mixture will separate
in the cooking, and they must be thoroughly
soaked for at least 12 hours and be quite
smooth.
Baked Marrow or Cucumber and Egg
Materials. — 1 marrow, thick white sauce
(see p. 41), a little grated cheese, tomato
or other sauce, seasoning to taste, 1 egg (hard
boiled), a little flour and frying batter or
crumbs, some mashed potato.
Method. — Cook the marrow (see p. 149),
but keep fairly firm, drain, and trim the
pieces 2 inches by 2 inches. Mash the
trimmings, which boil with a thick white
sauce as stiff as possible, mix with grated
cheese and season highly, as without this
marrow is insipid. Cut the egg into dice
or chop finely, or, if desired, slice it. Put
this into the sauce and sandwich the two
slices of marrow together. It is essential
that the marrow should be well dried, other-
wise the pieces will not hold together. When
208 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
cold pass through flour, and also through
frying batter, or through coating batter and
breadcrumbs, and bake in a hot oven to a
golden colour. Serve with tomato or other
sauce. This dish may be garnished with
mashed potato or other vegetable ; and
instead of egg, minced or sliced meat or nuts
may be used.
Poached Eggs with Peas Pur6e Baked
Materials. — Peas, seasoning to taste, a
little fat or milk, some poached eggs, white
sauce (see p. 41), grated cheese.
Method, — Steam the peas, and when done
pass through a sieve. Split peas are the
best for this purpose. Season, and add a
little fat and milk. Make a bed of this on a
baking-dish (fireproof), place on it a number
of poached eggs, well drained and cooked
not more than 8 minutes, sauce over with
thick white sauce, which should be boiling
hot, or when placed in the oven it will become
thin, and then the sauce will run down off
the eggs, spoiling the appearance of the dish,
and hardening the eggs during the process
of baking. Sprinkle with grated cheese, and
bake quickly to a nice brown colour.
EGG DISHES 209
Eggs Poulette
Materials. — 2 hard-boiled eggs, | oz. of fat,
1 onion, J pint white sauce (see p. 41), a
few sliced cooked mushrooms, a few drops of
lemon juice, a little chopped parsley.
Method. — Slightly fry the onion in the fat
and cut in slices, and mix this with the white
sauce and cook till the onions are done. Add
the mushrooms and lemon juice. Slice the
eggs, mix all together, heat thoroughly, and
dish up with chopped parsley sprinkled on top.
Scrambled Eggs with Bread Sauce
Materials. — 2 oz. bread, J pint cold milk,
salt and pepper and nutmeg or mace, 2
dried eggs, e.g., 1 oz. dried egg and 3 oz. or
3 tablespoonfuls of water.
Method. — Break up the bread and pour
the cold milk over it, season to taste. Boil
very slowly. The bread will break up easier
this way than when breadcrumbs are used.
When soft, work well to make it creamy,
or pass through a sieve. Add to this the
dried eggs. (It takes about 8 hours to soak
for granulated eggs and 1 hour for powder.)
Work well together, then scramble all to-
gether and season to taste.
14
210 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
No fat is required.
This makes a creamy mass, and of course
much larger quantity than when eggs alone
are used.
Maize and Egg Savoury
Materials. — Polenta (see p. 121), scrambled
egg, a little grated cheese or breadcrumbs.
Method. — Cut the polenta into pieces,
cover with a cushion of scrambled eggs,
sprinkle with grated cheese, and bake to a
golden brown.
Maize Woodcock
Materials. — Scrambled eggs, a round of
polenta (see p. 121), a few fillets of anchovy.
Method. — Lay a layer of scrambled eggs on
a square or round of polenta. Place a few
fillets of anchovy crosswise on the top, and
heat in the oven.
Buck Rarebit
Materials. — A round or square of polenta,
a tablespoonful of rarebit mixture, a poached
egg-
Method. — Spread the cheese mixture on
the polenta. Bake to a golden brown, place
the poached egg, well drained, on the top.
EGG DISHES 211
How to Poach an Egg
Boil sufficient water in a small pan to cover
the egg, add 1 tablespoonful of vinegar.
When it boils, place the whole egg with shell
on a tablespoon and dip it in the boiling
liquid for 2 or 3 seconds. Take the egg out,
break it and drop it directly over the surface
of the water in the liquid, or break the egg on
a saucer and carefully let it slide into the
boiling liquid. Cover with the lid, remove
the pan off the fire. Let poach for 3
minutes, then carefully take out the egg^
place in warm water to wash the vinegar
away, and drain on a cloth.
To place it on toast, hold the toast to the
side of the egg and lift the egg with the cloth
so that the egg turns over on to the toast.
Polenta may be used instead of toast.
Poached eggs can be served with any
garnish and sauce.
CHAPTER IX
BREAD, CAKES AND SCONES
Knowledge is power : let us be ready to
learn all we can.
914
CHAPTER IX
BREAD, CAKES AND SCONES
Potato Sandwich or Cake
Materials. — 2 oz. fat, 2 oz. sugar, 3 eggs
(dried or fresh), 1 teaspoonful baking
powder, little beetroot jam (see p. 227),
1 lb. mashed potato, grated rind of half
a lemon, J lb. rice flour, 1 tablespoonful
whisky or brandy.
Method. — Cream the fat and sugar, then
add the eggs little by little, and the potato
and lemon rind, and beat as lightly as
possible. Mix the rice flour and baking
powder thoroughly together and pass through
a sieve, and add this to the mixture, together
with the whisky or brandy. Grease and
flour two sandwich tins, or prepare a cake
hoop similarly with paper at the bottom
to form a drum. Fill with the mixture,
spread smooth, and bake in a moderate oven.
When cold spread with jam, or split the
cake and line with beetroot jam.
215
216 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
Note. — To form a drum is to place a
paper on the table, put the cake hoop on
this, and fold the edges round the border
of the tin to form a drum.
Ginger Cake
Materials. — 8 oz. dry mashed potato,
2 oz. fat, 2 oz. syrup, \ oz. ginger and 1
teaspoonful of other spice (clove, cinnamon
or nutmeg), half-teaspoonful bicarbonate of
soda, 4 oz. corn flour, 4 oz. ordinary flour.
Method. — Cream the mashed potatoes
with the fat, syrup and spice, and then
mix lightly with the other ingredients.
Bake like an ordinary cake for 1 hour. Add
a little milk if necessary.
Ginger Nuts (no Fat)
Materials. — 8 oz. dry mashed potato, 1 oz.
syrup, 4 oz. rice flour, 4 oz. self-raising flour,
4 oz. chopped baked beetroot, 1 teaspoonful
ginger (heaped), 1 gill of water or milk.
Method. — Mix all the ingredients together,
dissolve the syrup in the moisture, add a
pinch of salt. Roll on the pastry-board to
form a roll, flatten slightly and cut into
slices I inch thick. Bake on a greased
BREAD, CAKES AND SCONES 217
baking-sheet for 15 to 20 minutes. When
half baked, turn over and finish cooking.
Maize Sandwich Cake
Materials. — | lb. finest maize semolina,
I pint of milk, 2 oz. fat, 2 oz. sugar, 3 dried
eggs, 4 oz. mashed potato, rind of half a
lemon, a few drops of almond essence, 1
tablespoonful spirit, | lb. self-raising flour,
juice of half a lemon.
Method. — Soak the maize in the milk for
8 to 12 hours. Cream the fat and sugar,
add the eggs and potato, lemon rind and
almond essence, and beat to make as light
as possible. Now add the maize and self-
raising flour, lemon juice and spirit. Place
in a cake tin or sandwich tins and bake in
a moderate oven. If baked as a sandwich,
spread with jam.
Potato and Jam Rings
Materials. — 2 oz. syrup, | lb. potato
pur6e, I oz. fat, 1 teaspoonful baking
powder, 1 dried egg^ J lb. rice flour, | lb.
standard flour, jam for filling.
Method. — Mix the syrup, potato pur6e,
fat and egg together, beating as lightly
218 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
as possible. Add the rice flour, standard
flour and baking powder. Fill in a forcing-
bag with star or rose tube and force out on
to a baking-sheet, greased and dusted with
flour, to form rings. Bake in a moderate
oven. When baked, fill the centre with
jam.
Hot Potato Cake
Materials. — 1 lb. mashed potato, 2 oz. fat,
2 oz. sugar, a pinch of salt, a little flavouring
(lemon or vanilla), 2 eggs, a few bread-
crumbs, syrup.
Method. — This is made with cooked
potatoes, preferably baked. Mix the potato,
fat, sugar, the yolks of the eggs, salt,
and flavouring to taste, lightly fold in the
white of eggs beaten to a firm froth. Line
a cake tin with fat and breadcrumbs and
fill with the mixture. Bake for about
30 minutes and serve with syrup, or if any
juice is left over from the stewed fruit, boil
this up and thicken with diluted potato or
corn flour to a light syrup, and use.
Potato Rock Cakes
Materials. — | lb. dry mashed potatoes,
1 dessertspoonful of oil or fat, 4 oz. rice
BREAD, CAKES AND SCONES 219
flour, 4 oz. ordinary flour, f oz. baking
powder, | oz. spice, | oz. sugar and beet-
root chips or fruit.
Method. — Mix the mash with the oil ;
add the rice flour, and let rest for 12 hours
or more, then mix with the other ingredients
but do not add any moisture. Prepare by
cutting with a fork parcels of paste, place
these on a baking-sheet and spread out to
make them look larger. Let rest for 10 to
15 minutes, then bake in a sharp oven.
Maize and Potato Cakes
Materials. — \ pint milk, \ lb. potato
puree, 1 gill maize meal, a little jam and
flour, J oz. fat, 1 oz. sugar or syi'up, almond
flavouring.
Method. — Boil the milk w^ith the potato,
maize meal and fat for 20 minutes ; add
the syrup or sugar and almond flavouring
to taste. Place on a dish to cool quite
level, or fill a bread tin with the mixture.
When cold cut into squares or slices, dust
with flour, grease a frying-pan or baking-
sheet and fry or bake to a nice colour. Serve
with jam.
Turn Overs
Materials. — Potato short paste (see p. 181),
220 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
a few apples, a little moist sugar or syrup, a
few cloves.
Method. — Roll out the potato pie paste
and cut into rounds ; wet the surface.
Chop up the apples, mix with a little moist
sugar or syrup, and place in the centre of the
rounds, also 1 clove in each. Fold the
paste to enclose the apples, press the ends
well together, prick a hole in the centre,
and bake in a good oven for about 20
minutes.
The above filled with beetroot jam or any
other filling are equally good.
Potato Bread
Materials. — 1 lb. bread dough, J lb. dry
mashed potato.
Method. — Mix well together, place in
gi-eased and floured tins, let prove, and bake
as usual.
Pea Bread
Materials. — 1 gill of yellow split peas.
Method. — Steam the split peas, soaked for
24 hours (this gives | lb. of cooked peas),
pass through a sieve, and mix as directed
for potato bread.
Lentils and haricot beans can be used
BREAD, CAKES AND SCONES 221
in the same manner, but peas give the
best flavoured bread.
Potato Buns
Materials. — | lb. mashed potato, 4 oz.
rice flour, J lb. ordinary yeast dough, ^ oz.
sugar, a little spice, 1 oz. liquid fat, fruit
or beetroot chips.
Method. — Mix the potato with the rice
flour and let this rest for 12 hours or more.
A natural ferment will change part of the
starch into sugar, and the paste will be quite
sweet after that time. To the bread dough
add the prepared mixture, spice, sugar and
the liquid fat or oil, fruit or beetroot chips.
Shape into buns, place on greased tins dusted
with flour, cover and let fully prove, then
bake in a hot oven for 15 to 20 minutes.
Potato Rolls
Materials. — | lb. bread dough, 1 lb.
mashed potatoes, | oz. fat, 1 egg, a little salt.
Method. — Mix the ingredients into a stiff
paste and form into rolls. Place on a cloth
sprinkled thickly with rice flour (this must
be used again), allow to rise, not quite full,
turn over on the baking-sheet, and then bake
222 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
in a hot oven. These can be made with
baking powder, in which case leave for 10 to
15 minutes before baking.
The rolls flattened with a rolling-pin,
lightly spread with beetroot or other jam,
rolled and baked, are good for children's teas.
Potato Scones
Materials. — 1 lb. dry mashed potatoes,
I oz. fat, 1 white of egg, a little salt, | lb.
self-raising flour.
Method. — Mix the ingredients together,
adding moisture, if necessary, to make a soft
dough. Shape into scones, and allow to
rest for 10 to 15 minutes, then bake in the
oven or on the hot-plate or girdle.
If the scones are baked in a frying-pan
covered with a lid, they are then kept free
from draught during the cooking and are
very successful. When risen, turn over, and
finish baking.
Drop Scones
Materials. — J lb. dry mashed potato, 1
whole beaten egg, | lb. prepared flour, a
little water and milk, a little salt and a pinch
of sugar.
Method. — Mix the potato, egg, flour, salt
BREAD, CAKES AND SCONES 223
and sugar with sufficient water and milk
to make a stiff batter. Drop the mixture
on a Hghtly greased hot-plate or in a frying-
pan, and, when set, turn over, but do not let
them rest too long on one side. Potatoes
lose body in the cooking; it is, therefore,
better that all paste made with potato
should be kept firm, that is without much
liquid.
Maize and Potato Bread
(A Bread of which One cannot Eat
Much)
Materials. — 1 lb. potatoes, | oz. salt,
^ lb. maize semolina, 1| lb. flour, 1 oz.
yeast, 4 oz. rice flour.
Method. — Boil the potatoes and | oz. of
salt in water. When done, drain (reserve
the water) and mash. Return the potato to
the liquid, which should be 1 pint. Boil
again, and add the maize, cooking until all
moisture has been absorbed. Place in a tin
or double cooker and steam for 1 hour.
Prepare a bread dough with the flour, yeast
and I oz. salt. When the maize is cooked,
turn out and allow to cool until just tepid,
then mix with the bread dough. Shape into
loaves, and place in greased bread tins,
224 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
using the rice flour in the shaping. This
will give 4 J lb. of bread, which will keep
well and is very satisfying.
Potato Toast
Materials. — 6 oz. mashed potatoes, dry
and warm, 1 oz. rice flour, half-teaspoonful
of baking powder, a little salt.
Method. — Mix together, spread on a
greased and floured baking-sheet, and bake.
Cut into squares, and then toast in the oven.
Or mix 1 lb. of mashed potatoes with 1
beaten egg (fresh or dried), season, and then
spread out on a greased and floured baking-
sheet. Prick all over, bake in the oven until
a golden brown, cut into squares or fingers,
and dry in the oven.
Haricot Beans and Rice Biscuits
Materials. — Same ingredients as in the
recipe on p. 181, adding 4 oz. rice flour.
Method. — Add sufficient rice flour to the
other ingredients to form a fairly stiff paste.
Roll out, and cut with a tin lid. Place on a
baking-sheet ; prick with a skewer, and bake
till crisp.
CHAPTER X
SUNDRIES, INCLUDING POCKET
LUNCHES AND INVALID DISHES
15
What is asked of our fighting men ? Their
lives — their hmbs. What is asked of us?
Economy in Food and in Fuel.
22^
CHAPTER X
SUNDRIES, INCLUDING POCKET
LUNCHES AND INVALID DISHES
Beetroot Jam
Materials. — 2 lb. beetroot, 1 oz. sago,
I lb. raspberry or other strongly flavoured
jam, a little almond essence or raspberry
flavour, cochineal.
Method. — Roll the beetroot in a sheet of
paper and bake like a baked potato, or
place in a tin after thoroughly scrubbing
and washing, but do not break the skin, or
the beet will bleed. Allow about 2 hours
to cook. WTien done, peel and pass through
a mincing-machine until quite fine. Soak
the sago for 12 hours or more in 1 pint of
cold water, then boil until clear, and add
the beetroot. This should be done in a
preserving - pan. Then add the jam, and
boil on until thick enough, and then add
the flavouring, and pour into jars.
This jam will keep for a week, but if desired
227
228 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
to preserve for longer, the jars must be
placed in water and slowly boiled until at
boiling heat right through — about 20 minutes.
Then cook at once. The jam will then
keep like any preserve, and, when opened,
will remain good for 3 days.
Red Currant Jelly (Imitation)
Materials. — 2 oz. tapioca, 1 lb. grated
beetroot, 2 bundles of forced rhubarb, 4 to
8 oz. sugar.
Method. — Soak the tapioca in 1 pint of
water for 12 hours. Boil this in a preserving-
pan, adding the beetroot and rhubarb,
shredded finely, with skin and all. Boil
till clear, strain the liquid, add the sugar,
then boil until 1 pint remains. Pour into
a jar and let it set. Any apple parings
can be added. Small beetroots are best for
this purpose.
Apricot and Carrot Jam
Materials. — 1 lb. grated carrot, 4 oz.
dried apricots, 1 oz. sago, 4 oz. sugar, a
little almond essence to taste.
Method. — Soak the apricots for 24 hours,
then boil with the carrot in 1 pint of water
SUNDRIES 229
in which the sago has been previously
soaked. Add the sugar, and boil until clear,
flavouring with almond essence to make
1 pint.
The liquid of any apple peelings and cores
available, first boiled in water until done
and then strained, can be used with the
above instead of water.
Marmalade — 1
Materials. — 1 orange, half a lemon, 2 oz.
tapioca or J oz. agar-agar (a vegetable
gelatine), 4 oz. sugar, colouring.
Method. — Cut the rinds of the orange and
lemon, shred finely, place in cold water, and
bring to the boil. Strain the water off,
and cover with fresh water and boil until
tender. Soak the tapioca or agar-agar until
soft, add to the shredded peel, and make
up to f of a pint. Now add the sugar and
juice of the fruit, bring to the boil, and cook
till three-quarters of the original quantity
is left, then pour into a dry, warm jar at
once to set.
Marmalade — 2
Materials. — 1 orange, 1 lemon, 8 oz.
grated carrot, 2 oz. soaked tapioca, 8 oz.
230 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
sugar, almond essence to taste, colour —
cochineal or caramel.
Method. — Boil the skins of the orange and
lemon in water for 5 minutes, then remove
the water and add fresh. Then boil the
skins until tender ; remove the greater
part of the pith of the skins, shred the re-
mainder, place in a preserving-pan with the
red part only of the grated carrot. Add
the' tapioca (soaked overnight for at least
12 hours) and sugar, bring to the boil,
skim, cover with a lid, and simmer for 30 to
40 minutes. Add a few drops of almond
essence to taste, and pour into hot jars.
This should produce 2 lb. of preserve.
Potato Cheese
Materials. — 1 lb. mashed potato, 2 oz. fat,
2 oz. rinds of cheese grated finely or chopped,
1 oz. salt, cayenne (as much as will lie on
a sixpence), 1 gill of milk, 4 oz. potato
flour, 1 oz. milk powder, 1 teaspoonful of
mustard, colouring.
Method. — Work all the ingredients well
together, place over the fire and stir until
boiling hot. Place in a muslin in a basin
with a saucer or small plate on the top.
SUNDRIES 231
When cold, take out of the basin and keep
for one week before use.
This will cut like cheddar cheese. Crushed
with a fork and with a little white sauce
added, it forms a creamy mixture which
makes excellent rarebits when spread on
polenta or toast and baked until just browned
in a fairly hot oven or under the gas grill.
Maize Crumbs
Materials. — | pint of water, J oz. of
salt, I lb. maize semolina, 5 oz. rice
flour.
Method. — Boil the water and salt, add the
maize, then stir, and keep over the fire till
all the moisture is absorbed. Turn out
on a pastry-board and allow to cool. Mix
with the rice, flour and crumb all ; when
quite free grain from grain, pass through
a coarse sieve or colander. Three-quarters
fill a cocoa tin loosely with the crumbs,
cover with a muslin and the lid, then place
in boiling water, or steam for f of an hour.
Remove the lid, turn out the contents on
a sieve, lightly break up and pass without
pressure through the sieve again. These
will keep any time.
If they are too dry after a while, moisten
232 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
with water and rub between the hands to
make them like fresh crumbs.
Savoury Spice
Materials. — 1 oz. thyme flower only, 1 oz.
bay leaves, J oz. dried parsley, 1 oz. pepper-
corns, I oz. allspice, | oz. nutmeg, J oz.
clove, I oz. ginger.
Method. — Dry and crush all the above
ingredients, then pass through a sieve or
coffee-mill, place in a tin, and use as directed.
1 oz. of the above spice added to 1 lb. of
fine salt forms prepared salt for stuffings,
force meat, sausages, etc.
Spiced Sauce
Materials. — 4 oz. shallot and onion
chopped finely, 1 gill mushroom ketchup,
J gill golden syrup or treacle or brown
sugar, 1 gill anchovy sauce, 1 quart vinegar,
1 clove of garlic, 16 allspice and 8 cloves
powdered, 2 teaspoonfuls of mixed spice,
1 teaspoonful ground ginger, 1 teaspoonful
mustard, cayenne pepper.
Bottle the whole, shake occasionally. Use
14 days after bottling.
SUNDRIES 233
Extract of Fat and Gelatine from Bones
Break the bones small, place in a jar,
add 1 gill of water to each pound of bones,
seal the jar as tightly as possible, and steam
for 6 hours.
Examples. — 7 oz. loin of mutton bone
produced — 1 oz. fat, 2 oz. jelly, Ij oz. meat.
1 lb. 9 oz. veal bones produced — 2i oz. fat,
I gill or 5 oz. jelly, 8 oz. meat. 4 lb. beef
bones, leg and loin, produced — 5 oz. fat,
II oz. jelly, 10 oz. gristle and meat.
The jelly should be used in pies, the gristle
for croquettes, rissoles, patties, and various
other preparations mentioned in the recipes
in this book.
To Make Coating Batter
This batter is used instead of egg on
rissoles, etc.
Mix 4 oz. of flour or a mixture of flour
(half of which must be wheat en flour) w^ith
half a pint of water or milk, or w^ater and
milk, and a pinch of salt. WTien the articles
coated are to be baked, a little oil added
to the batter is most helpful to give a good
colour to the crumbs.
To make batter for coating fish or other
substances baked instead of fried, less
234 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
moisture must be used. It should be so
thick that it hangs on well, and at least half
a gill of oil should be added with the liquid
and baking powder (see Frying Batter).
Fats
Fats must be used as moderately as
possible. Oil, if obtainable, is an economical
fat. It may be used with coco-butter with
good results.
An Inexpensive Frying Batter without Egg
Mix 2 tablespoonfuls of self-raising flour
with a dessertspoonful of oil, salt, pepper
and sufficient milk or water to make the
batter. This should adhere to the material
to be cooked, but it should not be too stiff.
Suitable for sweet (without pepper) or
savoury dishes and for frying or baking.
The Use of Stale Bread
The bread should be dried in an oven, and
stored either whole or ground and passed
through a sieve. The crumbs are used for
bread crumbing, stuffings, etc., the whole
bread being soaked for puddings and soups.
SUNDRIES 235
Bread Panada
Soak 2 oz. of bread in milk or water, drain
well, and stir over the fire to boiling-point
until a stiff paste is formed.
Biscuit Meal
Any left over (raw) paste from pies, etc.,
should be rolled out and baked, dried in a
very slow oven, crushed and sieved, and
kept in a tin. When soaked it absorbs
much water — roughly 2 quarts to 1 lb. of
biscuit meal.
Butter^ Margarine^ Dripping, Lard, Oil,
Coco-Butter
Butter is not used for cooking now, and
margarine is generally needed for table use.
If margarine is used for cooking it should
be clarified before use, as the substance used
for binding the fats usually sets to the
bottom of the pan, to which many failures
in frying are due. All skimmings from
stocks should be kept carefully, and water
added, then boiled up and strained. When
cold, remove the fat, scrape the bottom of
same, and clarify. This fat is the best of all
for use in the kitchen.
236 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
To Clarify Coco-Butter
Boil with plenty of water, and cool.
Change the water and repeat the boiling.
If this is done two or three times much of
the coco flavour disappears.
Use in moderation combined with other
fats and oil.
To Use up Pickle Liquid
When pickles are used up there remains
vinegar or mustard vinegar in the bottle.
To utilise this, cut a carrot into pieces and
boil for 5 minutes, put into a basin, sprinkle
with salt, add a dozen small onions, a few
pieces of cauliflower cooked for 5 minutes,
and any other available vegetable. Sprinkle
the whole with salt and let stand 24 hours.
Boil the vinegar, to which add sufficient
fresh vinegar to cover the vegetables. Boil
together, then place in a jar and cover.
After 2 or 3 days drain the vegetables. Boil
the vinegar down to full strength, and if it
tastes too watery add more vinegar, then
pour in the vegetables and give one boiL
Place the vegetables in the jars and pour
the vinegar over.
If mustard pickles are wanted, mix a little
SUNDRIES 237
mustard powder with corn flour, using half
as much flour as mustard, and mix with cold
vinegar to a paste. Pour over the boiling
vinegar like a custard, stir, and then pour
over the vegetables. Seal up, and keep for a
week before using.
To Use Cabbage and Cauliflower Stalks
as Pickles
The tender parts of cabbage and cauli-
flower stalks, when skinned, cut in neat
pieces, and placed in salt for 24 hours with
other vegetables, are useful to add to pickles.
Celery Flavouring
The outside of celery should be washed and
skinned, dried in the oven, pulverised and
mixed with salt to make celery salt. The
green tops can be dried in the oven and then
reserved for flavouring when celery is not
available.
Cheese Rind
Thoroughly remove the canvas and scrape
the rind clean, then chop or grate. Use for
rarebit, gratin dishes, etc. This hard, dry
cheese is better for cooking than soft cheese.
238 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
To Soak a Dried Egg for Quick Use
Cover the dried egg with tepid water, put
in a warm place, and stir frequently until the
egg is dissolved. Pass through a muslin
before using. It is much better, however, to
soak the egg overnight.
To Save Fat in Sauces
When fat is not available for making
sauces, the best method for thickening is to
make a batter with flour, corn flour, arrow-
root or potato flour, and cold water, and run
this into the boiling liquid, then allow it
to come just to the boil. On the first sign
of boiling withdraw it from the fire.
To Toughen a Casserole
Boil in water, rub the outside with an
onion, and then fill with water and place on
the fire to boil.
The best method of strengthening an
earthenware casserole (red pottery) is to
brush it over with oil and bake it in the
oven. This will harden it against sudden
air currents. The older they are the tougher
they become.
SUNDRIES 239
a
Stoving '* and " Sweating *'
The words " stoving " and " sweating " are
used here to indicate cooking slowly over
gentle heat, so that the meat, fish or vege-
table is allowed to throw out the moisture
it contains and then the food cooks in its
own juice. Thus all the properties of the
food are preserved and a much better flavour
is obtained.
To Save Fuel
A haybox or fireless cooker should be used.
Food can also be cooked in covered tins or jars
placed in a pot and surrounded with boiling
water. Several tins may be placed in one
vessel, and thus a whole dinner can be
cooked on one gas ring or electric plate.
When cooking by gas the cook must
exercise her intelligence and not use the
oven for one dish. If the oven is needed,
arrange to cook all other dishes in it. A
little thought will show that there are
numerous methods of saving coal, wood,
gas, electricity and oil.
240 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
INVALID DISHES
Note. — Cream may be obtained by doctor's
order.
Peptonised Milk
To 1 pint of milk add J pint of water.
Heat to a temperature of 140° F. (60° C),
add 2 teaspoonfuls of pancreatic liquor and
20 grs, of bicarbonate of soda ; mix this
well. Place in warm water to keep up the
temperature for 1\ hour, then boil 212° F.
and use as ordinary milk.
Peptonising tablets are obtainable at
chemists for this preparation.
Peptonised Foods
Can be prepared by adding an equal
amount of the peptonised milk to stock or
beef-tea and soups. Jellies can be made
in a similar manner, preparing them as
would be done in the ordinary way.
Steamed Meat or Fish
Should always be sealed up by dipping
in boiling water before being placed in the
steamer. The time for steaming is equal to
that of boiling, except for the necessary
time to concentrate the steam in the steamer.
SUNDRIES 241
Fish
Place the fillets of fish in a greased dish,
season lightly, add a few drops of lemon
juice and a little butter on each fillet, and
poach very carefully without adding any
liquor.
Grilled Fish
Season the fillets of fish, pass through
flour, shake well and baste with oil, then
grill. The grill should be very hot and clean,
otherwise the fish sticks ; or the fillet may be
placed in a frying-pan with a little clarified
fat or oil and very slowly fried, then drained.
This is equal to grilling, and much easier.
Fish Pudding
Materials. — 1 fillet of whiting, J gill of
white sauce (see p. 41), 1 tablespoonful of
cream, the white of an egg.
Method. — Pound the whiting, add the
white sauce, season with salt and pass
through a sieve, adding the cream and the
white of egg loosely whipped. Put in a
buttered mould and place this in boiling
water reaching to within three-quarter the
height of the mould, and poach very care-
fully. Turn out and serve with the following
sauce : —
i6
242 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
Materials. — A few drops of lemon juice,
1 tablespoonful of cream.
Method. — Boil the bones of the whiting
with a little water and lemon juice. When
done (about 10 minutes), strain with pressure
and reduce the liquid till it forms a jelly.
Add the cream, season if necessary, and pour
over the pudding.
Poached Fillets of Chicken
Lift the fillets, remove the sinews of
the flesh, place in a greased saucepan,
season very lightly with salt, place the
fillets in it and cover with greased paper.
Let " sweat " very slowly for 5 minutes
each side. Or season with salt, brush over
with beaten egg and pass through bread-
crumbs, flatten, then fry in oil to a golden
colour (10 minutes). Drain before serving.
Quenelles
Pound the fillet of chicken with salt in a
mortar, pass through sieve, place in ice in
a basin, and work in twice the amount of
cream, a little at a time ; each time make
sure that the mixture is quite smooth
before adding the next spoonful. Shape
SUNDRIES 243
with the spoon, or in a greased quenelle
mould, and poach (do not boil) for 12 to
15 minutes.
Creams
After the fillet has been poached, pound in
a mortar, add the liquid and, if necessary,
a little reduced chicken jelly. Mix with
an equal quantity of loosely whipped cream
and place in a glass dish or in a mould to set.
Souffle
1. Prepare as for quenelles. Add half of
a loosely whipped white of egg and poach
as a pudding very slowly.
2. Pound a cooked fillet, add ^ gill of
white sauce or cream, 1 yolk of egg and a
whipped white. Mix lightly. Place in a
buttered soufil6 dish and bake in the oven,
placed in a water bath.
Sweetbread
Soak in water and salt for 12 hours,
drain and parboil for 10 minutes, then re-
fresh and place under press to cool. Place
with chicken stock on the fire and poach
till tender. Serve with the following sauce :
244 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
1 yolk of egg, and 1 tablespoonful of cream
and 1 of the stock in which the sweet-
bread was cooked. Season to taste and
cook like a custard. A few drops of lemon
juice are to be added.
Fried Sweetbread
Cut the sweetbread into slices (after par-
boiling and pressing) | inch thick. Season,
brush over with egg and pass through the
breadcrumbs. Fry in oil.
Tripe
Stew the tripe till quite tender, then
prepare sauce as for sweetbread and place
the tripe in it. Cream could be omitted
and milk used instead.
Farinaceous Food
This should be cooked for at least 1 hour,
and only fine flour used.
Boiled Egg
Boil the water, put the egg in, then place
on the side of the stove with the lid on for
<
SUNDRIES 245
5 minutes. This leaves the white like a
jelly.
Ox Cheek Broth
Take one slice of ox cheek, wash well,
place in a saucepan covered with water
and simmer for 4 hours. Strain. This
sets to a jelly. Any cereal can be added,
such as rice or barley, cooked thoroughly
and then strained.
Bouilli
Ox cheek stewed for hours until it falls
to shreds, pounded in a mortar, and passed
through a sieve. The liquor added makes a
pure meat jelly.
Beef-Tea^ Mutton-Tea, Veal-Tea, Chicken-
Tea, etc.
Half a pound of flesh without fat or gristle,
shredded or pounded, mixed with | pint
of water and a few^ grains of salt. Allow
to stand for 1 hour, then place on the fire
and stir with a fork until milky. Strain
through strainer and press all the juice out.
Allow to stand, remove all fat, season to
taste, and when serving, stir so as to use the
246 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
sediment, which is the only food in the
tea.
POCKET LUNCHES
Pies, cutlets, rissoles, pasties, sandwiches,
brissoles, sausages, baked beans, nuts, buns
and cake are suitable for pocket lunches.
Baked Beans
Soak and steam the beans, then lightly
grease with oil, and bake in the oven until
crisp. Sprinkle with salt. Leave until
cold ; they will then eat crisp like nuts.
Picnic Roll
Make a Ij oz. round of bread dough, lay
in the centre a mixture of any meat or fish
preparation, gather the edges together and
shape into a ball. Turn over on to a baking-
sheet, allow the dough to rise, then bake in
a hot oven, like a roll or bun, or use pastry
instead of bread dough.
Potted Rice and Meat for Sandwiches
Materials. — 4 oz. meat, 4 oz. rice, a little
stock, salt to taste, pepper and a pinch of
spice, 2 oz. fat.
SUNDRIES 247
Method. — Boil the meat and rice in a
little stock, season with salt, pepper and
a pinch of spice. Pass through a mincer
several times until thoroughly fine, then
add the fat, pass through a sieve and use
for sandwiches.
Cheese, Tomato and Nut Sandwiches
Materials. — 1 oz. nut butter or other fat,
2 oz. grated cheese, 2 oz. grated nuts, | lb.
tomatoes, a little pepper.
Method. — Cut the tomatoes in four and
cook till tender, then pass through a sieve.
Next stir over a fire till thick, let cool, and
mix with the other ingredients. Season by
adding a little paprika pepper, and make
sandwiches with the mixture. This mixture
also makes a very nice little savoury.
INDEX
Apple charlotte, 197.
— suet pudding, 187.
Apricot and carrot jam, 228.
Artichoke cake, 154.
— fritters, 154.
Artichokes, 153.
Barley, 120.
— broth, 40.
Batter, frying (without egg),
234.
Beans, baked, 246.
— Haricot, 119, 125, 126,
159.
Beef (bully), stew, 98.
— tea, 245.
Beetroot jam, 227.
— stewed, 158.
Bercy sauce, 45.
Biscuit meal, 235.
Bone stock, 17.
BouilH, 245.
Bread dough galette, 187.
— jelly, 189.
— maize and potato, 223.
— panada, 235.
— pea, 220.
— potato, 220.
— sauce, 42.
(imitation), 42.
— the use of stale, 234.
Bream (baked), with devilled
mock butter, 75.
— golden, 73.
— (roast), with tomato sauce,
74.
Brown vegetable sauce or
gravy, 22.
Buck rarebit, 210.
Bully beef stew, 98.
Butter, 235.
Cabbage, 161.
— and onion soup, 27.
— and potato soup, 29.
— creamed, 161.
— etc., stalks for pickling, 237.
— stew and liver dumplings,
104.
— (stoved), and rice, 131.
— (stuffed), 159.
Caramel pudding, 184.
Carbohydrates, 6.
Carrot tops, 157,
Carrots, 155.
Casserole, to toughen a, 238.
Cauliflower, 154.
— au gratin, 155.
Celery, 150.
— flavouring, 237.
— soup, 32.
Cereals, 13.
— method of cooking, 115.
Chasseur sauce, 44.
Cheese, 11.
— rind, 237.
— tomato and nut sandwiches,
247.
Chicken, poached fillets of,
242.
— tea, 245.
Christmas pudding, war, 2cxd.
249
250
INDEX
Clear (vegetable) soup, 22
Coating batter, to make, 233.
Cobbler's pie, 95.
Coco-butter, 235.
to clarify, 236.
Corn-flour cheese mixture
for rarebit, 124.
Crab, creamed, 78.
Cucumber and egg^ 207.
Curried pulse, 134.
Curry sauce, 41.
Custard sauce, 46.
Devil sauce, 45.
Dripping, 235.
Drop scones, 222.
Dutch herring salad, 69.
Eel soup, 36.
Eels with mock cream sauce,
76.
— (Russian style), yy.
Egg aurora, 206.
— boiled, 245.
— cress and haricot bean
salad, 167.
— how to poach an, 211.
— turnovers, 205.
Eggs, 10.
— dried, 205, 238.
— (poached), jardiniere, 205.
with peas puree baked,
208.
' — poulette, 209.
— (scrambled), with bread
sauce, 209.
Farinaceous food, 244.
Farmers' soup, 25.
Fat, clarified, 14.
— foods, 7.
— etc., from bones, 233.
Fats, 6, 234.
Fish, 9.
— (baked), 58.
— baked fillet of (in batter), 60.
Fish cakes (baked), 57.
— cream soup, 39.
— grilled, 241.
— in batter, 83.
— methods of cooking, 51.
— mock turtle soup, 37.
— (pan), 58.
— pie, 53-
— pudding, 241.
— sauce, 46.
— sausages, 56.
— soup, 35.
— — (mock bouillabaisse), 36.
— steamed, 59.
— stock, 20.
— stuffings, 56.
Frying batter without egg^
234.
Fuel, to save, 239.
Gelatine, etc., from bones, 233.
Ginger cake, 216.
— nuts, 216.
Golden bream, 73.
Gravy (vegetable), 22.
Grey mullet, 63.
Ground rice and coco-nut
pudding, 184.
Gurnet (filleted), and rice
Portugaise, 71.
Halibut Portugaise, 62.
Haricot beans, 119.
and rice biscuits, 224.
and rice pastry, 182.
— bean pie, 126.
stew, 125.
— paste, 181.
— stew, 159.
Herring fillets with vegetables,
70.
— olives (baked), 67.
ragout, 65.
with rice, 66.
— paupiettes of, and tomato
sauce, 68.
INDEX
251
Herring salad (Dutch), 69.
Herrings (filleted), and rice, 64.
— (soused), 65, 68.
Hot potato cake, 218.
Imitation bread sauce, 42.
Invalid dishes, 240-245.
Italian sauce, 44.
Jacket potatoes, 164.
Kipper salad, 79.
Lard, 235.
Leek and potato soup, 34.
Leeks (stoved), 151.
Lentil stew, 126.
Lentils and rice balls, 133.
— creamed, 133.
— (red), 119.
Liver dumplings and cabbage
stew, 104.
— (fried), and onions with
rice or polenta, 103.
Lobster (creamed), 78.
Lyonnaise sauce, 43.
Macaroni croquettes and peas,
166.
— (home-made), 134.
— how to cook, 135.
— with tomatoes, 138.
Mackerel and rice, 61.
— (soused), 65.
Maize and apple pudding
(baked), 198.
— and cheese rissoles, 124.
— and cheese savoury, 125.
— and egg savoury, 210.
— and marmalade charlotte,
194.
— and potato bread, 223.
— and potato cakes, 219.
— batter pudding, 185.
— crumbs, 231.
— jam roll, 189.
Maize pancakes, 188.
— paste, 182.
— roll, savoury, 109.
— sandwich cake, 217.
— (savoury), and vegetable
pudding, 137.
— woodcock, 2 ID.
Margarine, 235.
Marmalade, 229.
Marrow au gratin, 149.
— (baked), and egg, 207.
— (baked stuffed), 148.
— soup, 31.
— (stuffed), 102.
— (vegetable), 149.
— (vegetable), and cereal
salad, 167.
Mayonnaise sauce without
eggs, 47.
without oil, 48.
Meat, 10.
— and maize cutlet, 100.
— and potato flan, 96.
— gravy (stoved), 23.
— loaves and stewed beet-
root, 105.
— methods of cooking, 87.
— rolls or olives with peas,
107.
— salad, 109.
Melted butter sauce, 46.
Mince meat, 199.
Minerals, 6, 7.
Minestroni, 28.
Mixed salad, 168.
Mock duck and apple sauce,
108.
Monkeys, 185.
Mornay sauce, 45.
Mulligatawny soup, 30.
Mussels and rice, 79.
Mutton and potato ragout, 104.
— broth, 99.
— stuffed breast of, with barley,
99.
— tea, 245.
252
INDEX
Nouilles, 134, 135.
Nut and haricot pie, 140.
— roll, 139.
Nuts, II.
Oaten savoury, 129.
Oatmeal canelons, 128.
— pudding (baked), 129.
— sausages, 127.
with stock meat, 128.
O'Connor soup, 32.
Oil, 14,235.
Omelette with dried eggs, 206.
Onion soup, 26.
Onions, stuffed, 152.
Orange maize pudding, 194.
— pudding, 198.
Ox cheek and haricot pie, loi.
broth, 245.
(fried), 107.
fritters, 107.
Pan fish, 58.
Parsnip sauce (sweet), 47.
Parsnips, 151.
Paste for fruit tartlets, 179.
— haricot, 181,
Pastry, 175.
Patties, 95.
Paupiettes of herring and
tomato sauce, 68.
Pea bread, 220.
Pea-pod soup, 33.
Peas, 119.
— stew, 126.
Peptonised foods, 240.
— milk, 240.
Perch, how to cook, 72.
Pickle liquid, to use up, 236.
Picnic roll, 246.
Pie crust with ground rice,
181.
with potato, 181.
Pie paste (without fat), 180.
Pilaw, no.
Poached eggs jardiniere, 205.
Poached eggs with peas pur^e
baked, 208.
Pocket lunches, 246.
Polenta, 121.
— with potatoes, 122.
Pot-au-feu made with ox
cheek, 25.
Potato and apple cheese cake,
178.
— and barley pudding
(savoury), 136.
— and cheese pudding, 165.
— and jam rings, 217.
— and macaroni pudding, 136.
— and maize pudding, 192,
193.
— and tapioca paste for
savoury pies, 179.
— bread, 220.
— buns, 221.
— cake, 215.
(hot), 218.
— cheese, 230.
en casserole, 162.
— gateau, 190.
— gnocchi, 137.
and raisin flan, 200.
— lemon pudding, 201.
— omelet, 161.
— pancakes with bacon, 97.
— pudding, 196.
— rock cakes, 218.
— rocks, 191.
— rolls, 221.
— salad, 165.
— sandwich, 215.
— scones, 191, 222.
— shortbread, 192.
— souffle pudding, 196.
— stew and bacon, 97.
— (stuffed baked), 162.
— timbale of, 164.
— toast, 224.
— (tripe style), 163.
Potatoes, bakers', 163.
— jacket, 164.
INDEX
253
Potted rice and meat for sand-
wiches, 246.
Proteid, 5.
Protein foods, 6.
Puddings, 175.
Pulse (curried), 134.
— food, method of cooking,
117.
Pulses, 12.
Pur^e, vegetable, 29.
Purees, 9, 153.
Quenelles of chicken, 242.
— of rabbit, 93.
Rabbit and potato ragout, 104.
— cutlets of, 93.
— (fillets of), with white sauce,
en casserole, 92.
— quenelles of, 93.
— soup, 95.
— stewed, 94.
Rarebit, 123.
Ravioli, 140.
Red currant jelly (imitation),
228.
Red lentils, 119.
Rhubarb and rice cakes, 186.
Rice, 120.
— (baked), and lentils, I2i.
— balls, 132.
and lentils, 133.
— savoury, 121.
with meat or fish, loi.
Risotto, 138.
Robert sauce, 45.
Sago jelly, 195.
Salmon (baked), 80
— cakes, 82.
— (creamed), 78. '
— flamande, 63.
— how to use a tin of, 80.
— salad, 82.
— sandwiches, 83.
— scalloped, 81.
Salsify, 156.
— and barley soup, 31.
— Yorkshire pudding, 156.
Sauce without fat, 41, 238.
Sauces —
bercy, 45.
bread, 42.
curry, 41.
custard, 46.
devil, 45.
fish, 46.
imitation bread, 42.
Italian, 44.
lyonnaise, 43.
mayonnaise, without eggs,
47;
— without oil, 48.
melted butter, 46.
mornay, 45.
parsnip (sweet), 47.
Robert, 45.
tomato, 43.
white, 41.
Sausage, fresh meat, 91.
— rolls, 91.
Sausages, fish, 56.
— made with cooked meat,
91.
— oatmeal, 127, 128.
— (vegetable), with pulse or
nuts, 122.
Savoury maize and vegetable
pudding, 137.
roll, 109.
— potato and barley pudding,
136.
— rice with meat or fish,
lOI.
— spice, 232.
Scarlet runners, 158.
Scones, drop, 222.
— potato, 222.
Scrambled eggs with bread
sauce, 209.
Semolina cheese cakes, 193.
Sheep's trotters, 106.
254
INDEX
Short paste, 183.
Sole (filleted), with cucumber,
Soups —
barley broth, 40.
cabbage and onion, 27.
— and potato, 29.
celery, 32.
eel, 36.
farmers', 25.
fish, 35.
— cream, 39.
— (mock bouillabaisse),
36.
— (mock turtle), 37.
leek and potato, 34.
marrow, 31.
minestroni, 28.
mulligatawny, 30.
O'Connor, 32.
onion, 26.
pea-pod, 33.
pot-au-feu, made with ox
cheek, 25.
rabbit, 95.
salsify and barley, 31.
vegetable puree, 29.
Soups, 8, 17.
Spiced sauce, 232.
Spinach, creamed, 157.
Sprouts, 151.
Starch foods, 7.
Steaming, 240.
Stock, 8.
— (bone), 17.
— (fish), 20.
— meat and rice croquettes,
no.
— (vegetable), 20.
" Stoving," 239.
Suet crust, 183.
Sugar in vegetables, 7.
"Sweating," 14, 239.
Sweetbread, 243.
Sweetbread, fried, 244.
Sweets, 175.
Tapioca and potato paste, 179.
Timbale fiUing, 126.
— of potatoes, 164.
Timbales, 126.
Tomato sauce, 43.
Tripe, 244.
Turnip tops, 157.
Turnips, 155.
Turn overs, 219.
Veal and potato ragout, 104.
— tea, 245.
Vegetable and haricot bean
pie, 171.
— cutlets, 169.
with cereals, 171.
with ^g%^ 170.
with nuts, 171.
with pulse, 170.
— gravy, 22.
— marrow, 149.
and cereal salad, 167.
— pie, 130.
— pur^e, 29.
— sauce or gravy (brown), 22.
— sausages with pulse and
nuts, 122.
— soup (clear), 22.
— stock, 20.
Vegetables, conservative
method of cooking, 145.
War Christmas pudding, 200.
Water in foods, 7.
White sauce, 41.
Whiting au gratin, 61.
— (baked filleted), with pota-
toes, 72.
Yorkshire pudding with fruit,
186.
PRINTED BY MORRISON AND GIBB LTD., EDINBURGH
"DAILY MAIL"
WAR RECIPES
BY
Mrs. C. S. peel
This book is published in compliance with
the demand of Readers of the Daily fEMail
for a Cookery Book compiled from Recipes
issued by the Food Bureau. The Recipes
are arranged to suit present conditions.
Readers requiring information should apply
through the " Daily Mail Food Bureau."
CONTENTS
Stocks and Soups — Sauces, Salad Dressings,
AND Batters — Fish — Eggs — Some Dishes with
A Little Meat — Meatless Dishes — Puddings
AND Pastry — Home-made Cheese and Butter
Substitutes — Some War Jams and Other
Preserves.
Price, 1/6.
LONDON
CONSTABLE £5? COMPANY LTD.
1918
WAR RATION
COOKERY
(THE EAT-LESS-MEAT BOOK)
By Mrs. C. S. PEEL
Crown 8vo, 3/6 net
{Third Edition Revised to meet present conditions)
Globe. — " The public has a multitude of counsellors eager
to teach it how to walk circumspectly amid the perils of food
shortage, but it will accept the collection of recipes in the
* Eat-Less-Meat Book' as official, for it is the work of Mrs.
C. S. Peel, and embodies the ideals with which she is
enlightening housewives in her lectures up and down the
country."
Daily Telegraph. — " Mrs. Peel is universally recognised
as the soundest and most sensible authority upon middle-
class housekeeping ; she knows her subject inside out, she
has no fads, and she writes with great vivacity and verve.
She is just the person whose advice the small householder
needs at the present time, and this practical and business-
like handbook is nothing less than a public service of the
highest quality. It ought to be on every kitchen shelf
throughout the length and breadth of the country. . . .
Indeed, the whole volume is invaluable, and we commend
it without reserve to every class of the loyal-hearted public."
Land and Water. — " Mrs. Peel's book is eminently
practical. It puts in an intelligible way the problem of
war-ration housekeeping."
Spectator. — "The book gives excellent hints as to the
cooking of our war-time rations. In addition to a quantity
of recipes, Mrs. Peel has advice to give on food values."
JOHN LANE, THE BODLEY HEAD, VIGO ST., W. i
THE LABOUR SAVING
HOUSE
By Mrs. C. S. PEEL
With numerous Illustrations
Second Edition. Crown Svo, 3/6 net
This book, by the author of "War Ration Cookery,''
has come at the right moment, since the " Servant
Problem" becomes more acute. Mrs. Peel believes
that " The greatest labour saving apparatus we possess
is the Brain," and gives many examples to illustrate the
point. A few most valuable chapters deal with the
uses of gas and electricity for saving labour and,
incidentally, expense.
Tatler. — " Mrs. Peel talks some sound common sense
in her most interesting and instructive book."
Times. — "A practical guide like this, by a w^ll-known
authority on domestic economy, with its numerous
fully explained photographs, is sure to be helpful."
Lady. — '' Mrs. Peel's hints are plentiful and practical.''
Outlook. — "This book, marked as it is by the
soundest common sense, is full of invaluable suggestions
for lessening the housewife's labours."
JOHN LANE, THE BODLEY HEAD, VIGO ST , W. i
17
THE HAT SHOP
A NOVEL
By Mrs. C. S. PEEL
Crown 8vo, 6/- and 1/9 net
Pall Mall Gazette, — " Mrs. Peel is to be sincerely con-
gratulated on her vivid picture of one side of the world of
fashion and of the cost to those who serve it."
Daily Citizen. — " Mrs. Peel has written a most delightful
novel. . . . All her people live and have the air of real men
and women. It is an ideal book for a leisure hour."
fei Standard. — " Out of an atmosphere of fur and feathers
— themselves things of blood — the author brings us to face
the fight of life and the last asylum of death."
Morning Post. — "The book is interesting . . . and
written with . . . first-hand knowledge."
Sunday Times. — " The bright and the shady side of
feminine life in London are both exhibited in ' The Hat
Shop.' Mrs. Peel's pages are closely observed and con-
vincingly drawn "
MRS. BARNET-ROBES
A NOVEL
By Mrs. C. S. PEEL
Crown 8vo, 6/-
Outlook. — " With insight and tenderness and courage,
Mrs. Peel has written one of the most charming and at the
same time most living of stories. ... It is stamped with truth
and is very beautifully told."
Globe. — " Mrs. Peel has handled a prolific theme in a
masterly manner."
Pall Mall Gazette. — Mrs. Peel has written a worthy suc-
cessor to ' The Hat Shop,' more imaginative and showing
some deeper insight."
JOHN LANE, THE BODLEY HEAD, VIGO ST., W. i
A iMRS. JONES
A NOVEL
Bv Mrs. C. S. PEEL
Crown 8vo, 6 -
Daily Telegraph, — *' The description of a Fashion Paper's office,
and its Jewish administration, is . . . vivid, real, and humorous.
The book goes meiTily forward, the interest of the reader sustained
to the finish."
Sketch, — " Oh, but Mrs. Peel has the touch ! It is impossible
to help loving Mrs. Jones. . . . Scarcely a woman will read Dot
without feeling her many a time as an expre€sion of herself. . , .
To complete Mrs. Peel's triumph she has the very nicest dash of
feminine wit."
Fuld, — ** Warm s}Tnpathy and a large knowledge . . . carried by
clean ideals, and with the interest sustained from the first to the last
page, the story of Mrs. Jones is sure to give pleasure even to the
most fastidious readers of novels."
Westminster Gazette. — " A perfectly delightful book. Mrs. iPeel
has most wisely and kindly kept the war out of it ... it is a rest,
a comfort, and a distraction."
Evenifig News. — "A slice of life. . . . Human, tender. . . .
The sense of humour is acute."
Ti?jus, — *'To write about a girl of to-day to whom nothing in
particular happens in such a manner that the reader must follow
her stor)' attentively is as difficult as to make a whiting appetising ;
but this feat Mrs. C. S. Peel accomplishes in ' A Mrs. Jones.' "
Bystander. — ** An entertaining piece of work."
BirmingJiam Daily Post. — "The characterisation is uniformly
excellent, exceedingly clever, unusually s}*mpathetic, easy and
confident style . . . quietly humorous phrase . . , power carefully
and wisely restrained in scenes of pathos."
Englishivoman. — ** Beautifully told. An excellent and witty
stor\'-teller . . . sounder in her psychology than is usually the case."
Punch. — Humour . . . character . . . charm . , . The book
abounds in them all."
Outlook. — ** This intensely clever and human-hearted story. . . .
Fresh, genuine, so impeccably true to nature. A ver}' fine novel
indeed."
Country Life. — "Almost lovable creature. ... A very real
heroine. . . . Making us ask ourselves how many such we may
have known and misjudged."
JOHN LANE, THE BODLEY HEAD, VIGO ST., W. i
DAINTY DISHES FOR CAMP y HOME.
By R. PiAZZANi. Crown 8vo, 6d. net.
Athenccwn, — ''Some originality and variety characterise the
recipes in this little book. Soldiers will welcome the different
methods of cooking * bully beef.' There are other dishes besides,
and the camps will give Mr. Piazzani's recipes a welcome. The
book should be equally useful in the home."
PATRIOTISM AND PLENTY.
A Cook Book for War Time and All Time. By the
Hon. Mrs. Lionel Guest. Crown 8vo, paper
covers, 1/- net.
Guardia7t. — *' Discussed in a manner altogether refreshing."
Athenaum, — **Mrs. Guest has done useful work, and will be
appreciated by many harassed housewives and others."
SOUP, OYSTERS, AND SURPRISES.
By the Hon. Mrs. Lionel Guest. Crown 8vo,
paper covers, 1/- net.
Mrs. Guest's little books on War Time Cookery have obtained
so wide a popularity that she has now added this one on Soups,
Oysters, Mussels, etc. In this book will be found recipes as original
as in her former volumes, and as before she embodies in it the best
and simplest of English, Canadian, and American cooking.
BREAD AND FANCY BREADS.
By the Hon. Mrs. Lionel Guest. Crown 8vo,
6d. net.
Evem7ig Standard. — ** ' Guest books' are almost essential nowa-
days if you want to be up to date in your war economy and war-time
knowledge of practical affairs."
JOHN LANE, THE BODLEY HEAD, VIGO ST., W. i
FLOURLESS PUDDINGS
AND THEIR SAUCES
By A COUNTRY RECTOR'S WIFE
6d. net
Evening Standard, — **I never would have imagined that in the
world there could be nearly lOO puddings constructed without flour,
but * A Country Rector's Wife' tells me in her book of recipes that
there are. Of course, some of them are apple puddings, which, at
the present price of fruit, are only food for millionaires, but she
gives a splendid collection of cornflour, maize meal, and oatmeal
puddings, with all sorts of odd and unexpected flavourings to them.
I think that supper in the country rectory must be a delightful meal,
when maize and date pudding, oats pudding or lemon cornflour
figure on the menu. "
Publisher's Circular. — ** ' Flourless Puddings and their Sauces,'
by A Country Rector's Wife, tells its own tale by its title, and will
prove its value by the eating of the puddings. Somebody some day
will pick up a copy at a second-hand bookstall and say, * Ah ! that
was published in the third year of the Great War, when the Germans
tried to starve Britain.' "
Irish Independent. — *' About lOO recipes are given for making
flourless puddings and their sauces in this useful booklet. Puddings
baked and boiled ; puddings to be served hot and cold ; all are
dealt with, and directions given that can be easily followed by the
average housewife."
Manchester Guardian. — * * This book has a particular appeal at
the present time. It suggests that the housewife — and certainly the
family — may get a good deal of fun out of these experiments, with
limitations."
Nursing Times. — ** 'Flourless Puddings' is a very useful book
at the present time."
JOHN LANE, THE BODLEY HEAD, VIGO ST., \V. i
A TIMELY PUBLICATION
THE
COW AND MILK BOOK
BY
The Hon. Mrs. LIONEL GUEST
Crown 8vo, Paper Boards, 1/. net
Graphic. — " This is a strong practical plea for the proper
treatment of Cattle so as to ensure pure milk. A very handy
little book."
Field. — " The book will be exceedingly useful to beginners,
and may be recommended especially to the attention of the
new school of Lady Farmers."
Manchester Guardian, — " Mrs. Guest's informing book."
Daily Graphic. — "A timely publication. Indeed, Mrs.
Guest is so well informed in her subject that her book may
be commended to Farmers as well as to Dairy Amateurs."
Lancet — " A thoroughly useful guide dealing with the cow
in health and disease, the handling of milk, and the making
of butter and cheese."
JOHN LANE, THE BODLEY HEAD, VIGO ST., W. i
TWO EXCELLENT SERIES
A Sblection from
THE COUNTRY HANDBOOKS SERIES
Illustrated. Crown 8vo, cloth, 3/- net
THE STILL ROOM. By Mr. Charles Roundell and Harry
Roberts.
THE LITTLE FARM. By " Home Counties."
THE SMALL HOLDING. By F. E. Green.
A Selection from
HANDBOOKS of PRACTICAL GARDENING SERIES
Illustrated. Crown 8vo, 2/6 net
THE BOOK OF FRUIT BOTTLING. By Edith Bradley
and May Crooke.
THE BOOK OF ASPARAGUS. With sections also on Celery,
Salsify, Scorzonera, and Seakale. By Char^les Ilott, F.R. H.S.,
Lecturer on Horticulture to the Cornwall County Council. To-
gether with a chapter on their cooking and preparation for the
table by the Editor.
THE BOOK OF THE GRAPE. By H. W. Ward, F.R.H.S.,
for 25 years Head Gardener at Longford Castle, author of ' ' My
Grardener."
THE BOOK OF THE APPLE. By H. H. Thomas, Assistant
Editor of "The Garden," late of the Royal Gardens, Windsor.
Together with chapters by the Editor on the History and Cooking
of the Apple, and the Preparation of Cider.
THE BOOK OF VEGETABLES. By G. Wythes, V.M.H.,
Head Gardener to the Duke of Northumberland. With chapters
by the Editor on the History and Cookery of Vegetables.
THE BOOK OF THE STRAWBERRY. With chapters on
the Raspberry, Blackberry, Loganberry, W^ineberry, and Allied
Fruits. By Edwin Beckett, F.R.H.S., Head Gardener at
Aldenham House.
THE BOOK OF PEARS AND PLUMS. By the Rev. E.
Bartrum, D.D.
THE BOOK OF THE HONEY BEE. By Charles Harrison.
THE BOOK OF GARDEN PESTS AND PLANT DISEASES.
By R. Hooper Pearson, Assistant-Editor of "The Gardener's
Chronicle." A concise account of the various insect pests and
fungus diseases that infest garden plants, with full instructions for
combating them in the hght of modem knowledge.
JOHN LANE, THE BODLEY HEAD, VIGO ST., W. i
BOSTON PUBLIC LIBRARY
jllilliillillllillllli
3 9999 06707 006 8
Boston Public Library
Central Library, Copley Square
Division of
Reference and Research Services
The Date
Due
Card in the pocket
indi-
cates the
date
on or before which
this
book should be returned to the Library.
Please do
not
remove cards from
this
pocket.
\
Live Music Archive
Librivox Free Audio
Metropolitan Museum
Cleveland Museum of Art
Internet Arcade
Console Living Room
Open Library
American Libraries
TV News
Understanding 9/11